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How to check codes and what would defuel a volvo 210 2008

funwithfuel

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That falls in line with what Paul described. The display should have shown engine failure while the red central warning was flashing. You should be able to enter service mode prior to starting. Observe both fuel pressures while it's running when you get it running again. Also, if possible, drain some fuel from the tank into a clear jug, let it settle and see what you got.
 

BigWrench55

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It seems that you have algae in your fuel. And that could be the problem. Your low pressure fuel system isn't building enough pressure and supply to satisfy the high pressure system and then it triggers a code, then derates the engine. You possibly are on your way to fixing the problem. I don't have any advice for what to do about algae. That isn't a problem hear in Texas. I have only seen it from auction machines and a machine that has sat for a long time.
 

bigrich954rr

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oregon
Well it was an auction machine then the guy that bought it ended up getting sick and not using it for a year. When I bought it I put in a bottle of diesel cleaned bio formula Ran it for a few tankfuls and when my filters came in planned on replacing them. Slowly changing all filters and system fluids to start fresh.

I just find it weird that it would make it through the first filter the water separator and then plug up the second.

I’m hoping this fixes it didn’t know algae would be blackish and it’s not a a lot on the surface of the filter
 

bigrich954rr

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3BDDFAD5-A332-419F-9AE3-D77A78B2AD63.jpeg Well replaced both filters didn’t fix the issue. I only have a few seconds before it goes In limp mode with the beeping red turn engine off that take up whole screen. 529D425E-1227-418F-B476-DC1298482701.jpeg
 

bigrich954rr

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Also the water Separator fuel filter when I cut it open it looked pretty good.

The pics I took in the above post was 5-10 second after starting on idle
 

BigWrench55

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Your low pressure system is good but the high pressure system is to low. This is where things get complicated. you could have injectors failing and returning to much fuel, you can have a failed high pressure pump, or a failed relief valve on the common rail. Or a faulty sensor. The problem can be isolated but this is where tech tool and those specialized fittings come into play. Unfortunately most mechanics these days don't understand the system and would have you change parts until it runs or have you replace the whole system. If you have a dealer come out and check it ask questions. How do you know it's my injectors, relief valve, sensor, high pressure pumps, or common rail. A good mechanic will have no problem explaining how he found the problem. I personally like to explain the failure and how the system works and how I determined the problem. I think it' gives the customer confidence in making a decision.
 

funwithfuel

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Agree 100% with Paul on this. In my experience, it has almost always been an injector allowing too much return. Not to say other components could not have failed, it's just unlikely.
 

bigrich954rr

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O man I’ve been trying to track down a mobile Mechanic. Know of any with in 200 miles of 97801?

kinda in a time crunch this area got hit in a massive flood which was the reason I brought the Volvo I lost everything else I had.

would it be worth while to have a cat mech come look at it ?

I have some tools for working on Cummins 6.7. I can do limited high pressure testing.

Can you give me some ideas what to try ?

if you want I can call you and pay for for your advise to get me going in a Direction
 

BigWrench55

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The problem is that all of the return lines for the injectors, common rail, and fuel control valve meet together in one spot on the head. That is why special fittings are needed so that you can isolate each one and measure the amount of return fuel from each component. This sort of thing is to hard to convey from thousands of miles away on how to go about testing return for each component.
 

bigrich954rr

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I have a call in at 3 places waiting to hear back closest one is 4 hours out. And there going to figure prices and see when they can and some one out.

Might take a few shots in the dark with parts what’s the easiest to change first ?

what might stick open on a cold start let it run for a min shut it off and restart wouldn’t have any issues with the rest of the day or week ?

it threw the same screen and told me to shut it off a few times before and then it went away ?
 

bigrich954rr

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ok working on tracking down some parts still no info on if i can get some one to come out and fix it.

how much fuel should come out the bleed hole in injector ? thinking i might pull them out and check them
 

BigWrench55

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What you will need to do is find a way to isolate all of the returns. there at the flywheel end of the engine on the head is where all of the fuel returns for the injectors ( which comes directly from the head) common rail and fuel control valve meet. There are three lines connected to that fitting on the head. One line from the rail, one line from the fuel control valve and a third going back to tank. Your measurements will be taken from what returns from the injectors and the rail. If you can find a way to isolate those and have them flow into a graduated beaker you can then measure and find which is failing. When it comes to the fuel control valve it is best to find a way to have it return back into the tank or a five gallon bucket. This return flow is not important but it returns a massive amount of fuel in a short period of time and thus return it back to tank or into a five gallon bucket. Once you can find a way to isolate the injector return and common rail return, run the engine for one minute ( best if you have a helper at this point) and see how much fuel has returned from each. When it comes to the common rail you don't want to see any return at all. As for the injectors you will see return fuel. I don't have the specs for the amount off the top of my head, but if you can fill a normal single use water bottle halfway or better in that time frame. Then you have a failed injector or injectors. If that's the case I advise you to to go ahead and change all injectors. I tell all my customers that the labor costs are the same for replacing one injector as all of them. So I don't ever go through the process of of finding which injector failed and it is then you will need special block off caps to even figure out which injector failed. In the case that you don't have any return out of the rail and a acceptable amount of return from the injectors then you have a high pressure pump failing. Again I advise to replace both pumps because it then takes yet another special made fitting to figure which pump has failed. And the labor costs are the same to replace both as of one. With that all being said I would pull up the screen with the fuel pressure readings one more time. I stated earlier that your low pressure readings are good but I forgot to mention that you can see a good reading one minute and see it drop off in the next. If that's the case then you will have a overflow valve sticking open and dumping all the fuel that is going to the high pressure pumps. This valve is located in the fuel control valve and is on the bottom side and you will need to remove the control valve to access it. Be careful when working on the common rail and do not have your hands near when opening any part of it. If you have to perform any work on the rail give it 5 minutes and the pressure will be dissipated. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress and findings. Not only will it satisfy my ego and curiosity it will help others seeking answers as well.
 

bigrich954rr

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Is there a lower drain on the Main fuel tank or do you mean filter .

I will be starting to do the tests and measurement hopefully this week if not this weekend for sure I will update.
 

bigrich954rr

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Thank you very much for the help to start tracking it down.

I’m pretty sure this engine is a Deutz 1013. I have to volvo top plate engine model and SN is the SN also the Deutz SN or would there be another one some where on the engine. Want to make sure I order the right parts if I get stuck doing the whole job. Found some Deutz parts website that seem fair on pricing.

I was hoping to have parts line up the second I figure it out . And not have to pull parts for part numbers
 

funwithfuel

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Is there a lower drain on the Main fuel tank or do you mean filter .

I will be starting to do the tests and measurement hopefully this week if not this weekend for sure I will update.
Yes, there's a drain on the bottom of the tank. It should have the quick drain fitting.

[QUOTE="bigrich954rr, post: 889123, member: I’m pretty sure this engine is a Deutz 1013. I have to volvo top plate engine model and SN is the SN also the Deutz SN or would there be another one some where on the engine. Want to make sure I order the right parts [/QUOTE]

I don't know that you want to get parts from deutz. Volvo likes to p!ss on parts to make them theirs. Yes , it's a deutz engine. No , it doesn't necessarily use deutz parts. That's a call that you have to be comfortable with. Remember, an injector with an incorrect spray/ angle could just destroy a piston.
 

bigrich954rr

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Well I finally got a hold of one service place and they say it doesn’t look like low rail pressure I sent them the same pics you guys have the same 5000 to 6000 psi would be kind of normal for idle. Do you does anyone know the specs what the PSI should be in relation to Rpm’s.

I got someone probably driving out here tomorrow but two hours and 100 some miles is it gonna be one very expensive to just read the code if we don’t have parts
 
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