1. Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!
  2. ALL NEW MEMBERS READ THIS FIRST!! Thank you for joining Heavy Equipment Forums! If you are new to forums we communicate with "Threads", please search our threads to see if your topic may have already been answered and if not then click "Post New Thread" in the appropriate forum. This will allow all of our members to see your question and give you the best chance to be answered. After you've made a number of posts you will graduate to Full Member status where you'll see a few more privileges. Following these guidelines will help make this the best resource for heavy equipment on the net. Thanks for joining us and I hope you enjoy your stay!!

Grove AMZ46NE manlift

Discussion in 'Other Construction/Demolition Equipment' started by tool_king, Oct 1, 2010.

  1. tool_king

    tool_king Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2010
    Messages:
    1,968
    Occupation:
    road mechanic owner
    Location:
    new jersey
    I have a Grove AMZ46NE manlift with a serial number of 250258 that does not drive . All other functions work fine .Has anyone ran across this prblem . Also anyone have a electrical and hydrualic schematic on this machine.
     
  2. barklee

    barklee Senior Member

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2009
    Messages:
    903
    Location:
    ohio
    I just might, we used to have one of those. What year is yours? Does it have a Wisconsin engine? When i go to the office tomorrow i will look!
     
  3. tool_king

    tool_king Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2010
    Messages:
    1,968
    Occupation:
    road mechanic owner
    Location:
    new jersey
    Barklee it is electric driven.electric motor hooked to axle pinion imput . please let me know any info you have this.I do not have the year on this.I will have to get it off the id tag.
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2010
  4. barklee

    barklee Senior Member

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2009
    Messages:
    903
    Location:
    ohio
    I guess i didnt look closely enough at the "E". The one we had was a 1987 with the gas/ LP engine. Still looking for the manuals
     
  5. willie59

    willie59 Administrator

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2008
    Messages:
    12,814
    Occupation:
    Service Manager
    Location:
    Knoxville TN
    If it's electric drive, should have some type of motor controller, like a Sevcon or General Electric controller. Does motor controller have an LED flash code indicator on it? What about the electric drive motor. Does it have four terminals, like F1 F2 A1 A2?
     
  6. tool_king

    tool_king Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2010
    Messages:
    1,968
    Occupation:
    road mechanic owner
    Location:
    new jersey
    ATCOEQUIP it does have four terminals on it .I don't know if the motor controller has an LED flash code indicator on it.I will have to go back and look it .I had someone try to drive it while I checked to see if power was going to motor .I only checked one of the terminals it was getting dark. I had power on one of the terminal .Did not check the others. Seams like moter may be no good or may not be getting a ground. But did not know how it worked .Please let me know.
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2010
  7. willie59

    willie59 Administrator

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2008
    Messages:
    12,814
    Occupation:
    Service Manager
    Location:
    Knoxville TN
    On most electric drives, the motor controller controls the ground for the drive motor/motors. They typically allow full positive voltage to the motor and varies the amount of ground thereby controlling drive speed. No way that I know that you can test the motor controller. You can do continuity test on the drive motor. Remove the cables from the four terminals, be sure and mark the cables so you know where they connect. Now, your terminal markings might be different, but you take a multitester set on ohms, or continuity beep if your tester has that,

    connect test leads to F1 and F2, should have continuity

    connect to A1 and A2, should have continuity

    connect to A1 and F1, then A1 and F2, should have no continuity

    connect A2 and F1, then A2 and F2, no continuity

    connect lead to A1 and other lead to motor case (scratch through paint), should have no continuity

    do the same on other terminals, A2, F1, F2 with one lead and other lead to motor case, no continuity
     
  8. tool_king

    tool_king Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2010
    Messages:
    1,968
    Occupation:
    road mechanic owner
    Location:
    new jersey
    should I use two meters to do this?


    connect to A1 and F1, then A1 and F2, should have no continuity

    connect A2 and F1, then A2 and F2, no continuity
     
  9. willie59

    willie59 Administrator

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2008
    Messages:
    12,814
    Occupation:
    Service Manager
    Location:
    Knoxville TN

    Nope, just one meter required. :)

    Again, your terminal letter designations may be different, but the nuts and bolts of what we are doing is testing for a short between the field windings and armature windings of the motor. A indicates armature terminals (A1 and A2), F indicates the field terminals (F1 and F2). There should be no continuity between armature and field terminals. Likewise, there should be no continuity between any of the terminals, A or F, and the motor case indicating a short to frame.
     
  10. tool_king

    tool_king Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2010
    Messages:
    1,968
    Occupation:
    road mechanic owner
    Location:
    new jersey
    OK .I got it now .I have never tested one of these motors before.Thank you for the info .I will let you know what I find. On the motor controller , if it is bad do you know were to get one? Do you know if Grove is still making boom lifts and scissor lifts?Do you have phone number for Grove lifts?
     
  11. willie59

    willie59 Administrator

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2008
    Messages:
    12,814
    Occupation:
    Service Manager
    Location:
    Knoxville TN
    I don't know what motor controller you have, Sevcon, GE SCR, and a number of other brands. Tell ya what, give Hindley a call and ask them about it. You can do a google search and find Hindley Electronics. Not long ago, they arrainged having a Sevcon tested for me for a Terex lift. They know the connections for this type of stuff. I don't think Grove is mfg aerial lifts anymore, can't say for sure though. You could also call Eric at Best Line Equipment in Shippensburg PA for info, he knows a lot about Grove and JLG machines out of PA. 1-888-321-3217. He's been a great help to me over the years. He's even provided me with Grove schematics in the past. Tell him Paul from ATCO Equipment referred you to him. And be sure to contact Hindley for having your motor controller checked out. :)
     
  12. tool_king

    tool_king Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2010
    Messages:
    1,968
    Occupation:
    road mechanic owner
    Location:
    new jersey
    Thank you Paul for the info.
     
  13. willie59

    willie59 Administrator

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2008
    Messages:
    12,814
    Occupation:
    Service Manager
    Location:
    Knoxville TN
    Your welcome. :)

    I just wish I knew more about your machine. And I don't think Grove has anything online about these machines. It would be a bummer if nothing on the machine gave you a code as to what might be the problem. Either a flashing LED lamp on the motor controller, or a circuit card inside the lower control box, man, surely they provided something. :Banghead

    Another thing you might check is if it has a tach generator drive on the drive motor. This is typically a little gizmo attached to the end of the drive motor that is operated by the motor shaft when it's turning. The purpose of the tach drive is provide a motor turning input to the motor controller, this is the only way the motor contoller knows the motor is turning. If the tach drive has come loose, or the components that turn it are ripped loose, the motor contoller will lock out the drive function because it thinks the motor is not turning when drive signal is sent to motor.
     
  14. tool_king

    tool_king Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2010
    Messages:
    1,968
    Occupation:
    road mechanic owner
    Location:
    new jersey
    Thank you for this info.I have to go back to the lift and check it ferther.After the rain stops.
     
  15. tool_king

    tool_king Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2010
    Messages:
    1,968
    Occupation:
    road mechanic owner
    Location:
    new jersey
    Pual I finally put the tach generator drive on the drive motor.Now the unit moves but if you go all the way with the joy stick it will lock the machine up .You have to move the joystick a quarter to half speed to go .Any ideas? I aslo going the pick Eric's brain at Best Line .
     
  16. willie59

    willie59 Administrator

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2008
    Messages:
    12,814
    Occupation:
    Service Manager
    Location:
    Knoxville TN
    Ok, just to be certain, did you replace the tach generator on the drive motor?

    If so, it wouldn't drive at all before, you then replaced tach drive, now it will drive?
     
  17. tool_king

    tool_king Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2010
    Messages:
    1,968
    Occupation:
    road mechanic owner
    Location:
    new jersey
    Yes I did replace the tach drive.It drives forwards and backwards now .But only at low speed.If you push the joystick all the way forward or reverse unit will travel at high speed for three feet than lock up.Like you bput the brackes on .
     
  18. willie59

    willie59 Administrator

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2008
    Messages:
    12,814
    Occupation:
    Service Manager
    Location:
    Knoxville TN
    Well, I'm at a bit of a loss on that one, I don't know enough about your machine to have a good guess what is causing that, very odd though. The fact that it goes about three feet in high drive, in both directions, indicates the high drive control components are functional, joystick, wiring, circuit boards, drive motors, etc.

    I really don't have a good suggestion for that problem. My first thought is it's something that the motor controller is sensing. I'm wondering if you have a battery or battery cable problem. The motor controller monitors battery input voltage. If during any drive operation the battery voltage goes below a certain level, the motor controller will shut down the drive system to prevent low voltage damage to motors.

    I can't remember if you mentioned if it was a 2wd or 4wd machine. If it's 2wd, try connecting a volt meter to the battery master positive and master negative and check that you have 48V +/-. Jack the drive axle off the ground, operate the drive lever in low speed, monitor your battery voltage on the meter, then engage high drive and monitor the voltage. If the voltage doesn't drop considerably, and it still locks out drive after a few moments in high drive, then I'm running out of ideas.
     
  19. John C.

    John C. Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2007
    Messages:
    11,536
    Occupation:
    Machinery & Equipment Appraiser
    Location:
    Northwest
    I worked on one like this a few years ago and found the wiring harness from the basket down to the control panel was bad. The travel would work one way and not the other. Once in awhile the steering would just go to one side and stay there over relief. Shut the machine down wait a few minutes and go back to work until it happened again.

    The one I worked on was a 60 footer and had two harnesses. Anyway there was the green stuff inside the cannon plugs at the basket and when I started cutting back to clean area I had no room left to pull wire and redo the cannon plug.

    When I pulled the cables out I cut into the middle and had water running out. When I talked to the dealer guys they said that was common on the old units. Water would get in and soak through the insulation and the signals would cross over. As I recall there were 12 wires per cable.

    New cables from Grove were expensive beyond reason so I found a supplier of generic multi-conducter cable for about a third of the price. I wired the new lines in and made a new diagram for the owner and I haven't heard of a problems since.

    I'm not saying this is your problem but it sounds like what I went through. Have you pulled the cannon plugs apart and checked the wire connections?
     
  20. tool_king

    tool_king Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2010
    Messages:
    1,968
    Occupation:
    road mechanic owner
    Location:
    new jersey
    Thank you guys for all the info .I will have to check it out when go back to the machine The batteries might have bin a little low when I was testing it out .I had to drive the machine sixty feet to get it in to the shop with the tack drive disconnected .Move a foot and lock out.Reset and do it again.