I have a 1989 D4H

[James2019]

Thanks

 

[ttazzman]

never used a jack on mine....used blocks under the frount blade and rear rippers (to raise n lower)......used blocks under frame also.....

for oil changes etc....i just drive it up on a long stack of wood 2 x 12s

 

[DMiller]

My loader will lift the front, just nothing in the back to raise it so use 20Ts in the rear to get that end off the grade.

 

[DMiller]

When end up like this have to raise it to get parts back on, it is great having Old Junk!! Another Blowout had to stop and fix!

Snakey bustards.

 

[James2019]

Have a question, My D4 won't start, clicks when I turn the ignition, can hear right behind me on my left side by battery click. But won't turn over, I have charged the batteries no effect, thinking might be solenoid? But not sure though I would ask around, see if there is something else I need to check. It has been starting good. Any idea's??

 

[DMiller]

First checks is Voltages at Battery/Starter, when just sitting and when turn the switch or hit the button, a Bad Cable or connection can do as much.

 

[James2019]

Batteries are 13 volt, how do you check volt at starter? pos. to ground?

 

[James2019]

Is there a way to jump it like the old days, with a screwdriver?

 

[DMiller]

Do the voltage checks FIRST, undervoltage from a bad cable, bad connection or a poor connection thru a solenoid can lead to a LOT of other problems. Volts go down AMPS Ramp UP to compensate to make the same level of power, AMPS are HEAT.

Voltmeter, Check POS Cable V at battery to Grd, last connection to go out to starter then check at hot post On Starter, needs to be Within .5v of Battery v at Starter. Next up one multimeter lead to POS cable at Batt other multimeter cable to Hot Post on starter, need to see that as a NO CHANGE "0" as if shows a voltage there is a problem Same for Negative Cable, should show NO voltage. Voltmeter check with someone getting the 'Click', first at Battery P-N should see Battery V if not feeding forward, SAME at Starter Hot Post to GRD If goes hard LOW V at Battery then the starter could be locked, If Remains at Battery at Both ends then find the 'Click' mechanism, if is a secondary solenoid will have Two Large Terminals, One Hot the other Not until engages, then BOTH should go hot, the other end of that output cable will be the small terminal at the Starter Motor Solenoid, it had better show hot of the at small relay shows hot or wire is broken corroded in two, damaged. The other possible is a NEUTRAL Lock Out Switch much as a clutch switch, you will need a schematic to find it.

Will need TWO people to do most of these tests, one at Multimeter one on switch.

 

[James2019]

Thanks, I'll see what I can find out.

 

[James2019]

Okay, just developed a new problem. If I raise my front end by the blade, Hydraulic Fluid spurts out by the back of hydraulic cylinder like a relief valve maybe? Looks like coming from under floor base?? Sound familiar to anyone??

 

[DMiller]

Have another issue. That should just hold pressure if trying to lift machine. Looked for cracked fitting or perforated hose.

 

[ttazzman]

there are a handfull of thru wall hydraulic fittings that most of the frount hydraulic hoses mate to right where your talking about

 

[James2019]

I could see it spray out from where the fittings are, will have to get someone to watch where it is coming out from, but it appears to be spraying around the back ot the engine as well, causing the engine compartment to smoke, guessing it is getting around the manifold.