Ford 345D-Runs Great! Just doesn't move...

[JCinNC]

Wondering if anyone has a troubleshooting guide or input for a Ford 345D.

Symptoms started at the shuttle lever. No movement, or forward would be reverse at times.

I can put a new lever on it, just didn't want to shotgun parts.

Thanks for any help.

J.C.

 

[jimg984]

should be cover on shuttle lever, if so remove cover and check ajustments

 

[Tinkerer]

It's going to take someone with experience on your tractor I'm thinking.
Although you installed a new shift lever, the wire harness and it's connectors need to be to be checked for continuity.
If they are OK, that leaves the control module, the solenoid and hydraulic valve to be checked.
Provided I found the correct parts book page.
https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/n...111-9FCE-005056875BD6&isSnFilterEnabled=false

 

[jimg984]

should be cover on shuttle lever, if so remove cover and check ajustments

I missed where you said you install a new shift lever, sorry

 

[JCinNC]

Thanks. I didn't say I put a new shifter on it. No problem doing that if needed. Just don't want to shotgun parts and guesses.
I'm decent with a meter and can Ohm things out.

 

[Tinkerer]

I was the one that thought you put new shift lever on it.
I should read things a little closer. My bad.

 

[JCinNC]

No problem. Appreciate all the input. I pulled the lever. Any ideas what it should Ohm where in F-R-N?

Thanks.

 

[NH575E]

You might want to carefully take the switch apart and see if you can clean up the contacts. I just use WD-40.

You might also want to inspect the fuse and relay connections if your panel has both in the fuse panel.

Eventually you will want to source a service manual for it. My 575E has a specific fuse for the shuttle lever and forward and reverse relays in the fuse panel.

 

[JCinNC]

I checked fuses. I pulled all of them. None blown. Here's the fuse box location for anyone if needed.
This is with the cover removed. There is a black Phillips Head screw in the middle of it that holds it on. At least on mine.

 

[NH575E]

WOW! I'm not sure they could have found a worse place to locate a fuse panel.

IMO the best way to check a fuse is to replace it. I have, on several occasions, found fuses with a hairline crack in the filament. Look good and even test good with a ohm meter. Put a circuit load on and they would open contact. After wasting hours of diagnostic time on this situation a few times I will at the very least swap fuses to different slots to see if the problem goes away or moves. Most of the time when chasing a problem I just slap a new fuse in if the old one looks good.

 

[Swetz]

You can also test a fuse with a test light. The fuse is open on the end (see pic). Probe both sides.

 

[JCinNC]

Thanks all.

Update: Pretty sure I've figured this one out. The lever is very worn. Wobbly on the mounting pin and worn inside. I dismantled it and cleaned the circuit board contacts with alcohol and sandpaper. They were pretty dirty. If anyone else has to do it and if this helps you need:

1) To take off the small side panels near the gear shifts. Think it's 4 bolts total.
2) Disconnect the wiring harness to the lever. Shown here. Black in color. Small screwdriver blade helps to hold the tabs down on the connectors. Then pull.
3) An Allen wrench to take the mounting collar off that holds the lever at the steering wheel. Two screws.
4) Fish the harness up through the top.
5) Take harness workbench with good lighting and remove the 4 screws. NOTE: There are four nuts on the bottom these screws go into that are not held by anything. Formed into the plastic. They will fall out when a screw is removed.
The wires going to the lever (if you have the end button) are tight and make it aggravating to clean. But I was able to push the lever back INTO the assembly housing and cock it up to be able to clean better.
6) If you have a wiring diagram (I didn't) you can check for continuity at your pins with the lever in various positions.
7) Reassemble in reverse. (So Chiltony. lol)

Now back to mine. It goes in Forward reasonably normal. But if you put it in Reverse, you have to push down and towards the engine to make it move. That's the sweet spot of the worn contact. So I know mine is in the lever.

I will use it this way as long as possible. Checked around for a new lever and current price for that S.O.B. is $418.00. Seems a little pricey for that lever but I may not have a choice but to get one soon.

Thanks again for the input.

 

[jimg984]

POST # 2

 

[JCinNC]

POST # 2

Thanks. I didn't find any adjustments really. Maybe I can bend the one piece in there and make "normal" contact in reverse?
You do have to completely remove the lever and take it to a bench to check inside & clean it up if anyone else runs into this.
You were right though, it was in the lever.
Thanks again.