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Grizzly Trucks

John Shipp

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Mar 5, 2015
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643
Location
England
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forestry contracting
What a great surprise, that he thought to send it all over. Good to see some original shots, thanks.
 

Bumpsteer

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Sep 2, 2009
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1,342
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Front seat on the Struggle Bus
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Mechanical designer
Looks like at some point they started to use Dodge dana axles & rims, probably a np205 transfer case also.

I see both Warn & Selectro locking hubs.....

Ed
 

diamondtguy

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Feb 4, 2011
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1,473
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Mapleridge..BC
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machine fitter/fabricator
I have some Grizzly sales brochures with all the parts/options and yes it was a NP205 T/case.I have one in mine but its a Ford one with drivers side drop.The blue truck seen in Gibsons from time to time is also a left side drop.Most of them appear to be right side drop (Dodge/Chevy)
There are lots of rumors and internet storys that Grizzlys were rebodied Dodge trucks.Engines and axels maybe but I don't know about frames.The dually truck the RCMP had that has now been changed again (Gibsons truck) has a Ford 4x4 chassis and a 7.3 in it according to the info I have from when it was for sale at one point.Add claimed Grizzly did the conversion.Dont know from what tho...

Had some people here a year ago to purchase a rare Ford V8 that I have and he saw the truck and the first thing he said was it was a rebodied Dodge.I told him if he could find one pc of Dodge on my truck that I would give him the engine for free..I still have the engine...
By my count there are pictures of 12 of the Grizzly trucks built on this thread now.Three of those trucks are MIA and there maybe one or two more to find pictures of..Still some leads to follow up on...
 

Bumpsteer

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Front seat on the Struggle Bus
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I doubt they are a rebody also. Just sourced the same axles. Dodge was using a d60 front, d70 rear, np205 at that time in the diesels.

t-case was the right drop, Grizz go with a divorced, t-case? Would make different engine / trans options easier to build.

Wheels, oem replacment, hubcaps could've been bought at the Dodge dealer.

Girzzly's were longer than a regular truck, make no sense to cobble a frame.

Front shock geometry doesn't match a Dodge either, my 92 w350 single wheel is in front of me now.....

The silver truck has the Selectro locking hubs, they went away in 89 or 90. They take a different front hub than a Warn lockout. Actually they are full time hubs, with a lockout instead of a splined end cap. I have all 3.

What was the most common engine / trans Grizzly's came with?

Ed
 

diamondtguy

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machine fitter/fabricator
I put a married t/case in mine but cant speak for the other trucks.I think the most common engine was the Cummins 6.9.The big Black one in Qualicum was built new with a 300 I6 Ford (has a Perkins now) and I thing a couple have 7.3 Fords.
Grizzly spec sheets say 205 t/case dana 60 front and dana 70 rear.
I believe the rumors of them being rebodied Dodges stems from other rumors of them stripping new trucks for parts....Just rumors to me..
I don't buy the Dodge frame thing either.To many variables with options.Also my frame is a very simple easy to build 3x5 box tube ladder style.Easy to do and its just a couple of measurement changes for different wheel base or drivetrain layouts..

Bumpsteer...thanks for the feedback
 

diamondtguy

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Mapleridge..BC
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machine fitter/fabricator
A few more things from Stephen Ogden..I have invited him to jump on board here and share his memories ..
Not sure how he got his hands on a artists concept picture..but its cool.Nice because I somehow ended up with the concept picture of the new Pacific hwy trucks after International left and we ditched the IH cab and we used our own cabs on all the trucks

IMG_0002.jpg IMG_0003.jpg IMG_0005 (2).jpg
 

Bumpsteer

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Front seat on the Struggle Bus
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Mechanical designer
Looking at the pics of Art's truck, you can see the frame is straight over the front axle. Their own frame for sure.

Back in the day, one of the truck magazines had a little write up about Grizzly being a new truck mfgr., had a little pic of your truck.......

Never had a Grizzly dealer open, so I bought my Dodge. Couldn't afford it anyway, now seeing what the prices were. My Dodge has 4 options...lol.

Ed
 

diamondtguy

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This is going to turn into a question....
Truck has a crossflow radiator.4 core aluminum,with steel tanks.Bolted together with stainless 10/32 button heads with nylocks.Gasket is some sort of rubber.This is the way it was built.I did not touch it...When I installed it in the summer I pressure tested the system and it was good.I have noticed that in the freezing temps the rad leaks a bit at its seams..Only when it is freezing out..
Obviously the mix of metals are not contracting at the same rate.The steel tanks are bolted to the truck...
When I picture all of this in my head I see the steel tanks shrinking away from the core and the core shrinking towards the center thus actually stretching the little 10/32 bolts.Unless they were all a tad loose...It wouldn't take much..
Thinking I may have to pull the rad,warm it up in my shop and retighten all the bolts.I doubt the bolts have never seize on them.At this point changing them might be a good idea.(and a fricken headache)

Thoughts ,Opinions,Ideas,shtuff 006.JPG shtuff 007.JPG ??????
 

Jumbo

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Black Diamond WA
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10-32 screws (that many) should not be an issue. A 10-32 grade 1 is 1200# tensile strength, and that many should not stretch enough to leak I would think.
I may be incorrect (usually I am,) but if you were to re-torque everything wouldn't you want to do it when it was cold? With everything shrunk up so to speak, when the different parts got warm, they would expand into each other and seal up better I would think. Is there any chance the radiator could mount on isolators allowing the radiator to "flex?"
 

diamondtguy

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Yes..I have thought of making my own aluminum tanks to get rid of the dissimilar metals.
Jumbo....I am thinking warm because the bolts would be there longest and would apply more torque when they shrink
 

hvy 1ton

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Lawrence, KS
Aluminum shrinks at a much faster rate than steel. With all those bolts i wouldn't think it would be a problem. Maybe the aluminum shrinking too much radially is doing something?
 

Hallback

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As the others have said torque it down when it is cold but check the bolts for stretch and flanges for square.
 

Jumbo

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A 10-32 is the largest screw you can stretch with a screw driver. that is why ground screws in electrical work are 10-32, big yet still stretch to get a positive bond on electrical equipment. Just an odd fact from 40 years in the electrical trade.
 

lg junior

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Feb 25, 2011
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205
Location
oregon
Just looking at your pictures of the radiator. I haven't ever seen a gasket that thick on a bolted radiator. All the ones that I have and have worked on used thin cork gaskets. Could it be that the rubber just shrinks way more than what the torque on the bolts can provide. Be curious how you resolve the problem. Awesome work, looking forward to more.
 

49pacific

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Jan 18, 2013
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port alberni
It is a big job to remove all the bolts but I would be inclined to change the gasket and clean both surfaces. Hayes clippers and the early pacfics and many other trucks used aluminum tanks with steel mounts on there cores. That rad is more than likely original so cleaning up the rad tank flange wouldn't hurt and all new bolts and new gaskets would be all it would take
 

diamondtguy

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The gasket is indeed very thick and I never considered that it may be shrinking.I built lots of Pacific rads and the gasket was maybe 1/8 thick...
Finding new gaskets would be a challenge but I could always have them made out of something different.
I am inclined to order some new bolts and just rip it all apart.I am going to talk to the engineer at work and see what his thoughts are..
I am going to go flip the nose and have a better look .

Thanks for the feedback and ideas.
 

lg junior

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Feb 25, 2011
Messages
205
Location
oregon
Last radiator I had apart the gasket came in a roll. Sticky on one side. I just overlapped the corners and pushed the bolts through. Old guy in the radiator shop just gave me part of a roll because he didn't have time to look at it. Probably because I'd brought in enough junk in the past.
 

diamondtguy

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Three quarters of the front of the rad is covered by the intercooler but I got in there and tightened all the bolts on the lower 8". The leak appears to have stopped or slowed to almost nothing.I also tightened all the bolts on the engine side.I got about 1/4 of a turn out of them with using a std 3/8 wrench..I have emptied the drip tray and will keep a eye on it.
Intercooler will get pulled and I'll check all the other bolts when it warms up a bit.
Still going to do some research..
 
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