hydralic cylinder gland removal

[rickw]

I have the adjustable spanner wrench pin type gland wrench. It is the black heavy duty type that takes the 3/4" square drive. It is heavy duty but I dont seem to be able to get much torque in it do to it wanting to jump out of pin holes? It dont lock at the hinge I dont think. Very cumbersome to use. Any suggestions? As heavy and thick as the tool is it seems like it will take way more torque than I can apply

 

[franklin2]

First thing to do is trick I picked up from someone on this board; Take a hammer and hit the end of the cylinder that is over the threaded portion of the gland evenly all the way around the cylinder. Don't hit it hard enough to dent it, but do hit it with some authority, go around several times. Then try your wrench again, I bet it comes right off.

I don't have a spanner, I have a homemade wrench. I torched out of 1/4 flat a large y looking piece, and drilled holes in the end of it. I built this to bolt to a 7.3 diesel waterpump pulley to hold it while I took another homemade wrench to break loose the radiator fan, which is threaded to the snoot of the waterpump.

Looking around for a way to take these glands loose, I took my homemade y and put one 1/4-20 bolt with a nut in just one of the holes. I stick it in the hole in the gland and let the rest of the y rub against the chrome cylinder rod. It has broke everyone of them loose so far, I have done 4 different cylinders on my Case 480c. But I do have to hit it with a hammer all the way around or they will not come loose.

 

[walkerv]

First thing to do is trick I picked up from someone on this board; Take a hammer and hit the end of the cylinder that is over the threaded portion of the gland evenly all the way around the cylinder. Don't hit it hard enough to dent it, but do hit it with some authority, go around several times. Then try your wrench again, I bet it comes right off.

I don't have a spanner, I have a homemade wrench. I torched out of 1/4 flat a large y looking piece, and drilled holes in the end of it. I built this to bolt to a 7.3 diesel waterpump pulley to hold it while I took another homemade wrench to break loose the radiator fan, which is threaded to the snoot of the waterpump.

Looking around for a way to take these glands loose, I took my homemade y and put one 1/4-20 bolt with a nut in just one of the holes. I stick it in the hole in the gland and let the rest of the y rub against the chrome cylinder rod. It has broke everyone of them loose so far, I have done 4 different cylinders on my Case 480c. But I do have to hit it with a hammer all the way around or they will not come loose.

Tip for ya on threaded fans a quick blip of an air chisel breaks them free as long as you dont turn it the wrong way also i usea very dull chisel to minimize damage i hate pissing with those things .... I just took to roughly 4 inch barrel size cylinders apart made a homade wrwnch like you messed it up though , barely got my big pipe wrench on there and started having assistant tap straight lines with a ball peen hammer while i sat on wrench after about 5 lines she broke free wasnt hitting it that hard either just enough to bust paint and put a very small mark on the barrel,

 

[franklin2]

started having assistant tap straight lines with a ball peen hammer while i sat on wrench after about 5 lines she broke free wasn't hitting it that hard either just enough to bust paint and put a very small mark on the barrel,

Hitting on the barrel in the thread area really works well to get them going. You can do it in two steps and it works just as well, you don't need pressure on it while you hit it.

 

[Tinkerer]

Rick ; The hinge on the gland wrench does not need to lock. It only needs to be tight enough to keep the pins the correct distance when you change the position on the gland. The pins will not jump / pop out of the gland if you are using the correct diameter pin for the holes. But if the holes in the gland are damaged you have a challenge to deal with. Peen around the barrel like previously described and it will come out. Avoid using a pipe wrench, don't even think about it. You will just create a bigger problem. If the pin holes are really nasty, take the gland to a machine shop and have 4 new pin holes drilled in it. Unless you can do it yourself in a drill press.

 

[Billrog]

Make sure the lock screw is removed.

 

[Delmer]

https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/hoist-piston-end-cap-removal-question.11396/

here's a thread describing peening and a pic in post #7.

Use a ratchet strap to keep the pins from pulling out.

If it's locktited, you'll need heat to soften the locktite.

 

[rickw]

Thanks for all the quick responses!! Billrog, I am aware of the set screws. I just re packed the same right side stabilizer cylinder. I took it in assembled. Tube had been hit pretty good and I could not get it to go. The bucket clyinder gland spun right out though. The one I am working on now is the dipper/crowd cylinder. What I like to do is pull the gland and rod, Take it to local hyrdalic shop along with my packing kit and have them assemble. The 2000 ft./lb on the end nut is beyond my capacity! That is if I can get gland loose. This is a ton of great info, Pouring rain here today. I will keep everybody posted

 

[NH575E]

I rebuilt a stabilizer I had had apart before and couldn't get the gland loose the second time. Took it to the hydraulic shop assuming they had the correct tools. They used a big pipe wrench with an 8 ft pipe and two guys. Next time I run into that I will spend my 80 bucks on a big pipe wrench.

 

[walkerv]

I rebuilt a stabilizer I had had apart before and couldn't get the gland loose the second time. Took it to the hydraulic shop assuming they had the correct tools. They used a big pipe wrench with an 8 ft pipe and two guys. Next time I run into that I will spend my 80 bucks on a big pipe wrench.

There is a reason why Tinker said dont use a pipe wrench i just used one to get 2 glands off but stuff can get ruined really easy doing that, on that note i said i was sitting on it but really i was just keeping light pressure on it while it was being peened i was in a hurry to check the barrel out incase i needed to send them out ,i barely left a jaw mark in my glands i will be rebuilding my diy gland wrench for reassmbly getting the holes rite this time .

 

[franklin2]

Sometimes you can't help putting buggers on things. A good sharp file and some time will usually bring it back in to usable shape.

I have been leaving all my cylinders on the machine, just pulling the guts out each time. I usually use a winch hooked to my pickup to pull them out, with a big stack of cardboard below the cylinder to catch it when it comes out.

I also have been doing all my own packing. Those nuts are terribly tight. I was able to get all of them loose except one, the boom cylinder. I actually twisted off a harbor freight 3/4 breaker bar trying to get it loose. I ended up going to a big truck garage, they had a big 1 inch drive impact wrench. I just held the cylinder rod with my hand and about 5 or 6 hits from their impact and it was loose.

I have had good success repairing the hoe cylinders and no leaks afterward. But one of my small steering cylinders was leaking pretty badly, got a kit for it, those small cylinders are harder to pack than the larger ones, and it still leaks. So it's going to be round 2 for that one. If I can't get it, I saw a complete cylinder on ebay for $70.

 

[rickw]

Well I tried all I could with what I had and could not get the gland off the 5" dia. Dipper cylinder. I ended up pulling the whole cylinder and taking it into hyd. shop. I had the kit just need them for the labor. Once it is done (hopefully today) I will put it back in and start on the loader. They are much smaller and hopefully much easier to disassemble.

 

[rickw]

Loader tilt cylinder glands would not break free for me either. I got them back and they had to heat them and use a pipe wrench! I will be putting them back on and pulling loader hoist cylinders.

 

[rickw]

I pulled loader hoist cylinders and both swing cylinders yesterday. All 4 glands came loose with no problem! Looks like my luck is changing. That is all of the cylinders on the machine repacked or replaced. We had to replace the boom cylinder last year do to the cap weld kept cracking. It had a crumby weld on it when we bought machine and started leaking. We had it rewelded. It leaked again a year later, rewelded it again to get through the summer then replaced the cylinder.