Happy New 955L Owner With Questions

[leadfarmer]

Oh boy, looks like that bushing is in the transmission case itself, not the removable top cover. I will have to remove the linkage arm and see what I can do.

 

[leadfarmer]

I finally got to checking the engine number. Anything interesting?

The fuel pump doesn’t look like the one in my maintenance book. There is a lock/unlock screw on top of the filter. What does this do? It was a little bit threaded out from the locked position as I found it. I dont see a hand prime pump. How do I properly go about changing the fuel filter and priming?

 

[AllDodge]

The thing on top the filter is the primer pump. Turn CCW and then pull out, start pumping to bleed fuel lines and filter when changing. Push back in and turn CW to lock down

 

[kshansen]

Maybe it's an optical illusion but that lock/unlock knob on pump looks off center, might be broke?

That does look like one of the "newer" style pumps the older ones looked a bit different but mounted to the same place. I liked them because they had longer stroke so took less pumping to prime system.

If you need to replace it the "Genuine Cat" pump would be a 4N2511 for around $130. and the Cat aftermarket one form the dealer would be a 569-4682 for about $56. both would also need a 1P0436 gasket

I'm attaching the instructions off SIS that should be right for your machine, see if they are different than what you have. There are a couple extra pages at the start.

 

[Nige]

4N3974 Arrangement is what's supposed to be in the tractor based on Serial Number 85J10466 so it looks like the engine is most likely original.
Maybe some of the parts on the engine might not be original if they were bought used or aftermarket.
If you don't have one already a genuine Cat Parts manual would be a good investment. The publication reference is SEBP1053. Here's one advertised on eBay that covers both your machine and engine Serial Numbers.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CAT-Caterp...Book-85J-catalog-spare-SEBP1053-/201172661017

 

[leadfarmer]

I do have that manual and that fuel filter arrangement was shown in my maintenance book, just on the next page. Oops! Got the engine oil, both air filters, and the fuel filter changed today. Changed the final drive fluid and started removing the shifter linkage to fix that issue. Also pulled the left dump cylinder hard line that has a pin hole leak from rubbing. I am kicking it into high gear because nice weather is coming!

 

[leadfarmer]

I got my shift linkage all squared away and I just pushed stumps for like an hour. I shut it off to adjust the shift linkage because neutral wasnt really there, I was in gear when going between forward and reverse. I extended the forward/reverse linkage and turned the crawler back on and it wont move at all. Shut it off and adjusted the shift linkage again back to where it was and still no movement from the tracks in forward or reverse. What gives? No pedals are engaged.

 

[AllDodge]

Linkage may be binding or dragging.

Try disconnecting linkage at the pivot at rear of trans in neutral. Fire it up and use something to move the pivot F/R. If all goes smooth and no issues then its in the linkage

 

[leadfarmer]

I tore that pivot point apart and greased it so its clicking into forward/reverse nice but I can try it.

 

[AllDodge]

The problem can be anywhere along the linkage path. The first pivot is directly below the lever on left side

 

[leadfarmer]

I think I might just be low on trans fluid. Maybe that explains why I wasnt getting track spinning all the time. How many gallons low to cause transmission slipping?

 

[AllDodge]

Don't know, never wanted to figure that one out

 

[Nige]

Make sure you're checking the power train fluid level correctly with all systems at operating temperature, engine idling and transmission in neutral.

See Page 7 of the attachment.

 

[leadfarmer]

So linkage was fine, trans is low on fluid, and gear case is quite high on fluid. Whats the cause and solution for this conundrum? I added fluid to the trans and it moves again.

 

[AllDodge]

So linkage was fine, trans is low on fluid, and gear case is quite high on fluid. Whats the cause and solution for this conundrum? I added fluid to the trans and it moves again.

You have a seal between trans and finals that went out

 

[leadfarmer]

Is there another way the trans fluid can migrate into the bevel gear case other than the seal around the shaft between the two? I was reading something in a thread about fluid leaking at the trans and bevel gear pumps.

Ugh, pulling the trans to replace a seal is not a project I have time for.

I am also a little suspicious that I might just have a trans fluid leak. I havent had the machine on a hard dry surface to be sure though. Is there any common places for the transmission fluid to leak that is not readily apparent from the operator seat area? Does the transmission fluid travel to the radiator for cooling?

 

[AllDodge]

Is there another way the trans fluid can migrate into the bevel gear case other than the seal around the shaft between the two?

I don't know of another way

Bevel gears don't have a pump

 

[fest777]

the trans fluid travels too the trans cooler connected to the oil cooler if it has one , there are 2 large lines that that start and end at trans my 955 was leaking at the rear most line just 2 bolts and a gasket that go straight up, when your tractor is running look down the floor plate towards the rear follow the 2 large lines and see if its leaking, you have too drop the pan to get to them, my leak was just loose bolts so i changed gasket anyway, also if those lines have been bent or hit in anyway there going too be a bear to get back lined up, you will know when you take bolts out if they bind there going to be a problem, check the flexible couplings too while your there ,there not that much maybe 10 bucks a piece there heavy duty hose clamps

 

[leadfarmer]

Well I am just going to chock the fluid level issue up to mechanic error. I think when I went to add fluid to the trans I added it to the gear case. I ended up adding fluid to the trans and it hasnt gone anywhere after a few days of pushing over trees and cleaning up brush.

Today was the first day I ran it for 2 and a half hours of constant earth moving, mostly full throttle with decel to change direction. At the end if the two hours it smelled toasty and there was light white smoke drifting out after shut down. The trans filter cover is too hot to hold your hand on. Not once did it give me any operating issues though. I got a lot of dirt moved. I just need to get better ar cutting flat and keeping the bucket from digging in randomly.

I have one temp gauge that works, and it stayed in the green zone, but I am honestly not sure what it connects to. Ambient Air tempt this evening was 50F.

Should I be concerned about the heat indicators and hot trans filter cover? Im not too familiar with whats normal for these machines.

 

[DMiller]

To a point yes, as it is so cool out it is running on the warmer side where I would be getting ALL the temperature gauges at the least functional. Your tractor should have a integral trans oil cooler in the radiator where the outside could be fouled enough to run too hot in hot weather. As you are likely aware these push air out from engine side unless someone has reversed and left the fan blades in Winter pull position.
I had my own issue with a fouled radiator where tractor ran hotter than normal but could cool it down between load outs.