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Ford 4500

willie59

Administrator
Joined
Dec 21, 2008
Messages
13,392
Location
Knoxville TN
Occupation
Service Manager
Gotta thank Phil...he's the one who lead you there. ;)


My son was operating the machine at the time and if he was doing something stupid he-aint-talking.

Nothing unusual there. :D
 

willie59

Administrator
Joined
Dec 21, 2008
Messages
13,392
Location
Knoxville TN
Occupation
Service Manager
Hey Phil, Many thanks!!!!!!!!!
Just signed up for this forum, Gotta get use to how to get arround

Welcome to the forum 64eman. :usa

Phil is a handy guy. Just gotta catch him before 9 PM, that's his recharge time. :D
 

Phil

Senior Member
Joined
May 2, 2005
Messages
1,067
Location
Southeastern Ontario
Occupation
retired operator and mechanic
Thanks for jumping in on this one ATCOEQUIP, just a lucky guess on my part:rolleyes:. I don't have a lot of experience with hydraulic systems and I felt this chap needed your advice. Talk to you later, Phil:)
 

Ranchand

New Member
Joined
May 18, 2009
Messages
1
Location
Spokane, Wa
Hey guys, I've had a '67 4500 for about a year now and have gone through some of the same issues posted on this thread. One simple thing I had trouble figuring was how to cap the hydraulic lines. For those who haven't doen it yet you take one line off at the machine and the other off at the hoe connecting them back to form a loop. As for the return line(the big fat one), you remove this at the tractor side and loop it back to a plug that should be welded inside the upper right hand corner of the hoe frame(above the right cylinder). On this plug should be a cap to put on the tractor. It is very simple but I wasted alot of time trying to figure it out. I would post pics but it appears I am not aloud.
As far as the swing cylinders go, if there is fluid building up in that cross-over line rebuild the cylinders. Mine got to the point of blowing out the line and covering me and the tractor with oil. Plus with the seals shot your in danger of damaging the inside of the cylinder.
This thread has been the most helpful thing I have found on my tractor and I thank all you guys.
 

Phil

Senior Member
Joined
May 2, 2005
Messages
1,067
Location
Southeastern Ontario
Occupation
retired operator and mechanic
Welcome Ranchand,
You are right about the confusing line rearrangement when it comes time to remove the hoe. I got a page printed off from a farm dealer showing the layout and was able to figure it out from there. I believe you have to have more than 5 posts before you can start your own thread, complete with pictures. Phil
 

Ford2000/4500

New Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2010
Messages
2
Location
Hampstead, MD
Hydrolics help

We just inherited a 4500 and cant keep hydrolic oil in it. as hydrolic gets lower, engine oil goes up. I believe it is a 1964 3 cyl diesel.

Where is the Hydrolic pump? is there a gasket between the pump and the engine block?

otherwise runs great and is in good condition.
 

mitch504

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
5,776
Location
Andrews SC
Do you have a backhoe or three point hitch? If you have a 3ph the pump for that is on the left side rear of engine, it is lubed by engine oil, and when the internal seals go bad it can do that. If you have a backhoe it runs off the loader pump, which is in the front and driven by a shaft, not direct from engine.

Thinking about it; does your powersteering pump have it's own reservoir?; some do, most use main hyd. tank. The powersteering pump is on the front left of engine, and driven by timing gears. It is a possibility if it uses main reservoir.
 

martychi

New Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
3
Location
NE PA
my 4500 will not start, suspect fuel delivery, checked all below this thread...

Phil,
can I add an electric pump (upstream from the factory manual pump, of course) to this backhoe?
marty

Ford 4500,
See if you can get fuel coming out of the bleed screw out on your injection pump(see pic 5), as part of the bleeding process.

Make sure your manual shut -off lever is in the forward position, usually the cable pulls it to the rear to shut fuel off.

Failing to get fuel from the injector lines, I would be tempted to pull the pump cover off, carefully, and check the fuel metering valve for free movement. Note that the cover should be cleaned beforehand, think clean when you are doing this. Be careful of the cover gasket and note the location of the spring before you unhook/rehook it. Also when reassembling the cover, the fuel shut-off lever has to engage a 'hook'(pic 4). Take your time.

You will be working in diesel fuel unless you drain the pump housing. There maybe a cover on the side of the pump, so you can drain some fuel off, or you may choose to check the valve, under 'water'.

The valve must rotate freely with the slightest touch.

I've included a picture of a old CAV pump with no housing so you can see the valve. The complete pump in the first picture is a newer CAV pump with solenoid shut-off. I won't add any notes to the pictures, I think it's self explanatory. Phil
 

mitch504

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
5,776
Location
Andrews SC
Martychi, an electric pump won't help, the fuel is delivered to the injector pump by gravity. The injector pump pressurises the fuel to a few thousand psi, and delivers it at exactly the right time. The way the spark determines the timing on a gas engine, injector pump does on a diesel.

If you loosen the 5/16 headed bleed screw on the side of the pump, and spin the engine, do you get a good stream of fuel, with no bubbles?

Once you do, loosen all the injector lines on top of the engine, near the valve cover, a few turns and spin the engine again, untill you see clear fuel with no bubbles. Once you see clear fuel, tighten the lines while it is spinning.

BE VERY CAREFUL, AND TOUCH THE LINE NUTS WITH A WRENCH ONLY! DO NOT USE YOUR HANDS! THE FUEL CAN BE INJECTED UNDER YOUR SKIN AT HIGH PRESSURE, AND CAUSE LOSS OF FINGERS!
 

Tinkerer

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
9,367
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
trevor b, We haven't heard from Phil since Dec. 09,2010. It has been suggested we start a --Where Is Phil thread. I would do it but worry that his identity may be exposed. I am sure a lot of members prefer to keep their identity unknown on a public discussion forum.
 

martychi

New Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
3
Location
NE PA
this 4500 ford hoe was working fine about 3 weeks ago...

Martychi, an electric pump won't help,...

If you loosen the 5/16 headed bleed screw on the side of the pump, and spin the engine, do you get a good stream of fuel, with no bubbles? yep, i do now...

Once you do, loosen all the injector lines on top of the engine, near the valve cover, a few turns and spin the engine again, untill you see clear fuel with no bubbles...no cannot get fuel at the injector lines on top of the engine...

i have even removed injectors and reattached the fuel tubes with the entire injectors visible and not mounted to engine..why? 1.) to take a load off my starter...can now spin engine quite easily. 2.) to observe the injector spray pattern for complete verification of fuel delivery: of course, i do have the tube jam nuts loose until i see fuel at this point...so is my injector pump not pumping? is there any more tests i can try before tearing apart this pump? last time this ran, i noticed fuel tank was getting very low and it did actually stall on me, but i was able to restart it and drive 20 feet and parked it...wish i let it idle while i ran to get more fuel...could this just be an air lock problem?
 

mitch504

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
5,776
Location
Andrews SC
These engines are bad about getting air locked.

Getting back to that pump bleeder screw, when you spin the engine, the fuel should spray 3-6 feet.

If you take the injectors off the lines, do you get any fuel when you spin the engine?

Just checking: you do have the fuel shut off lever at the front on top of the pump in the forward position; and, when you move it back and forth, does it feel like it is hooked to something?

When you are bleeding this engine the throttle should be full open.

Before I disassembled anything on the pump, I would want to be certain that there was plenty of fuel getting to it. Have you changed the fuel filter? You may want to blow back through the lines into the tank, because these machines are bad about getting clogs in the needle valve in the bottom of the tank. I usually take that needle valve out and throw it away, replacing it with a 1/4 turn ball valve.

If you decide to the problem is in the pump, there are good instructions earlier in this thread, just clean everything well before you start, take it slow, and check one thing at a time.

Good luck, and let us know what you find,
Mitch
 

martychi

New Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
3
Location
NE PA
no fuel from ford 4500 injectors

help!
These engines are bad about getting air locked.

Getting back to that pump bleeder screw, when you spin the engine, the fuel should spray 3-6 feet...no, only about 1 foot...seems more like gravity pressure...

If you take the injectors off the lines, do you get any fuel when you spin the engine?...no, sometimes a drop

Just checking: you do have the fuel shut off lever at the front on top of the pump in the forward position; and, when you move it back and forth, does it feel like it is hooked to something?...yes

When you are bleeding this engine the throttle should be full open...check

Before I disassembled anything on the pump, I would want to be certain that there was plenty of fuel getting to it. Have you changed the fuel filter? You may want to blow back through the lines into the tank, because these machines are bad about getting clogs in the needle valve in the bottom of the tank. I usually take that needle valve out and throw it away, replacing it with a 1/4 turn ball valve....fuel supply is ok up to the pump

If you decide to the problem is in the pump, there are good instructions earlier in this thread, just clean everything well before you start, take it slow, and check one thing at a time.

Good luck, and let us know what you find,
Mitch
 

Billyblackfin

New Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2012
Messages
1
Location
Rhode island
Hi guys I'm a newbie with a 4500 as well and am trying to do some research to figure out my fuel issue. My dad was running mine an ran it out of fuel on me so I figured I would replace the filters at this time seeing I would have to bleed her anyway, replace both filters re filled the tank and tried to bleed her but nada, finally got fuel flowing to the inlet of the pump well but did notice that the plate with the two bolts in it where the line feeds was leaking. I tried to snug EM up n broke the one I'll ex out it tomorrow. But when I removed the plate it had a rubber gasket/diaphragm looking unit behind it my question is should this be replaced? Will a leak here cause her not to bleed properly? Any other input would be appreciated as well. And btw learned an awful lot just reading from you guys PLEASE KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK
 

sbybee

Active Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2012
Messages
37
Location
North Fork, CA
I archived your thread and have a somewhat similar situation. I just bought a 71 4500 tlb and the trans fluid was milky so I changed it with the filter and drove around and it seemed to shift forward and reverse much better. The next day I went to move it to pressure wash it it would not move any direction. Not having much knowlege on shuttle trans, I am waiting for the service manual. It makes no noise at all so I'm hoping for a stuck valve or something without splitting. Any ideas? Thanx. steve
 

randyau6032

Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2013
Messages
13
Location
white bluff tn
there is two large rods w/1 1/2 nuts that hold the backhoe in the cradle. Step 1, extend the backhoe out so the bucket is on the ground. Step 2,Loosen the two nuts that hold the backhoe in the cradle, one on each side. Step 3, raise the outriggers enough to clear the cradle on top and bottom. Step 4, move backhoe forward enough to clear the cradle. Step 5, disconnect the two small hoses and reconnect them together, the larger return line needs to be capped off with a #16 cap. DO NOT cap the two small hoses for it will bind the engine when trying to start. If you want to cap the ends on the hoe to keep trash out the two small hoses use a #14
male and female cap, the larger connections is a #16 female cap.
 

Hoe-4-Sho

New Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2014
Messages
4
Location
Waynesville, NC
Sorry for bumping an old thread but I had a question. I just purchased a 4500 and it looks to be a decent piece of equipment. However, I noticed it does have some age and the cylinders aren't holding like they probably should. I have the swing chain looseness and I'm going to look at it this weekend. My question is where's the best place to find O-rings and seals locally? Is there a part number or sizing chart that explains what's needed for the various valves and such online or do I need to purchase the service manual and go from there? These questions have probably been answered somewhere but when I searched I couldn't find anything. Any help is appreciated.
 
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