That might work.....
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Help me stay alive building road with TD-18
- Thread starter chevy43
- Start date
That might work.....
Scrub Puller
Senior Member
Yair . . .
Chevy43. Looking good, you're doing real well.
Those "ramps" that build at the end and try to force you higher are a normal occurrence and a sign that you need more room on the bench so that you can back the azz of the tractor more towards the wall and sort of work "across" the bench to push them out.
I realise you are trying to move the minimum amount of dirt though and understand the problem.
Cutting uphill is a bear and, if possible you will find it better if you can climb the ridge with a full tank and cut down from the top.
I once spent nine hours climbing a razor back in PNG in order to cut a couple of miles of down hill switch backs. I camped with the machine for weeks and had a team of native helpers to carry in my food, fuel and parts.
The specification on that job was that in the dry season a short wheel base Landrover could negotiate the grades in two wheel drive and negotiate the switchbacks with out backing up.
When that was achieved it was officially a "road" and was eventually handed to the local government for improvement and maintenance.
Cheers.
Chevy43. Looking good, you're doing real well.
Those "ramps" that build at the end and try to force you higher are a normal occurrence and a sign that you need more room on the bench so that you can back the azz of the tractor more towards the wall and sort of work "across" the bench to push them out.
I realise you are trying to move the minimum amount of dirt though and understand the problem.
Cutting uphill is a bear and, if possible you will find it better if you can climb the ridge with a full tank and cut down from the top.
I once spent nine hours climbing a razor back in PNG in order to cut a couple of miles of down hill switch backs. I camped with the machine for weeks and had a team of native helpers to carry in my food, fuel and parts.
The specification on that job was that in the dry season a short wheel base Landrover could negotiate the grades in two wheel drive and negotiate the switchbacks with out backing up.
When that was achieved it was officially a "road" and was eventually handed to the local government for improvement and maintenance.
Cheers.
Beat not to alter the creek. Fish & Game stopped our project 2010 for installing 4ea 48" diameter culverts cemented into place using natural rocks. After a couple meetings the guy finally agreed AS property owners we did have the right to improve access.
Thanks StanRUS,
I was thinking just one 24" culvert would work but now I'm thinking natural looking ford. Not sure why they don't like culvert. Seems like culvert keeps dirt out of the stream. I'm trying to call them to see what practice they like for farm - fire road creek crossings but I get the answering machine and I'm not leaving my name and # for them.
Willie B
Senior Member
How do you define creek? Otter Creek one of the great trout streams drains 800 square miles of VT. That's too big for screwing around without permits. A little brook might go unnoticed.
Willie
Willie
I might look at one 24" culvert arranged in a " low water crossing " setting . That way water can simply run over the top of the road if need be during times of high rain fall .
Stabilize both sides of the road with Gabion baskets at the crossing & she won't go no where .
https://www.gabionsupply.com/
Nice job chevy43 !
Scrub Puller
Senior Member
Yair . . .
chevy43
Climbed blade forward, it was only a little Massey, about ninety horsepower maybe a 3366? I'm not much good at remembering model numbers.
It was a sure footed little beast though and I had every confidence in where I could take it.
I have some pictures of that job (pretty poor instamatics) and may be able to find them if folks are interested.
Cheers.
chevy43
Climbed blade forward, it was only a little Massey, about ninety horsepower maybe a 3366? I'm not much good at remembering model numbers.
It was a sure footed little beast though and I had every confidence in where I could take it.
I have some pictures of that job (pretty poor instamatics) and may be able to find them if folks are interested.
Cheers.
I've climbed a hill forwards 1:1 grade with the JD 350 and it was damned uncomfortable!!Scrub Puller, post some pictures of that job if you can. I'd like to see them.
Did you lay out the switchbacks on that job or did a surveyor? Switchbacks are tricky. Do you have any advice on them? If the mountain doesn't supply a flatter area it looks like more than doubling the cut to put one in.
Did you lay out the switchbacks on that job or did a surveyor? Switchbacks are tricky. Do you have any advice on them? If the mountain doesn't supply a flatter area it looks like more than doubling the cut to put one in.
Last edited:
old-iron-habit
Senior Member
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I inclined to think it wold have worked fine with a straight blade. They are normally narrower and easier to turn while pushing. Work the inner edge and turn the material out the same as you are doing. We used a straight blade with no tilt on an old D4 when making logging roads as a young feller but nothing like you are dealing with. They were plenty big to roll down though.
Willie B
Senior Member
With a small tractor, angling the blade changes the geometry while raising the blade. The corner of the blade is prone to snagging each root, and rock. I'd use my PAT blade square for that job. Your tractor is twice as heavy as mine, It might be less a problem. Pitch is a valuable feature, Angle less important, except plowing snow.
Willie
Willie
Scrub Puller
Senior Member
Yair . . .
Chevy43. There was no survey. we mostly followed footpaths that had been established for hundreds maybe thousands of years.
The villages of maybe up to a couple of hundred people were only accessible by foot or muletrain.
There are some interesting views there on the value of an angle blade for hillside cuts. I believe an angle blade to be essential. The ultimate would be a PAT of course as occasionally its handy to be able to move some dirt in a straight line.
This was usually accomplished by working slots with the angle blade . . . the angling wasn't particularly easy on that tractor and there was no hydraulic tilt.
As I mentioned all the road surface had to be on cut and, in order to achieve this, there were places where there was thirty or forty feet of unstable vertical wall and landslides covering the machine could be a threat . . . I had the locals watching constantly in the bad places as there was always a little tell tale dribble of stone and gravel before the whole thing slipped.
Any sign of movement and I'd clatter back out of the cut and the boys would throw rocks at the face to bring the loose stuff down . . . it was strange to see loose water washed round gravel and seashells way up in the mountains.
Cheers.
Chevy43. There was no survey. we mostly followed footpaths that had been established for hundreds maybe thousands of years.
The villages of maybe up to a couple of hundred people were only accessible by foot or muletrain.
There are some interesting views there on the value of an angle blade for hillside cuts. I believe an angle blade to be essential. The ultimate would be a PAT of course as occasionally its handy to be able to move some dirt in a straight line.
This was usually accomplished by working slots with the angle blade . . . the angling wasn't particularly easy on that tractor and there was no hydraulic tilt.
As I mentioned all the road surface had to be on cut and, in order to achieve this, there were places where there was thirty or forty feet of unstable vertical wall and landslides covering the machine could be a threat . . . I had the locals watching constantly in the bad places as there was always a little tell tale dribble of stone and gravel before the whole thing slipped.
Any sign of movement and I'd clatter back out of the cut and the boys would throw rocks at the face to bring the loose stuff down . . . it was strange to see loose water washed round gravel and seashells way up in the mountains.
Cheers.
Coastiebro
Active Member
Great job, so much satisfaction seeing older gear still doing the job! PS I got to drive an IH scout almost identical in California when I was over there in '94 but it had a 6 cylinder nissan transplant. Like to see more of the Dozer and the "crossing" the Gov here does't like dirt in creaks and water ways here either, can be hard when on steep country.
Coastal
Senior Member
Awesome! I'm about to start a new driveway in similarly steep terrain with td15.
Well it cooled off and started to rain so the fire hazard is gone and I got back to work.
I started up the other side of the canyon. Going up hill turned out to be safer since i had gravity pulling me back towards my cut and I didn't risk spinning a track on my skinny pile of fluffy fill.
I had to stop a lot to move trees and cut branches.
I started up the other side of the canyon. Going up hill turned out to be safer since i had gravity pulling me back towards my cut and I didn't risk spinning a track on my skinny pile of fluffy fill.
I had to stop a lot to move trees and cut branches.
