Hough H80B source for parts

[Minnesota Eric]

Tags and TheWelder, thanks for the explanation. Although I haven't had the opportunity to fire the loader up, move it, and look closer, your explanation makes sense.

Meanwhile, since I have all kinds of inside time, I have not been able to locate the proper description of the type of cylinder I need. I understand that I need a double rod (as in two separate rods), duplex cylinder but I keep coming up with nada on searches just trying to identify the correct terminology to describe the type of cylinder I need where booth ends extend or retract. Anybody know the right terminology for the cylinder I'm looking for or know where to get them?

As an aside, am I crazy to think about modding a 2.75 yard multipurpose bucket to work on my Hough for stumping?

 

[Theweldor]

You don't need both ends to retract. A cylinder if the right length of stroke is more important. If you look at the picture with the stud coming off the pin it has a washer to stop that pin when it is disengaged. Should be the same setup on the other side.

 

[Minnesota Eric]

You don't need both ends to retract. A cylinder if the right length of stroke is more important. If you look at the picture with the stud coming off the pin it has a washer to stop that pin when it is disengaged. Should be the same setup on the other side.

If I understand, it is a double acting cylinder with a pin on the butt end, and the "box photo" I showed earlier shows the washer that stops the ram on the left side, making the entire cylinder move top the left effectively pulling the rightside pin that is pinned to the bottom of the cylinder? So the right stroke and length of the cylinder are critical. Am I getting it?

 

[Theweldor]

That is how quite a few are setup. A couple of manufacturers have a setup with a cylinder for each pin. With the cylinder you don't need the stops to keep the pins from pulling out to far.
I think Car use one cylinder on their skidsteers, Deere if I remember right has cylinders on their hitch.
Look at a few machines it will give you some ideas.

 

[Minnesota Eric]

Question for people used to operating these bigger loaders: When my bucket is curled down and I lower the loader while the engine is idling, the bucket curls up under the weight of the loader. However, when I throttle up, I can hold the weight of the entire loader up off of the ground with the bucket curled down. I'm wondering if I have some cylinder leakage or if this is normal. I don't have a good way to cap the curl cylinder extend port to test if there is a leak past the piston so I'm asking folks with more experience than I about this.

In other news, the 4-in-1 bucket followed me home.

 

[Minnesota Eric]

Toward getting the radiator shutter system working again, does anybody happen to know what temperature shutterstat I should use? I cannot locate a part number for my Navistar 427 (466B), but see Shutterstats in 140°F, 165°F and 185°F opening temperatures. Also, does anybody recall the normal operating temperature of these Navistar engines? I'm asking because it is commonplace in my area for us to toss the stock thermostat in autos and light trucks and install either a 185°F or 195°F thermostats so that the vehicle doesn't cool itself back down while idling and go unto the warm-up fuel map (not an issue for the Hough) while the occupants keep the heater on a high level in cold temps. At this point I don't even know what temp the thermostat my engine is running, and so I'd to know the regular temperature operating range to best match up the shutter system. Thanks!

 

[nodwell]

We have a couple of H65 s and used to own a H80. Great machines, but brakes needed work on all of them. I've had really good luck with getting any air-brake parts rebuilt by "Precision Rebuilders" in St Clair Missouri. I think it cost around $450 a piece to get powerclusters rebuilt. We've gotten some cables from komastu (which I believe is supposed to handle the parts), however, We've had better luck just having our Napa store just send in our old cables to get new ones made. We've always used dot 3 bake fluid. Good Luck!!

 

[Minnesota Eric]

I popped a front tire and ended up replacing the front tires with new tires. I was going to replace the rears as well, but my mobile tire guy with the world's biggest tire manipulator explained that he didn't think he could get the tires off of my rear after spending six hours working on the front two tires because of corrosion (and watching, the guy worked for it too, so no joke PITA). Anyway, I measured as best as I could the diameter of the new tires at 16'-3.5" and the diameter of the old rear tires at 16'-6" wondering if I'm going to bind up the drivetrain roading the loader to my different jobs I have for it.

According to this article, I should be okay as I have a 2-1/2", roughly 60mm or 1.27% difference in diameter from axle to axle.

https://www.tirereview.com/matching-tires-on-all-axles/

However, according to fellow member, Chris5500, the spec should be 40mm or less rear to front. If I stayed off-road, I wouldn't be too concerned, but I need to road from one property to another. Anybody know the actual spec. from International-Hough for my H80B?

 

[Welder Dave]

I think tire pressure can help to keep diameters close to some degree. Not sure if tires can be changed leaving rims on. I know they can on some machines.

 

[Minnesota Eric]

I think tire pressure can help to keep diameters close to some degree. Not sure if tires can be changed leaving rims on. I know they can on some machines.

The fronts got changed with the rims on the loader, but that was using the loader to lift the axle off of the ground. The tire truck was literally pushing my loader side to side fighting corrosion holding the wheel flanges on and with them, the tires. The rear would be picked up and put on either cribbing or jack stands and so any pushing would knock the loader off. Thus the need to remove the rear wheels entirely and bring them in to a tire machine. I have the tools to do this, but am not super eager since these tires are messing with my Miller Multimatic 255 welder fund. Heh.

 

[oarwhat]

I don't know the specs. There are thousands of loaders with mismatched tires and they survive just fine. There's more torque on the driveline every time it's turned than what you'll have going down the road.

 

[Tones]

I operated an Allis Chambers TL 545 in the early 70's and drove it nearly everywhere with mismatched front to back tyres. Things were good until it snapped the posts in a planetary hub and stuffed some gears. No air freight in those day so a 6 month wait for parts. The owner rebuild all the required parts the conceded I was correct when bitching about mismatched tyres. It was transported after that.

 

[Minnesota Eric]

Question: can I safely jack up the rear of my Hough H80B on the rear pumpkin using a 22-ton jack, or are there jacking points on the machine? Also, can I support the machine using cribbing on the axles? I cannot find the answer in my owner's manual. Thanks!

 

[Welder Dave]

Don't know about loaders but semi's are lifted by the diff. I think cribbing the axle is fine. It supports the machine in operation.

 

[Minnesota Eric]

Don't know about loaders but semi's are lifted by the diff. I think cribbing the axle is fine. It supports the machine in operation.

That's what I am thinking but on different OEM's I do see specific jack points on their frames. I cannot find anything like that for my Hough.

 

[Minnesota Eric]

I posted this in the general section hoping to cast a bigger net but so far I've received no answers.

See this gismo. The gismo is connected to the oil/coolant heat exchanger on my 1979 Hough H80B that is powered by a DT466B and the gismo is currently leaking anti-freeze. The gismo has both coolant and oil lines running into it. I have all the OEM parts books but cannot locate the part number or the equivalent part. In fact, my correct for the year chassis and engine parts books don't show that it is part of the OEM coolant system. I'm assuming that it functions as a temperature regulator, and if not stock, that it functioned to keep everything warm operating here in northern Minnesota during the winter.

I want to fix, rebuild or replace it with something that does the same job but don't know where to begin looking apart from a couple of fruitless google searches.

Your help is greatly appreciated!

 

[Minnesota Eric]

My Hough project continues with my thanks to those who offered suggestions, advice and answered my questions!

 

[Minnesota Eric]

I've learned that old equipment is a money pit, but still fun!

 

[Minnesota Eric]

What appears to be an air shift solenoid on the transmission popped and was leaking air excessively but it got plugged up with an old leather glove in the field. I'll puzzle that problem out as well as the rest of the stuff yet to fix next time it comes home. Meanwhile, I got a little work out of the old girl.

 

[kshansen]

What appears to be an air shift solenoid on the transmission popped and was leaking air excessively but it got plugged up with an old leather glove in the field. I'll puzzle that problem out as well as the rest of the stuff yet to fix next time it comes home.

Does that leak air all the time or only when you have brakes applied with left brake peddle?