Dump trailer suggestion

[snonut12]

I don't know but could it be possible that you were looking at the regular duty Cam 6x12 with 12K rating? They are built the same as the HD 6x12 except that the HD has a few extras like two telescope cylinders and barn doors, etc. The price you mention is about the same as what I was quoted from two local dealers (around $5000) for the regular duty model.

Just out of curiously I decided to check with my original trailer dealer/manufacturer (Heavy Hauler) on their pricing. They are the closest trailer dealer and they actually build trailers unlike the other two local dealers that I've been checking with pricing, which only sell major brand trailers like Cam Superline and BriMar, etc. Anyway I checked on their pricing and I should say there is quite a difference in pricing. I could get 6'5"x12', 26" wall, 11 gauge steel floor and walls, 16" tires and 12K rating for $5,300. However the barn doors, ramps, stake pockets, D-rings are an option which is additional $$. They really do build good trailers with good materials.

You probably are wondering why I am looking at them with the fact of problems I've been having with my current 7000# Heavy Hauler dump trailer? Like I mentioned earlier in this thread one of the reason the bed is bottoming out is because of distance from the pivot point to rear end of bed. I was going to ask the manufacturer if they could have put the pivot point closer to the rear end but I figured it was engineering design because they probably want pivot point to be closer to the axle to help take some of weight when dumping full loaded. Also I noticed that some other manufacturers that has axles more closer to the rear end of trailer which would helps when dumping. I looked at mine and I think I just realized the reason why mine is bottoming out so easily. Mine has the axles just about centered. I'm attaching a picture of mine when it was bought a few years ago. Do you think this is the problem? If so, then maybe I could talk to the manufacturer and ask if they could put the axles furthur back and maybe raise the bed height a couple inches by using deeper pivot brackets. I think that it would work. What do you think?

 

[snonut12]

Notice how close the bed is to the solid ground when fully raised UNLOADED. :eek2

 

[Steve Frazier]

If you set the axles back, you'll increase the tongue weight of the trailer, perhaps beyond the hitch capacity. By centering the axles on the trailer, the axles carry the load rather than your truck. What you would need is stiffer springs rather than moving the axle.

Putting the pivot point of the dump closer to the hoist fulcrum as pictured reduces the load on the hoist and the frame under it. The pivot point of the body could be moved to the rear, but the trailer might require a heavier capacity hoist and additional strengthening where the hoist is mounted.

 

[cat320]

Stephen my trailer is the HD one twin cylenders barn doors and 4 D rings My trailer does not bottom out like yours does but id does have all that stuff you mention was an option from the other guy .I don't think they are that cheap if they have to add all that stuff ,then it will bring the price to the same as the others. I also think that your hitch may be set to high which would make the dump angle hit to but it could just be the way the pick was taken.

 

[snonut12]

Steve, you're right that moving back axles will increase tongue weight, but it seems that most other dump trailer manufacturers I've seen has axles moved back. How comes do they design that? I guess it mean they have stiffer springs? I understand that on dump trailer the load are spreaded out evenly but on equipment trailer which has axles set back you put the heavier part of equipment over the axles. So again, why do most dump trailer manufacturers have the axles set back?

Rick, I know your is the HD version but I just thought that the one you drove by could be the regular duty version, sorry. You're right, my ball mount is set a little too high. I like it set a bit high so that way the trailer will be level when fully loaded instead of pointing down which is unsafe. By my eyes it look fine but when I measured the height of trailer bed front and rear, there is 4" of a difference. I am surprised and even if i have set it level I still might have ground clearance problem because of axles being centered and the pivot point too far from the rear end. Did you pulled it with your Chevy 2500HD (at least I think that's what you had?). How did it handled when pulling load evenly spreaded at capacity (or near capacity)?

 

[cat320]

I had mine set just a little higher too the back end as i just measured it was around 15" I took some pics but just could not get them sized right to put on here with out them being to small to see. Mt chevy pulled it fine when loaded but most of the time I think i was at or above the load limit but she did dump every time . If you want to see them and resize them I can email them too you.

 

[badranman]

My 6 ton Weberlane has the axles set back as well. It also has dual cylinders which in my opinion is a must have.

 

[snonut12]

Here's a few pictures of Rick's Cam trailer that I resized for him.

 

[snonut12]

Rick, your trailer looks good. Thanks for sharing the pics with us. 15" of ground clearnce is pretty impressive comparing to mine. :yup Only thing I still don't like is the 15" D rated tires on a 12K trailer. :eek2 Most other manufacturers I've checked has 15" D rated on 10K, but for the exact same trailer, they can put 16" E rated on which will raise GVWR to 12K. So my feeling is that Cam is pushing the limit. I think having a smaller tires & wheels is one of reason Cam is cheaper than some others with 16".

 

[cat320]

Stephen ,I called cam up a while back that trailer is rated to haul 8K lbs and I too looked at the tires and they are rated to carry alot of weight from the side wall rateings, but you have to rmember that trailer tire that are 15" are alot stronger than a car tire i'm sure you know this I sound like an ass telling you.For the money I think it was a good bang for the buck .The PJ trailers look good too but they are at the $6-7K range . If you look at the tomaster dumps now they are no where near the way they used to be they changed there line up.I was looking at the foster trailers when they where there own entity and the dealer wanted like $8-9 and another $1k for a hydraulic jack. It's hard because one co has one thing more or less but i guess what you need to look for is the axels fram and what gauge steel is used for floor and walls .Also for the bobcat ramps so put them so they are mounted on the underside of the body that ok i guess untill you have to cycle that extra weight up and down.but over all I think getting a dump trailer is the best way to fly for little to moderate use for less of the cost of getting a dump truck.

 

[snonut12]

I just would like to say thank you for your time and effort to participate in this thread. I've learned alot and it has helped me narrow down my options. I had it down to two models and made some calls for pricing. After I got the pricing, I did the math and add up the options and tax, but in end it has gotten too much. Unfortunatley it would cost me $8K to $8.5K for a 12K rated trailer with options that I want. I have not figured out yet how much my dump trailer is worth right now but my guess would be around $2500. So that mean I'd be paying extra $6K which is still way too much for something that I have already invested in. Because I get a job from time to time, I really dont make that much and it'd take forever to make up for the extra cost. Most of times I use the trailer for hauling away brush or leaves so weight is not really a problem. But when delivering top soil I am limited to 2 or 3 yards but I get only a few requests per year so it's not really worth to pursue into bigger dump trailer. I can live with the little inconvience and deal with it.

However I still would like a trailer to haul skid steer and who know, maybe compact tractor with attachment like front end loader and rotary mower. And perhaps a mini excavigator. I currently have a 6 1/2' x 12' 3500# landscape trailer that I could sell and get an equipment trailer. I just don't know how to decide which size and rating to get. Available to me are 16' and 20' models with 6'7" width in either 10K or 12K rating. Which size and rating would you recommend for the applications that I mentioned above? Pricing is not a factor for this time since ET is pretty much affordable ($2500 to $3000). Thanks. :salute

 

[cat320]

Well I just got a quote for a down east trailer 16' long 9999 gvw for $3,500 my freind just got a tomaster c10 16" for $4,500

 

[Steve Frazier]

I paid $4500 for my equipment trailer in 2000. They aren't as cheap as you think

 

[snonut12]

This is the actual pricing from my local trailer manufacturer, Heavy Hauler. Since they sell directly to me, the cost is much lower. They really do build good trailers, it's just their design of dump trailer that I did not like. I'd appreciate any recommendation on size and rating of trailer. Thanks.

 

[Electra_Glide]

Which size and rating would you recommend for the applications that I mentioned above?

Bigger is always better... :drinkup

But...(there's always a but). Issues of licensing, GCWR, and proper vehicle plates have already been mentioned in this thread. All those things cost money above and beyond the cost of the trailer. And like Steve mentioned, getting stopped by the DOT without having all your ducks in a row is priceless... :crying

A 9999 GVW trailer has enough payload capacity (7000-8000 lbs) to handle anything but the largest skidsteers, and will also handle most 3-ton mini-excavators and compact tractors. You don't need a CDL, and you don't need combination plates (at least in PA). Also sounds like your current truck will pull it.

Personally, this is the likely route I'm taking.

Pricing is not a factor for this time since ET is pretty much affordable ($2500 to $3000). Thanks. :salute

Around here you can get an 18' 9999 GVW equipment trailer for about $3000 plus tax and registration

 

[snonut12]

Ok thanks. Would the 16' be sufficient?

 

[snonut12]

Just wondering if the stake pockets can be used as a tie down point for chains or should D-rings be used?

 

[Steve Frazier]

I guess it would depend on how heavy they are. I use the ones on my equipment trailer exclusively to tie my machine down.

 

[cat320]

They should be fine long as they are a good thickness .I have used them on other trailers that i have used .

 

[snonut12]

If I get a trailer with GVWR of 12K (for example), can it be legally registered for 10K? I do not know what the law in NYS allow about registering below the manufacturer's GVWR. Or would I need to have the manufacturer/dealer change the paperwork down to 10K?