How to Adjust Valves on Case 580CK Diesel

[1968 Case 580CK]

I was searching the site for any old posts on how to adjust the valves on an old Case 580CK Diesel, but I found nothing. So, I am creating this new thread, hoping to get some good advice on adjusting the valves.

Here is the machine in question:


I found another tractor air filter that fit pretty good on the 2" air intake hose.....so I can run her without worrying about bugs and varmits getting sucked into the engine.

Pic of valve cover off:


Pic of valves with engine running......seems just a bit of clatter in the rear valves:


Whoever can shed some "light" on this situation, would be appreciated:

 

[Blueboy]

Hey man your machine looks mean! Good job!

 

[alrman]

This is the adjustment proceedure, straight from a manual. It's not the best quality, but I'm sure it'll do. :drinkup

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

alrman.....thanks for the link. I read it over, and it seems pretty easy. Im wondering where I can manually turn the engine to get her on TDC......there is no crank bolt in front of the radiator....maybe I can just rotate the fan blade?

Blueboy.......yea, she is a mean one......a cousin to the bad-ass Christine, the 57 Plymouth Belverdeer. One day she is gonna be chasing me around the farm, hissing and spitting diesel fumes at me.

 

[alrman]

....maybe I can just rotate the fan blade?

Some pressure on the fanbelt during the process will also be required

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

Some pressure on the fanbelt during the process will also be required

Alrman......and if that doesnt work, could I jack up the rear end and try rotating the tires with her in gear? Im also wondering if the hydraulic pump which is connected to the front of the engine will cause alot of resistance when trying to rotate the engine.
You can see half of it in this pic: Too bad they didnt put a large bolt on the outside that you could use to crank over the engine.

 

[alrman]

It will work.



PS that air filter is not designed to be used in that manner..... the paper is not supposed to get wet.

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

It will work.



PS that air filter is not designed to be used in that manner..... the paper is not supposed to get wet.

alrman......No worries mate....I just stuck that paper element on while I have the oil bath off.....so I can run the engine and not worry about stuff getting sucked into the engine. The design on these old 580CKs was not very good when it comes to removing the hood and getting to the engine. You have to take off the oil bath and exhaust pipe, remove alot of hood bolts, the front grill, and even the large oil bath mount in order to get the valve cover off. I got it all cleaned-up and ready to go back on after I finish adjusting the valves.

Here is the hood with fresh paint:



Here is the big oil bath cleaner that goes back on after cleaning and re-painting:



Thanks for your continued advice.

 

[partsandservice]

Make sure the fuel pump is shut off before rolling it with the fan. I would remove the starter and roll the engine with the appropriate pry bar.

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

Make sure the fuel pump is shut off before rolling it with the fan. I would remove the starter and roll the engine with the appropriate pry bar.

partzandzervice....Good suggestions. I guess just turning off the fuel shut-off under the tank is enough? Removing the starter is a good idea, and using a pry bar.

 

[Tinkerer]

I guess just turning off the fuel shut-off under the tank is enough?

No, the tank shut-off closed is not the only thing to do if you are going to turn the engine. If it is a diesel you need to be absolutely certain the injector shut-off is in the off position.

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

No, the tank shut-off closed is not the only thing to do if you are going to turn the engine. If it is a diesel you need to be absolutely certain the injector shut-off is in the off position.

Tinkerer.....Thanks again.....I will look around for the injector shut-off. This is the first time I have adjusted valves on a diesel.

 

[Delmer]

No need to look around, whatever you use to shut if off is the injection pump shut off. Unless you put it high gear and drive against a big tree...

Either a pull rod, or the key. If it's the key, then disconnect the ground terminal on the battery, actually, disconnect the battery as well as pulling the shut off rod.

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

No need to look around, whatever you use to shut if off is the injection pump shut off. Unless you put it high gear and drive against a big tree...

Either a pull rod, or the key. If it's the key, then disconnect the ground terminal on the battery, actually, disconnect the battery as well as pulling the shut off rod.

Tinkerer & Delmer......Now you got me a bit confused.....Is there actually an "Injector Shut Off" on an old 1968 Case 580CK? Are you actually referring to the "Stop" pull rod mounted on the dash? I have that pulled out, and the fuel **** turned off.

Would be nice to have a compression release valve for each cylinder to make spinning her over alot easier....and, no compression-no run-away tractor......or a tractor half way up the old oak tree of this shade-tree mechanic.

 

[Delmer]

Are you actually referring to the "Stop" pull rod mounted on the dash?

Yes, that shuts off the injection pump. It's usually pretty easy to turn the engine over with the fan, it just gets slow when you get to the top of the compression stroke, move a tiny bit, let the pressure leak down, move it again.

I wouldn't worry too much about starting it up by bumping the fan, you're far more likely to do something to activate the starter and lose a finger than start the engine, IMHO. Now on a lawn mower, remove the spark plug and/or wire.

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

Yes, that shuts off the injection pump. It's usually pretty easy to turn the engine over with the fan, it just gets slow when you get to the top of the compression stroke, move a tiny bit, let the pressure leak down, move it again.

I wouldn't worry too much about starting it up by bumping the fan, you're far more likely to do something to activate the starter and lose a finger than start the engine, IMHO. Now on a lawn mower, remove the spark plug and/or wire.

Delmer.......Got it.....thanks for clearing up the "injector shut-off" question. OK.....I will keep my paws out of the fan belt when rotating the engine to get her to TDC. I will have a friend bump the starter button on the dash while I am laying on my back under the tractor, looking at the TDC pointer thru that viewing hole. When she gets close to the TDC mark, I hope to manually rotate the rest of the way.

Dale from Tractor Stuff (who has been terriffic in finding a ton of used and new parts I needed) mentioned that due to gear lash, that its best not to try to rotate the engine backwards if you go past TDC, as that would not allow the valve adjustment to be exactly correct.

Its interesting that the huge Case Shop Manual only has one page on valve adjustment, and they do not give any tips at all on how to rotate the engine to TDC, or any safety precautions. Just a picture of a monkey stuck in the fan blade......ha ha ha.

Hey, when I had the valve cover off, and the engine idling, it seemed that the oil slowly flowed out near the front rocker arm, and I guess it works its way backwards to all the rocker arms. Is there only 1 oil supply coming up to the rocker arms, or are there multiple oil feed ports?

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

Valve Adjusting Update and Tricks:

Well, I managed to adjust all the valves with no issues. I was right about the rear valves having bit of a loud "clattering" noise. When I checked cylinder No. 4, the exhaust valve was set at .022, and the setting should be only .014, so it was way too loose. All the others were a bit off, but not as bad as the No. 4 cylinder.

Here is a pic of the viewing hole where you match the pointer up to the Top Dead Center mark:



I had someone bump the starter button as I was underneath the tractor looking for the TDC mark. The marks come in increments of 10 degrees, starting with a 30, then 20, then 10, then the DC mark. I found it was easier to just take a large screwdriver and once I was close to the TDC mark, I found bolt heads or other nooks in which to wedge the screwdriver and slowly turn the flywheel to the TDC mark. (This was alot easier than taking off the starter and using the flywheel teeth). I tried putting pressure on the fan belt and pushing on the fan, but it would not get enough friction to rotate. The belt was a bit loose, and already on the outer most point of the adjustment. Fortunately, the screwdriver through the viewing hole did the trick.

Questions for the experts: Here is a close-up pic of the rocker arm where it rubs against the valve head. All of them have a "rounded-off" rubbing area on the rocker arm. Is this the way they come new, or just from rubbing-away over the years?





Another question: Here are a couple pics of the valve adjusting screw. At first I thought there was an allen head screw on the top of the rocker, but it turned out just to be a hollow screw, and the adjusting screw was a 1/2" nut on the underside of the rocker. In my experience, there has always been a way to "lock" the nut after you adjust it. In this case, all I found was the nut and no way to lock it after the adjustment was made. It did turn with alot of resistance, so I guess the threads are lined with some type of locking material to keep it from moving. Can anyone explain if this is the case, or if I am missing something?





If someone doesnt have a shop manual, here is the one page instructions:
(will post in next section, as I think I am out of pic room)

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

Pic of shop manual instructions:





Also, since the valve cover has not been off in at least 25 years, should I also try to re-torque the head bolts? Any other thing I should do before closing her up and applying stitches? Maybe a good type of lubricant on all the rocker contact points?

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

Help.........any expert advice on these valve questions?

Thanks.

Clicketty Clack, clack, click, clack, clicketty clack-clack......goes the valves before adjusting.

Now............purrring like a kitten.

 

[Delmer]

The rocker arms aren't worn, they're built like that so the valves aren't pushed to the side as the rockers rock. No lube needed, there's plenty of oil there, the lube would just get washed away. That's one style of adjusting bolt, that doesn't have a lock nut, just go with it.

I wouldn't touch the head bolts, never heard of doing that while doing the tappets, only after a certain number of hours from a new head gasket.

I like to scrub the gunk out of the valve cover, and clean both surfaces real good if you're using silicone RTV, or a new gasket.