Hough H80B source for parts

[Minnesota Eric]

Today I was able to chase the Hough Home. Now comes the hard part: fixing it.

 

[Tags]

Congrats on getting the machine delivered, looks like it is in very good condition and looks like it's a strong runner. From the looks of it the left front bucket corner needs some welding and a new cutting edge, pretty minor compared to the braking issue. Looking forward to your progress.

 

[kshansen]

Congrats on getting the machine delivered, looks like it is in very good condition and looks like it's a strong runner. From the looks of it the left front bucket corner needs some welding and a new cutting edge, pretty minor compared to the braking issue. Looking forward to your progress.

I could also make suggestion about the missing lines to the bucket leveler valve, but yes brakes are very important!

 

[Minnesota Eric]

Now that the Hough has reached the Tinkerage (since I don't have a shop and just about everything is done outside), I've been looking it over while trying to find out stuff in the parts and service books. I was able to purchase a new diaphragm for the power cluster reservoir (the separate fluid reservoir that feeds both master cylinders, but Hough calls them "power clusters" LOL because they can) on eBay. Here is a photo of that reservoir with some banding I found laying around that I shoved in to try to slow the air leak so we could get rolling.

I see the airhorn valve may need rebuilding or replacing since the airhorn's button is stuck on the floor. I'm trying to chase down two mystery airlines that have been terminated improperly running up into the cab. I noticed that both front and rear wipers are air operated and I don't think either is hooked up.

What I did see is that this machine appears to be the final version of the H-80B model as it has disk brakes. Here is the right rear which is the only brake that looks like it has tried to be exercised.

The disk spec is 11mm or 7/16" and both rear disks appear to be in good shape. The fronts are a little harder for me to get at. I need to get some cinder blocks to hold the bucket up off of the ground for better access to the front axle.

Here is the double caliper right front. I can see that at least the two bleeder screws on the bottom are sheered off and the disk looks heavily grooved. I wasn't able to get a wrench on it to check it because of clearance issues (I'm fat).

I also see I've got a leak from somewhere in the primary or secondary pump area. It is so messy right now I cannot tell where any of it is coming from but getting the brakes working is my primary goal so all of the air leaks must get squared away before I can look at the hydraulic braking since the system is air over hydraulic for the brakes.

One other thing: This Hough has a what looks like a quick-release system for the bucket (the third function hoses are sitting there on the end of the loader), but the quick release is lacking any automated provision for pulling the bottom pins. Does anybody know what is going on here?

Thanks for any and all help or encouragement.

 

[old-iron-habit]

Where in MN you at? I'm near Moose Lake. Sounds like you got an interesting project.

 

[Welder Dave]

Brakes are outboard mounted so that helps but don't use cinder blocks to block the bucket, use wood blocking that can't break or crumble.

 

[Minnesota Eric]

old-iron-habit,

Although I've only been to Moose Lake twice (once to purchase a 3" mud pump and once to show a hunting refuge), it looks like a nice place. I'm nearly 200 miles to your north-west up near the Paul Bunyan.

Welder Dave,

My buddy Mark, an iron-worker by trade, when he came over this evening to have a libation and help crawl over this loader also nixed my cinder-block idea for the same reason you're nixxing the idea and told me we need cribbing to hold that loader bucket up—especially so if we're fiddling around lifting one axle or another to pop the wheels off to mess with the calipers and brake pads. The old owner gave me enough new pads to do the four calipers on the front and it took me some time to find out that this system takes DOT3 brake fluid. I ordered in a case of Lucas synthetic since it is good on old rubber parts, and has a slightly longer change-out time.

I took a backpack leaf blower to clean the junk out of the cab and Mark and I removed the main access panel in the bottom of the cab to gain better access to the leaky air system. This particular Hough is the last hurrah in their air-hydro brake systems foir the model (that took time to determine as well) and I'm pretty sure this machine needs a new air horn valve. The air horn valve seems stupid, but seemingly the system has two air tanks so that the air horn can honk while also hitting the brakes and all of this is knitted together in the two treddle brake pedals which also feed the air pistons that push on the two "power clusters," the air-over-hydraulic master cylinders.

Once I get the leaks puzzled out on the air side, I'm hoping the hydraulic side of the brake system will be just a giant bleeding session and not a tear into and rebuild. I also see on the computer sized photos, I've only got two busted bleeder screws. I don't think that I will have to much trouble getting them out as I think they broke from getting bashed rather than from seazing, but as a former auto tech living in the rust belt, I should be able to drill them, heat them up, and extract what's left of the busted bleeders and replace with new bleeders without need to remove the wheels (which I fear due to a lack of ground handling equipment), and pulling off the calipers.

I think I need to find a source for the various sizes of nylon DOT airlines that are running all over. Thankfully the parts book does give the size of the lines as well as the metal fittings the use to attach to the various components. I plan to try to order a new air valve from General Equipment in Fargo this week along with several other part numbers that refused to cross-reference.

 

[Delmer]

I've never seen a caliper quite like that, but every one I've seen has the bleeder screws on the top. Sometimes they have the opening on top and bottom because the caliper fits either side, but only the top one bleeds the air out. If those broken bleeders are the ones you need to get out, clean the mud daubers out of the middle part way down, weld a nut to them getting the bleeder as hot as fast as possible, then turn them out when cool to the touch. I wouldn't mess with the ones on the bottom though, unless you want to drain all the old fluid out?

 

[kshansen]

I've never seen a caliper quite like that, but every one I've seen has the bleeder screws on the top. Sometimes they have the opening on top and bottom because the caliper fits either side, but only the top one bleeds the air out. If those broken bleeders are the ones you need to get out, clean the mud daubers out of the middle part way down, weld a nut to them getting the bleeder as hot as fast as possible, then turn them out when cool to the touch. I wouldn't mess with the ones on the bottom though, unless you want to drain all the old fluid out?

I believe those are BF Goodrich Off-highway disc brakes, the rights to them I think were taken over by Carlisle in the 1990's. I believe some Cat loaders used them.

 

[Minnesota Eric]

I've exhausted the regular dealer for parts I already know I need so I'm about to call obscure parts people this thread has informed me about. I'm trying to figure out what engine manual I need with a remanufactured Serial number of 467TM3U102621 by Springfield Remanufacturing Group. I thought this has a DT466. Can anybody shine some color on this engine?

 

[Minnesota Eric]

kshansen,

That was a good tip. B.F Goodrich was sold, but a search led me to believe that the Hough H-80B uses B.F. Goodrich off-highway A4 calipers. That search led me to these guys: ABC Caliper rebuilders, which if their website is to believed, has all kinds of caliper-related brake parts.

http://airbrakecaliper.com/calipers.html

 

[FWD]

467T probably is a DT466B engine. A DT466 is the first series, a 467 is the 2nd series or 466B and a 468 is the 3rd series or 466C. The 466C didn't come out until 1985. I have a 468 in my 530 Dresser loader.
FWD

 

[Minnesota Eric]

Thanks, FWD for the info. I ordered a service manual covering the DT466B so I should have a complete set of manuals minus a parts manual for the motor.

In other news, Thill Tractor came through for the throttle cable (which they can make for $250) and bleeder screws ($25 each). After calling all over to find an air horn valve, I finally called my local Fleet Pride, gave them the original part number for the air horn valve, and Fleet Pride quickly cross-referenced it all the way to the newest Bendix foot-operated airhorn valve for $52.00.

I also talked to ABC Caliper. They can rebuild my calipers as needed for $350 each. They have no rebuild kits available. Several places can rebuild my power clusters, but after talking to my local Fleet Pride, I think I'd let them take a look at them before sending the power clusters off on adventures in different states.

So now I'm waiting on bits to arrive so I can attempt to fix all the air leaks in the hopes the hydraulic side of the brakes isn't roached. Stoked about the throttle cable as the existing cable is stiff enough were my lubing it may not bring it back and in order to lube the throttle cable I need to take it half off anyway, so I figure brand new is better—if for no other reason than new will be easier on my bum right knee.

 

[kshansen]

$25 for bleeder screws? Before I paid that I would go to you local NAPA or what ever good parts store you have near by. I'd bet those are just standard bleeder screws you can get anywhere.

Just a quick search on line came up with this"
https://www.autopartswarehouse.com/...=mode+matchallany&Nty=1&Nu=part&PN=0+782&VN=0

Something like 63 different versions and many are less than $10.00 each as most are sold as set of 2 or 4!

 

[Minnesota Eric]

kshansen,

I hear what you're saying but I have no idea what thread pitch, length, or size the bleeders are and don't want to mess with removing one on the machine until I have a spare in my hand. Sort of like $250 for the throttle cable seems high, but until I have greater familiarity with where to get parts, I'm the mulligan. If anything maybe the next guy reading this will benefit from what I learn and report.

 

[Welder Dave]

Is there a non broken one you can take out to match up?

 

[kshansen]

Is there a non broken one you can take out to match up?

Agree. Just un screw one and measure, I'd lay money that they are 3/8-24 thread so next question would be the length. Measure over-all and from tip that goes into caliper to the top of threads and you have all that you need. Then screw it back in and go to store or online. If you don't have a thread gauge just try a fine thread 3/8 bolt, if that's too big try a 5/16 fine. Very slight chance they would be metric.

 

[Minnesota Eric]

A tour of the problems my Hough H-80B Pay Loader has and my plan to move forward and address those issues and problems. Any tips and suggestions are welcome!

 

[kshansen]

A tour of the problems my Hough H-80B Pay Loader has and my plan to move forward and address those issues and problems. Any tips and suggestions are welcome!

Thyat thing near the end of the video you taped on calling it a "gizmo" is the either injector.
Here is a link I found with a picture, your's might be a different brand but gives you the idea:
https://www.amazon.com/KATS-33100-Button-Ether-Start/dp/B000I8XDTY

Also not to be too fussy but the wipers are air powered not vacuum powered.

 

[Welder Dave]

Ether.