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Ford LRG - 425 starting problem

DavidL

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2017
Messages
45
Location
Michigan
Mine doesn't have a map...parts diagram doesn't call for one. I thought that might be part of the ECU retrofit kit.
 

Birken Vogt

Charter Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2003
Messages
5,320
Location
Grass Valley, Ca
On the generator engines I work on I see the tube for the MAP but have never seen one hooked up so they either just use the same body for the ignition controller without MAP installed or they just run it fully retarded all the time, with the timing fixed.
 

DavidL

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2017
Messages
45
Location
Michigan
According to my manual...the timing is adjusted by engine temp and rpm alone (from memory).
 

CharlieVT

Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Messages
18
Location
New England
Okay Gents,
My ignition problem solved. Thanks for the replies and suggestions.
Picture of the old ignition module I removed, not easy to see in this pic, but partly hidden from view is the nipple for connecting vacuum hose, so the "MAP" was built into this unit. (I hadn't thought of this vacuum connection as a MAP sensor) :ManliftOldESC.JPG

This one module was replaced by three items, new spark control module, a stand-alone unit for the vacuum connection, and wiring harness that connected to these new units, the original wiring harness connector for the module that was removed, and a new connector to the crankshaft position sensor.

The original wiring harness connector for the crankshaft position sensor was unplugged and taped off, unused.
There was one unused connector on the new wiring harness. I suspect this harness is used for both carbureted (as mine is), and fuel injected versions of this engine. I suspect that this one unused connector would be used to connect to fuel injection circuitry in the case of a fuel injected engine.
Picture of the new components: ManliftNewESC.JPG

The parts came without any installation instructions, but the Gentleman at Powertech Engines told me about the need to connect to the crankshaft position sensor and disconnect the original wiring, and that there would be an unused connector on the harness. With that info, it was easy to match up all the other connectors.
Again, thanks for the suggestions.
Hope my post helps someone in the future with similar problem.
 
Last edited:

DavidL

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2017
Messages
45
Location
Michigan
I am starting to think I might need the same ECU...mine also has starting issues and still like a light switch go from running perfect to backfiring, rough running until it dies with some black exhaust smoke. Seems to be better under load. Much better since replacing the crank position sensor, but it's still not reliable. What was the final price you paid for the wiring kit and ECU? Thanx!
 

CharlieVT

Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Messages
18
Location
New England
I am starting to think I might need the same ECU...mine also has starting issues and still like a light switch go from running perfect to backfiring, rough running until it dies with some black exhaust smoke. Seems to be better under load. Much better since replacing the crank position sensor, but it's still not reliable. What was the final price you paid for the wiring kit and ECU? Thanx!

Powertech Engines in Fresno $800+
I got other quotes, all over $1000. Some outfits replied with a parts list to replace my original ESC but then said they didn't have everything in stock.
Powertech doesn't take a credit card over the phone. Only COD with cashier's check or money order. That's one way they save costs.
The Gent I spoke with was friendly and helpful. Item was processed for shipment same day and I got email with shipping info. Since I am in VT and item shipped from CA it took a few days to get here by UPS surface.
HTH
 

DavidL

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2017
Messages
45
Location
Michigan
I called powertech...spoke to Kim...very helpful. I have the same original module as you...but my map line apparently was broken off and someone before me must have taken off the vacuum line...
Ordered the update kit. This would answer quite a few questions on hard start, stall, backfire, fuel economy etc on my unit. Thanx for providing the contact info!
 

GTRClive

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2017
Messages
8
Location
Calgary
I might have a similar issue, but it won't start at all, just back fires and seems like the timing is of....... Can you tack a picture or right down the firing order of the coil pack for us as the order seems all wrong....
 

CharlieVT

Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Messages
18
Location
New England
While we are on the subject of cam timing, how important is it to change the timing belt? My 425 has relatively low hours, but is a 1999 so getting old.
I think I read that this is an interfering engine, so was thinking maybe I should put in a new belt as preventive maintenance?
Your opinion please.
 

Birken Vogt

Charter Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2003
Messages
5,320
Location
Grass Valley, Ca
It is not an interference engine as far as I know. One I take care of shredded the timing belt and no harm done. It is pretty easy to change if you have room. You need a flat plate puller for the crank pulley and other than that it's just some bolts.
 

GTRClive

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2017
Messages
8
Location
Calgary
Wobily tensioner is my best guess.... came in the timing belt kit for a 01 Ford Ranger, so cheap fix really $100 all in
 

Brian Konicki

New Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2019
Messages
1
Location
NorthEast
I just had a similar issue with my LRG-425 gasoline not starting due to spark. I found the now obsolete UESC with the built in MAP sensor to be ok. a check on the harness was ok as well. Problem was in the Murphy switch. Replaced the magnetic switch and all is well. It had me for a while in a no spark condition.
 

hmedic

Member
Joined
May 27, 2019
Messages
13
Location
Kentucky
Hey guys... I have a 97 jlg with a 423 giving no spark... I appear to have all the updated stuff...but where is this Mercury switch spoken of? I got what appears to be no spark or fuel at the moment... Has not been ran for a couple years as I was told. Any help or trouble shoots would be appreciated
 

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FREDrED

New Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2020
Messages
1
Location
Colbert, Oklahoma
Okay Gents,
My ignition problem solved. Thanks for the replies and suggestions.
Picture of the old ignition module I removed, not easy to see in this pic, but partly hidden from view is the nipple for connecting vacuum hose, so the "MAP" was built into this unit. (I hadn't thought of this vacuum connection as a MAP sensor) :View attachment 172516

This one module was replaced by three items, new spark control module, a stand-alone unit for the vacuum connection, and wiring harness that connected to these new units, the original wiring harness connector for the module that was removed, and a new connector to the crankshaft position sensor.

The original wiring harness connector for the crankshaft position sensor was unplugged and taped off, unused.
There was one unused connector on the new wiring harness. I suspect this harness is used for both carbureted (as mine is), and fuel injected versions of this engine. I suspect that this one unused connector would be used to connect to fuel injection circuitry in the case of a fuel injected engine.
Picture of the new components: View attachment 172517

The parts came without any installation instructions, but the Gentleman at Powertech Engines told me about the need to connect to the crankshaft position sensor and disconnect the original wiring, and that there would be an unused connector on the harness. With that info, it was easy to match up all the other connectors.
Again, thanks for the suggestions.
Hope my post helps someone in the future with similar problem.

Thank You for your post Charlie VT!
i bought an old 1999 AMZ68XT & I have been getting an education slowly on these machines.
This one was garage kept so better shape than most but, it definitely has it's issues to keep you guessing about the engineer who designed it.
I won't bore you a list of the other titles I've called him while troubleshooting his choice of parts used in building it.
My main issue is the driving it down the road in one direction all's pretty good but try to go forward too fast from the stick in the UCB it loads the engine down & stalls out.
On this machine can you tell me is it necessary to have the main boom down on the cradle to drive it at higher speeds?
 

DavidL

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2017
Messages
45
Location
Michigan
On mine you don't have to be in the cradle, but down low for high speed to be allowed.
 
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