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HF 1” Air Impact, low power

Birdseye

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2020
Messages
248
Location
Topeka Kansas
Birdseye,
The torque values are in the service manual. I'm posting the page for the dipper cylinder.
Notice it says to use blue Loctite !
Also notice what it says about lining up the set screw.

Tinkerer, shame on me, I should have looked more carefully at the service manual because you’re absolutely correct, the case 580e service manual has exactly what I am looking for.
As you say it has all the details about the replacement of seals in the backhoe cylinders:
- torque settings for each cylinder
- weight of each cylinder
- recommended thread locker
- dis-assembly and re-assembling steps

Thanks for pointing out what was right in front of me !

The manual does however make the repacking process more difficult by removing the entire cylinder from the machine, to me it’s easier to just remove the cylinder rod.
 

NH575E

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2015
Messages
1,193
Location
North, FL
Occupation
Retired Machinist
Comparison of hose diameters and connection location worth the watch.

 

Swetz

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2019
Messages
1,378
Location
NJ/PA
Occupation
Electric & Gas Company
Good Video.

I would have loved to see them take it further and show how the flow is related to max torque, in all 3 scenarios.

When I purchased my compressor, I purchased a 2-stage that would achieve 175PSI, and is rated at 15.4 CFM @ 90PSI. I plumbed in a 3/4" regulator that was rated at 140CFM, and used 3/4" copper tubing to plumb in (I have heard this is not good, but have worked at multiple places that had this setup for many years). When I decided to purchase a 1" drive impact, I added another outlet (tee in the copper pipe, with drip leg). This tee is fitted with 1/2" female pipe thread opening that has a Milton G-style high flow coupler rated a 99 SCFM. The hose is a 1/2" Good Year rubber hose that is 50 feet long. This is probably the only bottleneck in my setup. I also purchased an Ingersoll Rand 1" gun that is rated at 2100 Ft # of torque. At this point it has successfully removed the piston rod bolts on the stabilizer, lift cylinder, crowd cylinder, and front bucket cylinders of my New Holland 675E, all of which were factory tight, and had blue Loctite.

One of the things that is worth mentioning about breaking a piston rod bolt is how it is secured. I like to reinstall the rod back in its normal position with the original pin in place. This seems to absorb the least impact (power) from the gun. Years ago, when I used to rebuild cylinders all the time (mostly bucket trucks for a electric utility), we had a jig on the bench that was bolted fast and contained 2 ears with different inserts. You pick the one that matches the size of the rod eye. It was also adjustable for width, and was just at working height. We never had an issue breaking the nuts (most bucket trucks had the rod threaded) from the rod with an impact gun. I think this device was in-house manufactured as we had a machine shop, but I wish I had this setup today. Oh, and buy the way, it had a gantry crane over it to move the rods into place...a long way from working off a ladder on the side of a backhoe! We also had a hydraulic cylinder bench for the really big cylinders from cranes and such. It was sweet to watch a cylinder bolt or nut just unthread as the hydraulic cylinder moved...no struggle at all.
 
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