How to change a 1989 cat 235 from deere to Cat controls

[Mattsgame]

Hello. I just bought a big old 1989 Cat 235. I haven’t operated an excavator before but I grow up operating large equipment. So I’m sure I could get used to whatever controls this excavator has on it now; but everyone I talk to say I should change it over and learn on CAT controls.

What I’ve been told so far is to just change the hoses around. I do have a diagram of what the cat controls are so what I’d like to know is

Where the valves or block is that the hoses come into, and which ones I need to switch (If you can, pictures would be great)

Am I going to lose a lot of oil doing this?

Also I’m looking for an operator’s manual and maybe a service manual, so if you know where I could look to get them that would be great.

It’s probably going to be parked outside most of the time. Should I get a tarp or something to cover the main parts, or can they take the elements fairly well.

Also if anyone has any tips/or advice on running and maintaining an excavator especially a 235 I’d appreciate them. (common wear points, parts that I need to have well greased. etc)

Thanks for you time

Matt

 

[GCC]

hello the main valve chest sould behind the boom if you follow your boom hose to the valve chest mark them with tape just wrap the hose once each then find your stick hoses and follow them back to the valve chest and mark them with tape this time put 2 strips on them about an inch apart or use different color tape then find the bore side of the cylinder hose on both stick and boom and switch those 2 hoses then find your rod side of your cylinder and switch those around and you have cat controls. the rod hose is the one closes to your chrome piston, the bore is your piston hold unit and the bore hose is the on that is farthest from the chrome piston. because both cylinder are acting the same way on the joy sticks you dont have to cross hoses or nothing when you pull buck on your joystick your extending your pistons on the cylinders with out pictures thats the best i can help you i could make a video of how i would do it on my hitachi ex300lc-3 it would be pretty close. it should only take you a couple hours at the most to switch them. MAKE SURE YOU RELEASE ALL PRESSURE BEFORE YOU START REMOVING ANY BOLTS. I learned the hard way lol, i was on top of the machine working on replacing a hose and i loosen the bolts abit tap the line with a hammer and nothing so i figured it was no pressure on the line and when i got al the bolts of the line just flew off i took 4900psi to the right side of my face of hydraulic fluid next them i knew i was laying 30ft away from the machine and on my a** not i a good way to start a job.

 

[Greg]

I have run them both ways but prefer the SAE arrangement, which is what all manufacturers use except for Deere. What GCC is saying pretty much hits it on the head. I want to EMPHASISE the make sure all pressure is released or you could wind up seriously injured.

As far as the manual goes, look on Ebay. There is a fellow from Oregon State who sells all types of Cat manuals there. I have purchased a set for a Cat 215D excavator and a Cat 977L track loader. His stuff is all the genuine thing and usually run about $175.00 plus shipping. Going to Cat wil cost you ten times that. His books are all in excellent condition too.

 

[mitch504]

The manuals for my 215c and my D4e were around $150 a set from my Cat dealer for parts and service manuals.

 

[Buckethead]

. MAKE SURE YOU RELEASE ALL PRESSURE BEFORE YOU START REMOVING ANY BOLTS.

+1. Wait until you get the manual for your machine, and read and understand the precautions first before you try to change the hoses around.

 

[cutting edge]

Hopefully you read this before following the advice of any of the bucket heads in this thread.

Control swaps are done via relocating pilot hoses. You should be able to search that out on the interweb for your machine.

 

[Wardiker]

Hopefully you read this before following the advice of any of the bucket heads in this thread.

Control swaps are done via relocating pilot hoses. You should be able to search that out on the interweb for your machine.

No need for the buckethead comments, I did mine in an hour with the help of a guy who was familiar with the process, very easy, did need to buy a longer hose for one.

 

[Buckethead]

Hopefully you read this before following the advice of any of the bucket heads in this thread.

Control swaps are done via relocating pilot hoses. You should be able to search that out on the interweb for your machine.

Sorry if you didn't like my comment. :tong I never changed a control pattern like that, so I thought that telling the original poster to read the manual would not steer him wrong.

 

[cutting edge]

haha...I didnt realize there was a post by someone calling themself "Buckethead"....Its just a term I use for the sort of guy that will undo a loaded hoses-like GCC up there ^

 

[GCC]

It was a steel line and it looked like it had a whole in it and its not excatly in the best lite area and even with a flash light it looked like a rub through mark all I could tell is that there was hyrdualic leak flying all over everything so I found a rubber hose that had a hole in it from rubbing on a steel line so it looked like they both had holes in them so I figure I might as well take it out and tig weld it so I remove the line the way you should a high pressure line but thing don't always go as planned. I would never undo a pressured line on purpose its a good way to kill yourself. I don't do thing carelessly

 

[dblott]

I'd go with changing the pilot lines for another reason also. If you switch them at the valve, make sure your pressure reliefs for the functions being switched are the same. I tried this quick fix with my Dads tractor mounted backhoe and bent 2 stick cylinder rods before I figured out the pressure reliefs weren't even close.

 

[Mattsgame]

Thanks for the replies

I am ordering an operators and service manual, I’ll have them in a week or so. I’m having a guy float the excavator to my place sometime this week. I don’t have it yet, which makes it hard for me to see what you’re talking about when you’re explaining things. I don’t think I’ll change anything until I have the manuals. When I get the machine I’ll look over it with what you’ve said in mind, and I’ll post anymore questions I might have.

cutting edge – You wrote
“Control swaps are done via relocating pilot hoses. You should be able to search that out on the interweb for your machine.”

Do you mean internet not interweb? And if so, I googled a few different things and came up with nothing for a CAT 235C that’s why I’m asking for some help. And if you do mean interweb you’ll have to explain to me what that is. Thanks

If I have the service manual I would imagine that there is an index and I can search for pilot hoses and find out where they are. Will it tell me which hoses do what or will I still have to do some trial and error?

Also will there be a lot of pressure on the pilot hoses (or are they cables?), and would turning off the excavator each time I try to move the hoses around be the best way to release pressure.

Any tips or advice is welcome.

Thanks again guys for your help and for taking time to reply:salute

Matt

 

[overworked]

When u get your machine open the two doors behind the cab. On the inside of the doors are a picture of the control valves . Use the pictures they are labeled very well. I have. Manuals over the shop I will look tomarow, pilot hoses may be changeable under cab like on the newer. 300 series

 

[RKO]

hello the main valve chest sould behind the boom if you follow your boom hose to the valve chest mark them with tape just wrap the hose once each then find your stick hoses and follow them back to the valve chest and mark them with tape this time put 2 strips on them about an inch apart or use different color tape then find the bore side of the cylinder hose on both stick and boom and switch those 2 hoses then find your rod side of your cylinder and switch those around and you have cat controls. the rod hose is the one closes to your chrome piston, the bore is your piston hold unit and the bore hose is the on that is farthest from the chrome piston. because both cylinder are acting the same way on the joy sticks you dont have to cross hoses or nothing when you pull buck on your joystick your extending your pistons on the cylinders with out pictures thats the best i can help you i could make a video of how i would do it on my hitachi ex300lc-3 it would be pretty close. it should only take you a couple hours at the most to switch them. MAKE SURE YOU RELEASE ALL PRESSURE BEFORE YOU START REMOVING ANY BOLTS. I learned the hard way lol, i was on top of the machine working on replacing a hose and i loosen the bolts abit tap the line with a hammer and nothing so i figured it was no pressure on the line and when i got al the bolts of the line just flew off i took 4900psi to the right side of my face of hydraulic fluid next them i knew i was laying 30ft away from the machine and on my a** not i a good way to start a job.

You do not want to change the lines on the main valve as each spool is rated for the flow needed for that cylinder to work the right speed. The lift cylinders need more oil than the boom or bucket cylinder. I think the swing has a cushion valve in it. Just change the pilot valve lines around and do it right. You will lose a lot less oil doing it this way than changing the main lines around. There is a block that is for changing the pattern.

 

[overworked]

If use the label on the access door u can change the pilot lines under the back of the cab where the pilot lines all meet from the controls. Very straight forward. Pm me if u need help when u get it home. I have the manuals , still have several customers running them.

 

[Mattsgame]

I'm getting the 235 on Wednesday (March 23) and the manuals Monday or Tuesday. I’m hoping to find some time over next week to work on it. I’ll post any questions I have. I like figuring things out myself, but I find it’s easier to just ask someone for help rather then spending hours on something that would take a lot less time if I got help.

Thanks guys for your help.

Matt

 

[GCC]

Ya I forgot about and these pilot controlled machines you have to switch the connects and not the hose sorry for the miss leading info had a blond day lol

 

[Mattsgame]

Hello again. I got the service manual and operator’s manual, and finally found some time to look at the pilot controls. It looks to me like the previous owner just switched the pilot hoses under the seat where they connect to the floor. It looks like he got some 4 foot long hoses; then took the stick control hoses on the left and disconnected them from the floor. Then he ran the hoses to the right side and connected them to the floor, in the place that the boom hoses would normally connect. Then he did the some for the boom hoses. As far as I can tell I just need to change them back. But first…

I did some reading in the service manual where it talks about the main control valve for boom and stick crossover and where it talks about the pilot control valves. And before I change the hoses I want to check to see if I’m correct in my understanding.
From what I understand the actual valves in pilot controls (on the seat) are the same for both stick and boom. Also I believe that the main control crossover valve works the same way for both stick and boom, therefore they’re interchangeable. But if I’m incorrect please let me know.
Will changing the hoses under the seat screw up the crossover valve?

Thanks for any help you give

Matt

P.S. If anyone is looking for CAT manuals you should try the guy I got my manuals from. The manuals I got are used, but in great shape and I the price was good too. Type this address in.
http://myworld.ebay.com/oem_cat_manuals/

 

[Mattsgame]

I'm not sure why it's all underlined.

 

[Tinkerer]

Matt, when typing your post you may have clicked on the under line option. It is just above the message pane were you type messages. It is a the capitol letter U with a line under it.
Tinkerer