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Ford 555E Hard to Start - Fix Video

Nick350

Active Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2018
Messages
40
Location
Tn
I have owned a 1998 Ford New Holland 555E for 3.5 years and it has always been a pain in the ass to start. Even with a new & freshly charged battery it would almost never start just turn over very slowly. It would need extra boost from jumper cables or a starter box to actually turn over fast enough to start.

I read online that these machines were poor starters and people just dealt with it. I tried replacing the leads multiple times to no avail (the wire didn't look bad in the sheathing) I also swapped an alternator to ensure the battery was charged enough but that also didn't fix it.

In the end I ran all new cables from the battery to the starter (and ended up putting a new starter in it) and it starts like a dream. It sat for over 1 month in the cold and fired right up on the chilly morning which we finished the repairs.

Here is a video on the repair, I hope it helps someone out

 

berky

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2017
Messages
84
Location
Indiana
My best guess is that it was the starter all along. Can't tell you how many pieces of equipment I have worked on where the owner said it was hard to start and it turned out to be a "bad" starter. Thing is, the starter was doing its job just fine till individuals were trying to improperly use it. Bad batteries and extended cranking time can really cause them to start to break down internally. I use a DC amp clamp (1000A) to get a feeling for the load being drawn by the starter. I usually can take the starter apart clean it up, turn the commutator, new carbons sometimes, relube the bearings and its ready to go. If the windings show signs of being burnt, I just put a new one on though.
 

Nick350

Active Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2018
Messages
40
Location
Tn
I definitely think the new starter contributed to it turning over better but after just swapping the negative cable to the battery disconnect, it turned over faster then it ever had.

I wouldn’t of swapped the starter if my replacement solenoid would of fit.
 

cosmaar1

Senior Member
Joined
May 14, 2020
Messages
512
Location
Ohio
I have owned a 1998 Ford New Holland 555E for 3.5 years and it has always been a pain in the ass to start. Even with a new & freshly charged battery it would almost never start just turn over very slowly. It would need extra boost from jumper cables or a starter box to actually turn over fast enough to start.

I read online that these machines were poor starters and people just dealt with it. I tried replacing the leads multiple times to no avail (the wire didn't look bad in the sheathing) I also swapped an alternator to ensure the battery was charged enough but that also didn't fix it.

In the end I ran all new cables from the battery to the starter (and ended up putting a new starter in it) and it starts like a dream. It sat for over 1 month in the cold and fired right up on the chilly morning which we finished the repairs.

Here is a video on the repair, I hope it helps someone out

Funny enough I brought my 555e home this winter specifically for this project (along with a few others). Appreciate the insight as always. Keep breaking stuff so I can watch other fixes I might have to perform! Just kidding!!!! ;)
 

NH575E

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2015
Messages
1,188
Location
North, FL
Occupation
Retired Machinist
I went through all of that. New alternator, starter, cable ends. Still had to jump it off in the cold. I had new 2/0 cables made, bypassed the negative cut off switch, and installed a new group 31 battery. Spins like a top.
 

Swetz

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2019
Messages
1,370
Location
NJ/PA
Occupation
Electric & Gas Company
Nick,

Thanks for the post!

Do you recall how many feet of wire you used for the changeover? Also, how many connectors, and what size? My battery has 3/8" studs, so I know those ends, but what about the rest?

I plan to do this in the future, and would like to have the stuff on hand prior to the job.
 

Nick350

Active Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2018
Messages
40
Location
Tn
Nick,

Thanks for the post!

Do you recall how many feet of wire you used for the changeover? Also, how many connectors, and what size? My battery has 3/8" studs, so I know those ends, but what about the rest?

I plan to do this in the future, and would like to have the stuff on hand prior to the job.

we bought 12ft of wire, there is a screenshot of everything we bought (connectors, cables etc) at 1:12 in the vid
 

Swetz

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Oct 31, 2019
Messages
1,370
Location
NJ/PA
Occupation
Electric & Gas Company
we bought 12ft of wire, there is a screenshot of everything we bought (connectors, cables etc) at 1:12 in the vid

Thank you!

Not sure how I missed this when I watched the video, but that is exactly what I needed:):).
 

NH575E

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2015
Messages
1,188
Location
North, FL
Occupation
Retired Machinist
My old cables are hanging in the barn. I meant to measure them today but got side tracked. Will try to remember to do it tomorrow.
 

cosmaar1

Senior Member
Joined
May 14, 2020
Messages
512
Location
Ohio
I have owned a 1998 Ford New Holland 555E for 3.5 years and it has always been a pain in the ass to start. Even with a new & freshly charged battery it would almost never start just turn over very slowly. It would need extra boost from jumper cables or a starter box to actually turn over fast enough to start.

I read online that these machines were poor starters and people just dealt with it. I tried replacing the leads multiple times to no avail (the wire didn't look bad in the sheathing) I also swapped an alternator to ensure the battery was charged enough but that also didn't fix it.

In the end I ran all new cables from the battery to the starter (and ended up putting a new starter in it) and it starts like a dream. It sat for over 1 month in the cold and fired right up on the chilly morning which we finished the repairs.

Here is a video on the repair, I hope it helps someone out

One tip for those that are going to attempt this….

I took my cables off tonight so I can get lengths and order new ones. To make things A LOT easier, if you remove the whole fuel filter and filter housing, it is much easier to access the cables.

Not sure if this matters either, but from the looks of your order, you got 1/0 cable. From everything I’ve looked at, it says 2/0 should be used. I’m not saying that my research is correct, but that’s what I’m going with. I’m also buying marine cable for extra good measure.
 

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Nick350

Active Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2018
Messages
40
Location
Tn
One tip for those that are going to attempt this….

I took my cables off tonight so I can get lengths and order new ones. To make things A LOT easier, if you remove the whole fuel filter and filter housing, it is much easier to access the cables.

Not sure if this matters either, but from the looks of your order, you got 1/0 cable. From everything I’ve looked at, it says 2/0 should be used. I’m not saying that my research is correct, but that’s what I’m going with. I’m also buying marine cable for extra good measure.

I checked the manual / looked up the part number and could not find a gauge for the wire so we measured what was currently on there, with a caliber, and at it was 1/0. So that's what I used to replace it, works great.
 

cosmaar1

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May 14, 2020
Messages
512
Location
Ohio
I checked the manual / looked up the part number and could not find a gauge for the wire so we measured what was currently on there, with a caliber, and at it was 1/0. So that's what I used to replace it, works great.
Good to hear. I’m hoping my change out will make things a lot better also! Good work!
 

NH575E

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North, FL
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Retired Machinist
Screenshot_20230206-091951~2.png Can't go wrong using heavier cable.

I used 2/0 on mine and it looks to be the same gauge I removed.

My old positive cable is a little over 5 ft long. The negatives were 5 ft and 2 ft. I removed my cut off switch and went direct from battery to starter. The short cable from the switch reached the frame to starter so I reused that. I also had a negative cable that went from the cab to a starter mount bolt. Both cab and engine being rubber isolated need grounding.
 
Last edited:

cosmaar1

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May 14, 2020
Messages
512
Location
Ohio
View attachment 279501 Can't go wrong using heavier cable.

I used 2/0 on mine and it looks to be the same gauge I removed.

My old positive cable is a little over 5 ft long. The negatives were 5 ft and 2 ft. I removed my cut off switch and went direct from battery to starter. The short cable from the switch reached the frame to starter so I reused that. I also had a negative cable that went from the cab to a starter mount bolt. Both cab and engine being rubber isolated need grounding.
I couldn’t find one directly from the block to the frame. I just found the others you mentioned. Do you remember where approximately that one was?
 

NH575E

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I couldn’t find one directly from the block to the frame. I just found the others you mentioned. Do you remember where approximately that one was?

It's been a while but seems it had a cable from the battery to the cutoff switch. On the other post of the switch it had a cable to the starter ground post and a braided cable to the frame.

I'm not on my PC but looking up the parts might shed some light on it.
 

NH575E

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Retired Machinist
Single battery ground shows 2 braided cables connected at the frame. One goes to starter and the other goes to the cutout switch. When I replaced mine I just attached the new longer ground cable at the starter and reused the original braided cable going to the frame.

single-battery-ground.jpg

FYI, for those switching from top mount battery to threaded post type, the starter connections for power and ground are 5/16". The battery ends will be 3/8".
 

Swetz

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FYI, for those switching from top mount battery to threaded post type, the starter connections for power and ground are 5/16". The battery ends will be 3/8".

TY for that!
 

cosmaar1

Senior Member
Joined
May 14, 2020
Messages
512
Location
Ohio
Single battery ground shows 2 braided cables connected at the frame. One goes to starter and the other goes to the cutout switch. When I replaced mine I just attached the new longer ground cable at the starter and reused the original braided cable going to the frame.

View attachment 279586

FYI, for those switching from top mount battery to threaded post type, the starter connections for power and ground are 5/16". The battery ends will be 3/8".
This was exactly my set up. The 3 cable ground. I’m keeping the setup as is, just replacing all cables.


Don’t forget the starter positive is a 90 degree lug!
 

Honcho

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Joined
Apr 16, 2016
Messages
249
Location
Russia
Hi fellas. I don t realy think that it is a starter problem. If starter turns engine and it wount start, first thing to check is if the fuel gets sucked back to tank due , ventilation valve got stuck shut, second plugs if it is cold outside, third preasure is bad in cilinder-- piston group. There ofcourse might be other issues like bad filter, or air in the fuel line. / First thing I d do a fuel preasure before the fuel pump. You may install an electric low preasure fuel pump. I think 1psi is enouth. If it wont work , check the tightness of fuel lines. And then check the preasure in cilinder if it is lower than 24 bar. It will never start well.
 

Honcho

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Apr 16, 2016
Messages
249
Location
Russia
You may install an electric low preasure fuel pump. --- I meant an additional pump before main one.
 
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