Floor Panel Repair Questions

[rumblecloud]

Morning!
I've spent some time yesterday reading about floor panel rust repairs so I have a pretty good idea on what to do, but was wondering about how to go about fixing the accelerator foot pedal. When pulling the mat up, it broke away from its base. Probably fairly straight forward, but it was getting dark and I hadda stop for the night.
Plus curious to know what you all think about the severity of the rust. Having never dealt with this kind of project before, I am in the dark.

Thanks,
R



EDIT: Just spent some more time researching the pedal fix and looking at the parts list and image...doesn't look so easy after all. The base and pedal are all one assembly. The base looks like some sort of "base metal" or aluminum. I was hoping to separate the pedal from the base and make something similar to it from some scrap steel, but now I don't know if that's possible.

 

[Delmer]

Kinda a hack job, but I'd fashion a plate that goes around the raised parts to hold down whats left of the flange, like 1/8" steel, bend the inside edges up, overlap to lock it together or weld the pieces around the remains of that base. If the rest of the floor is not rusted through, remove the scale rust, coat it with something from rust converter to just oil, try to keep it cleaner in the future, especially if salt gets in there.

 

[HarleyHappy]

I just replaced mine and made a plate 12”x14” with a slot around the accelerator pedal rod and it came out pretty good. Only issue was with loader control and boot as it ended up uneven with plate over top.
I just ordered 3 slip over boots with top plates from Amazon and screwed them to the floor.
With the mats o the floor can’t even tell.

 

[rumblecloud]

Kinda a hack job, but I'd fashion a plate that goes around the raised parts to hold down whats left of the flange, like 1/8" steel, bend the inside edges up, overlap to lock it together or weld the pieces around the remains of that base. If the rest of the floor is not rusted through, remove the scale rust, coat it with something from rust converter to just oil, try to keep it cleaner in the future, especially if salt gets in there.

I get what you're saying. I'll be working on something this weekend if honeydo stuff doesn't get in the way. The rust looks kinda bad - to me anyway - but so far nothing going all the way through. I haven't pulled the back piece out yet.
It's road work days are over, so no salt will ever see the inside again. It is being put out to pasture here on the farm so to speak.

Thanks for idea.

 

[rumblecloud]

I just replaced mine and made a plate 12”x14” with a slot around the accelerator pedal rod and it came out pretty good. Only issue was with loader control and boot as it ended up uneven with plate over top.
I just ordered 3 slip over boots with top plates from Amazon and screwed them to the floor.
With the mats o the floor can’t even tell.

Hey Harley,
Yeah, the shift boots are another problem. I've been looking at Amazon too for possible replacements that don't cost OEM prices. My local auto parts store has one that looks to be a good candidate for the loader, which I think, is in a different position than yours -- maling it much easier to replace. The shift boot is a different story as that is on the loader floor where the rust is an issue. I'll get to that after I address the foot pedal.
Thanks for your input.

 

[Jonas302]

That floor bracket would be easy enough to make from steel depending on what you have for tools and skills available
I would probably weld the upright piece to take the pedal to a little floor plate cross drill it for the hinge pin use a machine screw for a pin after drilling out the original rivet

 

[rumblecloud]

My skills are okay, but I gots peoples...
I can make proto and give it them for a final..

 

[HarleyHappy]

Yep, I was looking for 2 hours for the correct boots and no go.
Went to Amazon and they have 4”/5” replacement boots for a exposed floor shifter like a B&M in a car.
They had 3 1/4” holes and chrome plates for nice looks.
Just threw all three ripped boots out, put a little white lithium grease on slid over shifter, 4 wheel shifter and what was awesome, it slid over loader control with the handle and neutral switch and bolted them all to the floor with zip screws and they have great flex so no interference.
Best 48 bucks ever spent. Lol

 

[OzDozer]

What's wrong with buying a whole new pedal assembly? You could spend a lot of time and effort trying to fix that broken alloy base.

 

[rumblecloud]

What's wrong with buying a whole new pedal assembly? You could spend a lot of time and effort trying to fix that broken alloy base.

Well...at the moment, cost is kind of an issue:

New Holland #85802906 PEDAL $365.40​

That's from Messicks, but if you have a less expensive source I'm all in.

 

[OzDozer]

Ouch, that's vicious pricing. Try Blumaq with a query on the part #, they may come up with something.

That pedal assembly exists in a number of similar styles with varying part #'s, and slightly different designs. I believe that is a Morse product.

Brake components, maximum braking safety

Blumaq offers all the necessary spare parts for the maintenance and repair of your equipment’s braking system. Brake pads, caliper, pedal etc.

www.blumaq.com

Truck Accelerator Pedal Morse Teleflex International Mack Kenworth MAN Scania | eBay

Great for linkage and air throttle conversions. This pedal suits cables with a clamp fitting (or groove) at the pedal end.

www.ebay.com.au

 

[rumblecloud]

Ouch, that's vicious pricing. Try Blumaq with a query on the part #, they may come up with something.

That pedal assembly exists in a number of similar styles with varying part #'s, and slightly different designs. I believe that is a Morse product.

Brake components, maximum braking safety

Blumaq offers all the necessary spare parts for the maintenance and repair of your equipment’s braking system. Brake pads, caliper, pedal etc.

www.blumaq.com

Truck Accelerator Pedal Morse Teleflex International Mack Kenworth MAN Scania | eBay

Great for linkage and air throttle conversions. This pedal suits cables with a clamp fitting (or groove) at the pedal end.

www.ebay.com.au

@OzDozer

Yeah, I hear you about the different parts - again, I am new at this but love the learning curve.
There are a few different versions with BSN and ASN, but I think I have the right one. I'll certainly give Blumaq a shot. And thank you for the reference and link.

I sometimes wonder about my responses as they lose the tone and may come off as indifferent or dismissive, but I can assure all of you that is not the case.

Thank you again,

R

 

[clueless2]

It may be expensive but, isn't just a simply a pedal.

 

[rumblecloud]

It may be expensive but, isn't just a simply a pedal.

Well, yeah. I just need to come up with a way to replace/repair the base so that the pedal can be securely mounted back to the floor in the position from whence it came.

Considering my skill set or lack thereof, that could be an issue.

But I am sure I can figure something out that will cost considerably less the $365 they want for a new "pedal."

 

[OzDozer]

It may be expensive but, isn't just a simply a pedal.

This is true - however, these pedal controls are manufactured by the tens of thousands annually, and fit a multitude of applications.

When you can find a Swedish truck parts supplier offering what appears to be an identical unit for a Volvo truck for 132 Euros (US$145) - and saying in the same breath, "Our local distributors can often offer a better price" - you start to get the idea that at $365, NH are indulging in some serious reaming, without even offering you any lube.

PDL-759 - PEDAL

slp.se

 

[rumblecloud]

That Volvo pedal is virtually identical with some very minor , minor differences.
Didn't really want to turn this into an NH price bashing thing, but damn...
When I first got "The Beast," I knew prices for replacement parts - depending on what needed replacing - would be high. I also thought there would be aftermarket vendors with lower prices -- not so much.

Is it the same for all brands or just NH and maybe JCB?

As I said, I'll get with my peeps (son-in-law) and we'll fab something that'll hold it to the floor. I need to pull it out and clean it anyway.

And thank you all for your input and advice.

 

[OzDozer]

The level of aftermarket parts is dependent on the machine population, and the potential profit levels that aftermarket suppliers can see in OEM pricing.
The more common makes have more aftermarket suppliers and parts availability. I don't think NH and JCB are orphans when it comes to parts pricing rorts.

It's a constant job trying to find cheaper sources of parts, and I've spent 58 years doing it as an equipment owner - and I'm still doing it today, and still often stunned by the breathtaking difference in pricing, between what is basically the same parts, from OEM and aftermarket.

 

[rumblecloud]

Been poking at that pedal for a bit. Removed it to the bench from some clean up and lube. Was able to remove two of the three bolts that held it in place on the floor without damaging the threads. Cut a square plate and am trying some JB Weld metal epoxy to glue the stop screw back on as well as gluing the old plate to the new one. Still need to grind it down to make it look purty and then see how long it lasts.

 

[Tinkerer]

It would last a long time if you added some 1/4 inch bolts to hold pedal to the new patch.
I don't know that the JB Weld alone will hold up to the pressure you will be putting on it. IMHO

 

[Swetz]

It would last a long time if you added some 1/4 inch bolts to hold pedal to the new patch.
I don't know that the JB Weld alone will hold up to the pressure you will be putting on it.

How about some good quality fender washers under the heads of the mounting bolts??

I think Tinkerer may have a valid point rumblecloud. As you accelerate, the force and resistance seems like it would want to separate the pedal from the plate. As the original holes are disintegrated, how about using oversize washers with a bolt to the plate to cinch the two together.