EX100-2 travel speed change not working

[Dayton]

Well im getting there, new PVC board from China was programmed wrong... put the old board in with the new adjusted sensors now its working. No more fault codes.

Last thing is the travel selector.
It seems to be stuck in high. Checked the travel speed solonoid, has 23 ohms like it should. The travel speed connecter always has 24-28 volts all modes, whether it's key on or running, both low and power mode engine speed. Shouldn't this change from 0 volts to 24 volts depending on turtle or rabbit to activate the solonoid? What is there to check next?

 

[Diesel Dave]

Glad to hear you are making some headway
The travel 2 speed power is not sent to the solenoid directly from the turtle / rabbit switch.The shift from low to high speed is controlled by the PVC based on a few parameters, one being relatively low travel pressure (below 2000 psi IIRC). If you are stuck in high speed I suspect the solenoid spool is either jammed or there are o-rings blown off allowing the pilot oil to leak past internally and being directed to the propel motors

 

[John C.]

Japanese machines usually have power to the solenoids all the time and control the grounds through the processor. Basically if the solenoid coil checks out on ohms of resistance and there is voltage, the problem is on the ground side.

 

[Dayton]

Japanese machines usually have power to the solenoids all the time and control the grounds through the processor. Basically if the solenoid coil checks out on ohms of resistance and there is voltage, the problem is on the ground side.

I used a volt meter on the plug it is showing 24v all the time unless key is off. So I assume the ground to the PVC Board is working however it's not cutting it when I push the switchs, maybe that's why it's always stuck in high.

 

[John C.]

Are you seeing voltage as the same on both legs of the harness connector at the solenoid?

 

[Dayton]

Are you seeing voltage as the same on both legs of the harness connector at the solenoid?

No just one side. The other side doesn't show voltage or continuity. I know the PVC Board operates weird like that with other connectors

 

[John C.]

So make a jumper wire to go from the hot to the solenoid and then make another jumper to go from the solenoid and then to a machine ground somewhere. Then see if the machine is in low speed or high.

 

[Dayton]

So make a jumper wire to go from the hot to the solenoid and then make another jumper to go from the solenoid and then to a machine ground somewhere. Then see if the machine is in low speed or high.

Same results, stuck in high. When I ground out the solonoid with key on I can't hear the solonoid click or anything, should i be able to? Just to confirm this is the travel speed solonoid right?

 

[Diesel Dave]

With the solenoid unplugged, see if you can achieve low speed .

 

[Diesel Dave]

If you are questioning which solenoid is the 2 speed , pic below is from the parts page. On the machine follow the hose from the rotary manifold back to the solenoid block.

 

[Dayton]

Update: I couldn't find the issue so I gave up and moved on... by chance I was tieing up the harness under the cab and saw there was a dirty connecter loose. Didn't think much of it because it looks like it wasn't used. I was looking closer and there was another connecter plugged into a sensor. I remembered reading there was pressure sensors under the cab for something. Looked up and to the rear and there was another pressure sensor, same T fitting just deeper behind some lines. Plugged the dirty sensor into it after cleaning it and it's working good now. Travel speed works again. So there were 2 pressure sensors under the cab on a junction block, hard to see.

 

[Diesel Dave]

It’s interesting the unplugged pilot sensor/ switch didn’t create a fault code.
Anyhoo, you are up and running..thumbs up .
Thanks for coming back with the fix.

 

[Dayton]

It’s interesting the unplugged pilot sensor/ switch didn’t create a fault code.
Anyhoo, you are up and running..thumbs up .
Thanks for coming back with the fix.

I learned a lot here reading old threads and when people came back with the solution it helped. Here's the pic or the 2 sensors, the zip tied one was the one that fell out. Clip is broken so I tied it in. Thanks for the help.

 

[Diesel Dave]

Oh I see it’s only a 2 wire switch , thats generally why there’s no fault code produced.

 

[Dayton]

Oh I see it’s only a 2 wire switch , thats generally why there’s no fault code produced.

It doesn't even mention these much in the manual, it will show "pressure switch" and when you look on diagrams it shows the pump pressure switch by the engine.

 

[tmsha]

I'm having the same problem especially with high speed travel I can't Switch to turtle mode Sumitomo 240-5 excavator what should I do help me

 

[John C.]

The usual problem with the Sumitomo is that the bores for the servo piston in the motor that shifts the swash plate are worn out.

 

[tmsha]

Can you explain moreAs there is a code that appears on the screen of the Sumitomo 240-5 excavator, it is 7201

 

[tmsha]

There is another problem, which is after the start of work, about one to two hours, there will be rises in the temperature of the hydraulic oil, which leads to the weakness of all movements of the excavator.
What is the reason for that, please tell me please

 

[tmsha]

All movements of the Sumitomo 240-5 excavator are very fast. I don't know why