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Dt466 grey smoke blowing oil out exhaust
- Thread starter Hhauling
- Start date
funwithfuel
Senior Member
As long as the intake side is dry. Last thing you want is a runaway. Good luck
What really baffles me about the whole thing is I’m not short on coolant or oil I’m still on the full mark on the stick and coolant is topped off, but the mystery fluid doesn’t smell like diesel. But it is steadily slobbering out the exhaust. Almost to the point it reminds me of condensation that comes out of the tailpipe on a gas burner from time to time.
funwithfuel
Senior Member
Possibilities are valve seals, excess idle time, stuck AFC causing advanced timing or a failed injector. If you have an infrared temp gun, shoot the exhaust runners and see which is running cool. If you don't have one, you can use crayon or birthday cake candles, see which melts last.
This is just a little above idle if you run the rpm up it get extremely heavy. I ran the truck today up to operating temperature still no change still slobbering swapped back to original turbo and let it run at 1500rpm for probably 30 minutes. Oil is still at the full mark. I used an infrared thermometer to check temp at each exhaust port with the manifold on and got consistent readings on all but two injectors they were about 30 degrees cooler than the other 4 coincidently they were the two I replaced. With the fact that the oil level isn’t dropping like I thought it would be the way it’s slobbering should I just replace the other 4 injectors or have any of y’all got any suggestion on something else to try?
Truck Shop
Senior Member
Just what were the temps at each exhaust port? Using the infrared check coolant temp
at top hose to radiator tank also.
at top hose to radiator tank also.
funwithfuel
Senior Member
I would think with a broken rocker arm, she'd have had a bad miss and some popping through the exhaust or huffing through the air cleaner. Hope it's not too terrible.
It does have a slight miss at idle that’s what lead to the injector swapping I wish I would’ve pulled the valve cover $1200 ago. Any chance that the rocker arm could’ve just broke on it’s own? Push rod doesn’t seem to be damaged. And the valve is in the fully closed position. I really do appreciate all the help I’ve received so far.
funwithfuel
Senior Member
I wouldn't hesitate to slap a new arm on the shaft. I would remove the injector and blow air in the cylinder with both valves fully closed and have someone listen to the exhaust and the intake. Make sure you don't have air just blowing through either side. That way you know for sure, your valves didn't get hurt. Also, look at your valve spring, make sure nothing is broken or jammed between the coils. The way that arm failed says it tried to compress something solid. It could have just been fatigue. Can't tell from pic.
Truck Shop
Senior Member
Your going to have remove the rocker arm assembly anyway-one way to check valves is
place a straight edge across the the top of valve stems. Some will have sank in the valve
seats--expect the intakes to be slightly higher than exhaust. Probably find a difference in
height of 0.10 to 0.15 across the board. If you find a valve on #3 is sunk below the rest
you know you have a issue. But those International rockers are stamped/pressed steel
and were known to crack/break. The gas 345/392 used similar and would break one now
and then.
place a straight edge across the the top of valve stems. Some will have sank in the valve
seats--expect the intakes to be slightly higher than exhaust. Probably find a difference in
height of 0.10 to 0.15 across the board. If you find a valve on #3 is sunk below the rest
you know you have a issue. But those International rockers are stamped/pressed steel
and were known to crack/break. The gas 345/392 used similar and would break one now
and then.
Truck Shop
Senior Member
You can do it by rotating that cylinder/piston to the bottom, with injector removed and using a
compression tester converted to plug shop air to it, pressurize that cylinder. Using a KD brand
in chassis screw type spring compressor to collapse spring and remove valve locks. Reverse to
install. Some have done it with piston at TDC to keep the valve from falling, but you will want
to make sure engine can't rotate. Two choices. Both ways have been done.
compression tester converted to plug shop air to it, pressurize that cylinder. Using a KD brand
in chassis screw type spring compressor to collapse spring and remove valve locks. Reverse to
install. Some have done it with piston at TDC to keep the valve from falling, but you will want
to make sure engine can't rotate. Two choices. Both ways have been done.
funwithfuel
Senior Member
I do it at TDC. Clutch engaged in 5th gear. With a 3/4 SAE pointed bolt screwed in to just in between the ring gear teeth.
Long story short. I tried to do it at BDC. My air line failed. Got smacked in the head with a whipping hose and dropped the valve. The seal caught it at the keeper groove. I have done it at TDC ever since.
Long story short. I tried to do it at BDC. My air line failed. Got smacked in the head with a whipping hose and dropped the valve. The seal caught it at the keeper groove. I have done it at TDC ever since.
cfherrman
Senior Member
There is tons of videos of guys doing this to small block Chevy and the like.