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Help with trans I'd, 580b

Discussion in 'Tractor/Loader/Backhoes' started by RES, Feb 20, 2021.

  1. RES

    RES Member

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2021
    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    37058
    New here and a not so new 580B. New to me, but a 1975. Hoping for a me mechanical shuttle with dry clutch. Drove it home 3 miles but would barely pull itself. I have a parts manual but not a service manual yet. Hoe is off, got it from a local hardware store. They used it to load sand, mulch and gravel. Hoe has been off for 20 or so years. When new they used it to install septic tanks. Anyway, some pics so maybe one of you can I'd it for me. If more needed say so. Thanks, new here and new to Dover Tn. Twin stick, single pedal on the right and no pressure gauge. The clutch linkage looks like mechanical shuttle in parts book. 20210220_171341.jpg 20210220_171234.jpg 20210220_171146.jpg
     
  2. jd1234

    jd1234 Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2009
    Messages:
    28
    Location:
    Michigan
    Looks like a mechanical dry clutch design. One telltale, there is no Trans Oil Pressure Gauge

    upload_2021-2-21_0-11-48.png

    For ****FREE **** Case 580B backhoe parts and service manuals go to Minnpar.com : https://www.minnpar.com/manuals.aspx
     
  3. RES

    RES Member

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2021
    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    37058
    That's what I was hoping to hear! Still not easy, but i know a heck of a lot more on how to change a dry clutch than work on torque converter/power shuttle. The engine runs great, started right up at 15° and the front bucket hydraulics work as they should. Really strong. A few weeps in bucket cylinders but those should be no problem to repair. Now to split it or pull the engine to get to the clutch. Wiring in a mess, needs to be redone. I may just pull engine, it could us a new belt too. I have an engine hoist and a 3600 Ford with a loader. Thanks for the help jd1234!
     
  4. melben

    melben Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2008
    Messages:
    873
    Location:
    pennsylvania
    The engine and front end can easily be rolled ahead after removing the hydraulic pressure pipe and suction pipe nipples from the loader frames, the bolts on the loader frame by the radiator of course but everything else as a normal split. Block it up securely under the frames and use a bottle jack to keep the torque tube in position. Make a pair of wedges to drive in at the pivot on the front axle to keep the engine from rolling sideways. The belt can be done without removing the front casting by moving the pump ahead. I would not remove the front casting unless necessary. When you get ready to reassemble there are some things that need to touched on, when you get it split it will probably need the flywheel resurfaced and a new pressure plate and friction disc and both bearings will be in order.
     
  5. Larryv

    Larryv Member

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2021
    Messages:
    18
    Location:
    So. Illinois
    Before you rip it apart. Might check clutch pedal free play . Should move about an inch and half before resistance is felt.
     
    stinky64 likes this.
  6. RES

    RES Member

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2021
    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    37058
    Thanks guys. Manual showed up Tuesday. Know about flywheel. Have never done a car clutch without getting one surfaced. Only thing I don't get is the finger adjustment on pressure plate. Just kind of glanced over it. Didn't read it thoroughly though.