Hi, I have been private messaging Nutwood and I thought I would revive this old post. I have just purchased a 70ci that has seized steering clutches and a broken track spring. I managed to get a manual for the ad7 but am wondering about the track spring. Mine is not hydraulic, Looking at it I presume I have to break the track and shift front idler forward. My question is do I have to take the blade off? Does the track have a primary pin that I remove? And how do I do this? Actually that's three questions! It's ok I have plenty more!
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Fiat 70CI. Repairs, modifications and stories.
- Thread starter nutwood
- Start date
Queenslander
Senior Member
Welcome to HEF secondom8.
Many moons ago we used to own an AT7C which is a slightly updated 70ci.
Although similar, the AD7 was much later, so that service manual might not be a lot of assistance.
Not sure about the older style track adjuster but it looks like it might come out without removing the idler.
Do you have another spring to replace it with?
Treat it with a great deal of respect, could be safer to cut it up until the tension is relieved rather than dealing with that old thread.
In any case, I’ld want to be 100% sure how it works before unbolting anything.
What’s wrong with your clutches?
May be prudent to get that problem sorted and deal with the spring later.
Many moons ago we used to own an AT7C which is a slightly updated 70ci.
Although similar, the AD7 was much later, so that service manual might not be a lot of assistance.
Not sure about the older style track adjuster but it looks like it might come out without removing the idler.
Do you have another spring to replace it with?
Treat it with a great deal of respect, could be safer to cut it up until the tension is relieved rather than dealing with that old thread.
In any case, I’ld want to be 100% sure how it works before unbolting anything.
What’s wrong with your clutches?
May be prudent to get that problem sorted and deal with the spring later.
I recently replaced a broken track spring. Mine are tensioned via grease pressure. I took images and intended to do a write-up but have been struggling for time. To do mine, I had to break the track. If you are also doing steering clutches, breaking the track makes that job easier. To break the track, I located the relevant pin and put it centre top, after which I removed the track plate to either side. I then fabricated a rough and ready punch support which bolted to the track. This enabled me to heat the track with the oxy, quickly turn it off and lay into the pin with a 14lb sledge. The previous time I broke the track, I split it at the rear of the machine but I needed an assistant to hold the driver punch (with a big pair of multigrips!). Working alone, having a rigid guide to align the punch made it much easier.
With regard to the track spring, one of mine was seriously broken when I bought the machine. I got away for quite a few years with simply welding it back together with low hydrogen (16TC) rods. Repair wouldn't last but was quick and easy. Replacing it was a reasonably big job. From memory, you should get change from $1k for the spring.
With regard to the track spring, one of mine was seriously broken when I bought the machine. I got away for quite a few years with simply welding it back together with low hydrogen (16TC) rods. Repair wouldn't last but was quick and easy. Replacing it was a reasonably big job. From memory, you should get change from $1k for the spring.
Thanks for the replies! I am pretty sure that the ad7, or at7? and 70ci are very similar from observations of the manual, I will know for sure when I start pulling to bits! The clutches are just seized from sitting I think. I have tried to un seize them but i dont want to break anything so i will pull it down for a look. The levers pull always to the seat and the cams are jammed open...or closed depending how you look at it. Clutches are seized closed..I will try the weld spring first I think. My farm doesnt have rocks,just dirt pushing.
If the clutches are not slipping, I wouldn't be rushing to pull things apart. Check the release levers are doing their thing, may well need adjustment. If the levers are releasing the clutches correctly even a rusted clutch pack should break loose under torque. Once loose, they'll soon polish up! Oil's the killer on those clutches. Seized up sounds really good news!
LOL; so it's not just me! Same problem. F'ing great lump of steel across the back. Now replaced with 75 x 12 angle, bolted into place. I feel your pain!
Gday nutwood, i was wondering if the gear lever just lifts up with the top cover? I have worked out the reverser has to be disconnected but I was wondering about the gear stick. Didn't get much done today but I have a couple weeks off after this week.Thanks
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To be honest, I'm buggered if I can remember. I'm thinking the gear stick sits on a little stand and you undo a few bolts and lift the assembly off? I'm trying to find some images from when I was last in there but am not having any immediate success. I'm pretty sure the top cover comes off as a plate, not a plate with levers and paraphernalia attached.
Looking at your image, when I got to that stage, I went and hired a petrol engine powered pressure cleaner. Bought ten cans of engine cleaner on special for a couple of $'s each and blasted every bit of it. Can strongly recommend this. I had no water where the job took place, but 200 litres in a tractor bucket did the job. Once that cover comes off, it's all open. Really good to have it all as clean as possible.
After I took the picture I actually did the same thing, blew it off with air and used kero and my el cheapo gerni. Come up a treat! I figured that the gearbox will be open. I'll try undoing the stand and see if it comes off. Thanks
Always interesting to see how others tackle these PIA tasks. I had limited facilities so put the blade on a length of steel for easy sliding and then jacked the grousers with a hi-lift jack. Lifting it up and using a ratchet strap would have to be easier!
Yes, I set mine up to do what you did, but had a beer and sat and looked at it sorted this way out. The trick is the car Jack's holding it up aswell. There is a scissor jack on the inside aswell. Although I dont want to get a flat tyre in both my cars at the moment!! Although I understand you had to take your rippers off which would not help.
I took my whole ripper assembly off, dumped it in a trailer and sent it off for someone with a seriously large welder to fix up the various cracks. Bit of a bonus from the job as I wouldn't have taken it off just to be welded. I'd have done it myself in situ.