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hitachi exe200 lc-s hydraulic problem stallin out engine

Discussion in 'Excavators' started by Kid, Oct 21, 2010.

  1. rare ss

    rare ss Senior Member

    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2011
    Messages:
    460
    Location:
    Western Australia
    sorry not too have read through all the posts, but have you checked all the fuses?

    I had an issue like this on an EX300-3 after a day of stuffing around we found a blown 1amp fuse PUMP MTG i think was the label and it solved it, was stopping the swash plate from destroking cause it to stall out the engine

    I'll go back into my corner now :)
     
  2. shopguy

    shopguy Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2011
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    418
    Location:
    Alabama
    Dont go to your corner ,we learn from eachother. I went and ran another -3 to find that it does the same thing that mine does so i guess it is one of thoes things i will have to learn to put up with.I thought that little problem just might lead me to the loading up when hot problem but no such luck.
    thanks
     
  3. seadara

    seadara Member

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2012
    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    INDIA
    Naheed, This is Srini from India. I have HITACHI EX120-3. I am having same problem what you encountered.But my Engine is not dying, all Hydraulics are stalled. I changed 2 High speed sensors, PVC, Angle sensor, DP sensor, Speed sensor(all from China). But still same probem. My electrician checked complete harnes, but still same problem. Hydraulic tank getting heated, slow boom movement, tracks completely stalled. Please help me since you have done enough experiments on these machines, All Hitachi Ex120-2,-3, HItachi EX200-2, -3 machines are same. Pls help me.--Srini
     
  4. seadara

    seadara Member

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2012
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    7
    Location:
    INDIA
    Hello , Could Some one help me in making HItachi EX120-3 to be manual. I got frustrated and spent lot of money on this machine.Pls Pls pls.
     
  5. Eric1975

    Eric1975 Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2010
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    Location:
    SW Washington
    Did you set the angle sensor, or just bolt it on?
     
  6. 000496519

    000496519 New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2011
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    4
    Location:
    Grande Prairie AB
    I have read all of the threads that have anything to do with the HITACHI 200LC. I have checked fuses, computer is operating normally

    Out of the 4 sensors they all tested fine. ALTHOUGH the angle sensor was a little suspect.

    STEP 1: I removed the sensor and checked with a small screwdriver to see if the fork on the swash plate was intact. I could rotate the fork freely which indicates that one of the arms must be broken.

    STEP 2: I put my multimeter in parallel on the ground and sensor return wires and adjusted angle sensor to roughly 1.45 or 1.54 Volts which is where it should sit in normal operation ** (I may not be accurate with the set voltage values because it has been several months since doing this but a guy with lots of experience had told me to set it to this so I am not making this number up) ** I then reinstalled the angle sensor.

    STEP 3: I got a friend to start the machine and operate it while I monitored the voltage..... :eek: WHAMMO the machine ran awesome no stalling or slow operation. :confused: THEN.. the voltage changed and the machine acted up again. **( I cant remember which did what but from what I gathered after a few tests. Either when the voltage goes above or below the value that I had originally set it causes one of these two things.

    ISSUE 1: the machine goes into a limp mode where the engine is at high rpm but all the hydraulic functions are slower than molasses.

    OR

    ISSUE 2: the machine runs fairly normal except it will stall out when you run the hydraulics full out (two functions at the same time or fully extended or retracted)

    My question to anybody is. Has anybody had this problem before? What have they done to fix it? Is it possible to tear down the pump and replace the fork? Does anybody have a rebuilt pump? Is there a manual that shows step by step instructions for tearing down the pump?

    Or is my troubleshooting completely effed :eek: and I am so far out I should get my head checked? ;)
     
  7. -3Doc

    -3Doc Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2009
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    119
    Occupation:
    Ticketed HD Mechanic
    Location:
    British Columbia
    My son lives in Grand Prairie!!
     
  8. KenAl

    KenAl Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2007
    Messages:
    189
    Location:
    north
    "My question to anybody is. Has anybody had this problem before? What have they done to fix it? Is it possible to tear down the pump and replace the fork? Does anybody have a rebuilt pump? Is there a manual that shows step by step instructions for tearing down the pump?
    Or is my troubleshooting completely effed and I am so far out I should get my head checked? "

    Yes you need not go any further until you get the pin/fork arrangement repaired. Usually it was the valve plate pin that broke off. There was an updated valve plate and fork. Try to find the broken parts.
     
  9. Northpoint

    Northpoint New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 5, 2012
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    Location:
    Petaluma, CA
    Thanks to all who contribute to this thread, it has made my task of figuring out the problem on my EX-220-2 much easier. My problem is so much like every body else on this thread. It turns out that after reading toward the end of this thread is that I have a broken fork or pin that operates the A sensor.
    It also turns out that my Hitachi 220-2 technical manual is written incorrect on setting the A sensor. The manual says that you are to be sure to have the punch mark on the side of the label before placing into its position( the label is on the harness side). I called my local Deere Dealer to ask them if it was written wrong in my manual and if they would look it up in there manual on how to set it but they would not look it up. Then I found this thread on this issue and KenAl confirmed what I was suspecting, that it should be written to have the punch mark on the opposite side of the harness, or as KenAl put it 180 to the harness. The labels are on the side of the harness on the two sensors I have.
    Now I would ask KenAl if it is possible to remove the outer cover of the valve plate while the pump is on the machine or should I remove the pump from the machine to repair the broken pin and or fork?
     
  10. KenAl

    KenAl Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2007
    Messages:
    189
    Location:
    north
    The dealers had kits to do it in place. You still have to drain the oil. Taking it off and laying it on the housing so you can pull the head off straight up is the easiest. Remember to look for the broken piece. It usually was still in the case.
     
  11. Northpoint

    Northpoint New Member

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    Jul 5, 2012
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    Location:
    Petaluma, CA
    Before you responded I had already taken the pump out and layed it on the bench as you described. It really isn't that much work taking it out. I did find the broken piece of pin in the case. After careful inspection, the fork shows uneven wear on the inside of the forks and it also shows wear on the side next to were the step is on the pin. The pin also shows wear on the face of the first step wear the wrench flat area is. I could be wrong, but if there was more clearance between the side of the fork and pin to were it could not touch on the side, it would not have broke the pin.
    It seems that if you had the original pin to replace into the valve and only changed out to the new spring type lever that would be the fix. I believe that if the new style fork is used you could stay with the original pin in the original valve, but the original pin needs to be machined back another .050" so the side of the fork doesn't touch the side of the pin.

    Or just spend the $690.00 for the new valve with integrated pin, new lever and be sure to buy the new shaft that goes with the new lever, because the old shaft on the old lever is different and call it good. All parts, o-rings, packing, filter, shipping, to do this job is going to be about $1,000.00. Ordered all the parts thru Deere Dealer, no problem. Thanks
     
  12. maxman

    maxman New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2013
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    2
    Location:
    down under
    Has anyone fitted a manual conversion kit to their pump?
     
  13. SHAWNM

    SHAWNM New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2013
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    4
    Location:
    georgia
    I have a 220-5 grey hitachi and it bogs the engine with any hydraulic function. Any ideas?
     
  14. wabco

    wabco Active Member

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    Aug 27, 2013
    Messages:
    27
    Location:
    australia
    has anybody had any luck whith solving problems whith hitachi ex2003 stalling not destroking pump etc replaced pvc just don't seem to be able to nail the problem
     
  15. spitzair

    spitzair Senior Member

    Joined:
    May 4, 2007
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    914
    Location:
    Squamish BC (Home), Slave Lake, AB (Work)
    Hello Wabco,
    I've had these very same problems with my EX200-2. I ended up having to replace the entire wiring harness on the machine as there were so many broken wires and other issues... I had a thread going about what I found and what I did that might help you out. I'm going to try to put a link in here and hopefully it will help you out. https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...-Hitachi-EX200-2-computer-question&highlight=
     
  16. wabco

    wabco Active Member

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    Aug 27, 2013
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    27
    Location:
    australia
    thanks spitzair for reply I have had to do some other work but soon as I get aminute iam going to attack again will let you know how igo ithought my wiring might been alright as ihave checked the continuity on most of it
     
  17. spitzair

    spitzair Senior Member

    Joined:
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    914
    Location:
    Squamish BC (Home), Slave Lake, AB (Work)
    I checked continuity and all that good stuff too on mine... At one point when I thought I had everything fixed it worked for about a minute or two, then it quit again... Sometimes there are breaks in the wires that don't show up until it moves or a vibration wiggles it open, etc... It was a very frustrating time troubleshooting it so in the end I did what I should have done right away and replaced the wiring harness... Ever since then the machine has been perfect!
    Hope this helps!
     
  18. wabco

    wabco Active Member

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    Aug 27, 2013
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    27
    Location:
    australia
    about to attack excavator again trying to decide wheter to replace wiring or convert over to hyd pump control
     
  19. jdwalpole

    jdwalpole New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2013
    Messages:
    3
    Location:
    Walpole, MA
    New to this Forum but have been looking over some of the posts on here, I own 2 Hitachi Excavators a Ex100-2 and a Ex200LC-5 and a Deere 35D Mini, Guess I'm lucky I haven't had any serious issues with any of my machines, however one problem I have had which I see others posting that their machine would run fine but die out when you go to move, I'm sure many of you may know this but for those that dont, On the Isuzu engine the line going into the fuel filter, if you back out the Banjo bolt, be careful not to lose the washers, there is a plastic screen that screws into the bolt itself. if that gets plugged up it can cause all sorts of interesting things to happen with the machine. the most common is the machine will start up run fine, Rev up but as soon as you go to crawl, swing, dig it will stall right out or sometimes it will slowly fade like your running out of fuel. Hope this helps some.
     
  20. mclean

    mclean Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2013
    Messages:
    50
    Location:
    Seattle Washington
    Has any one converted the electronics to the hydraulic control. I see the Chinese ones for sale, and am tempted to skip all this electronic craziness.. Seems if you pick the wrong sensor to replace, you've almost bought the conversion kit. Then you have to pray that the rest of the system is intact..

    Would be very interested to know how it worked.