How to install final drive!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?

[heymccall]

First, flap wheel polish both the chassis hole and the companion area of the gearbox assembly.

Secondly, how are you lifting, balancing, installing the assy? The idea is to present it to the chassis as square as possible. Once at the bore, you need to square it as you set it. A lever is needed, whether a long pipe wrench on gear, or anything else that will help you rock it in, as opposed to pulling it in.
The fact that you said it came out tough says that you may need to remove material in, rather than polish, the chassis hole. Slip fit is ideal, but, certainly not necessary. You can get a better idea of where to remove more material by looking at the mating scars when you pry it out again.

 

[jimpad]

Success. It looks like when the drive is pulled up tight there's a 0.090" gap ... confirmed by looking at other side, I was thinking it would pull up tight. Does anyone know if I have to bleed anything before firing it up?

 

[jimpad]

I spent a lot of time cleaning (no pressure washer), plugged holes and hoses with paper towels.

 

[heymccall]

Nope. It is good practice to not work the replaced part until it has been operated slowly in each direction long enough to ensure that it has received oil. 30 seconds each way, engine idling, is sufficient. The verify hydraulic oil level, and lack leaks.

 

[jimpad]

Really appreciate ya'lls help.

 

[Tones]

When you start the engine the charge pump on that system should send enough oil to the motor to lubricate the hydraulic motor. In future fill the hydraulic motor with oil before refitting it.

 

[jimpad]

Drive running smoothly, no leaks, track on and the friggen tension cylinder won't take any grease. Took the fitting out and it lets grease through it but something in the cylinder is frozen or blocking the grease. Track back off, idler off, tensioner next to woodstove for the night.