Drott 40 BEC

[sheepfoot]

You will need to break the track either way, I would first check the jack screws that hold the bearing block in place along with the bolts that hold it to the frame. Is your 35 a A or B series, like 35EC or 35BEC. The quickest way would be to unbolt the whole unit and switch out, rebuild the other shaft/bearings and sprocket for a later install if needed.

 

[Papa Lar]

Thanks Sheepfoot. Its a 35DC. Serial Number 6266299. My older machine is same thing with a serial number of 6266222. There is some minor differences in the dashboard so I am thinking they may be a year apart in age. I am thinking around 1978 vintage.

Thanks for the advice. I hadn't considered that maybe the bolts were missing or broke. That would be awesome if that was the only issue.

 

[Tony700sks]

Hi,
I have a drott 35d. The first intermediate shaft has the gear stripped.I have not been able to find the part. I am looking for the specs to have the gear made.would anyone have this information?

 

[RonO]

Hi,
I have a drott 35d. The first intermediate shaft has the gear stripped.I have not been able to find the part. I am looking for the specs to have the gear made.would anyone have this information?

Hi Tony. Hope you found an answer already. If not a gear company can determine the pressure angle of the gear if you have a gear with some good teeth to give them. I've used Martin Gear and Sprocket for other gears in the past when I didn't want to set up a machine to make a gear or it was a helical gear. Is the gear a plain bore with a key or is it splined?
Do you have photos of yours?
I just visited because my Drott 40 suddenly lost drive power on one side. It still turns if lifted off the ground.
I'm also in Michigan - little town called Nashville. I'm watching for parts machines nearby. Possibly you are close enough for e to see what you have? My phone is 517 852-1900

 

[JKCianci]

Hi All, I'm just jumping into this forum for the first time. I recently bought an old Drott 40 BEC, SN is 693 so I think its late 70's early 80's. It has a Perkins T4.236 engine.

I started and ran it 3 or four times for short stints with no issues the engine sounded good and strong. then once I fired it up it ran for 1 minute or so, began chuging and now I cannot for the life of me get it to turn over...

before it died I was poking around the engine looking at stuff and I exersized the manual shutoff on the fuel pump and also pulled the pump arm on the highlift pump a couple times.. this is when the engine was off before i knew of any problems. Next was when I tried to start it and it ran fine for the 1 minute then quit.

since then I have replaced the battery and changed all the filters, cleaned the air filters, fresh engine oil, bled the air out of every port I can find on the fuel delivery and still it won't turn over. I have even tried a little cold start in the intake which gets the engine to fire for a half second and then nothing.

it seems to me like it is just not getting the fuel but i have loosened the high pressure lines at the atomizers and you can see the fuel leaking one at a time when i crank the engine..

Any thoughts? am I missing something obvious? seems odd that the fuel pump would just randomly stop producing enough pressure all of a sudden... or likewise all four atomizers fail all of sudden..

sorry for the novel!

 

[RonO]

I'm not familiar with this particular engine and fuel pump to know exactly what you have. If it starts or fires on ether and not now - it likely is not getting fuel. Be careful with ether. I've seen broken rings on the older Perkins engines. They usually don't need ether above 50 degrees F.

When you say fuel is leaking from the injectors when bleeding them - how much fuel are you talking of? It should not just be dripping individual drops but a significant number - enough to fill a thimble after a number of strokes.

If I understand correctly you lift pump has an external lever that can be manipulated to operate the pump. The lift pump should be supplying a pulse of fuel with each stroke of the lever. And - the pump should maintain fuel pressure to the injector pump once it is pumped up. I suspect the lift pump is not supplying fuel as needed. There normally is a vent screw/cap on the upper side of the injection pump that is used to purge air from the injection pump. Loosening this and operating the lift pump should result in a very obvious flow of fuel with each stroke of the lift pump. Once this is confirmed - you then close this plug. Now operate the lift pump lever - you should notice a change in how the lift lever feels as the fuel pressure builds up and holds the pump diaphragm up against the internal spring.

Once you confirm the lift pump supplies fuel and retains pressure after manually cycling the pump - Then - make sure the engine stop device is in the run position. Open throttle fully. Bleed the injector lines by slightly loosening each line nut and cranking the engine over with the starter. You are not looking for individual drips of fuel from the lines but enough to say to yourself - this is making a mess. Make certain that the lift pump always maintains fuel pressure to the injector pump. I've seen the arm on the fuel pump wear and not provide sufficient stroke of the diaphragm to provide sufficient fuel or for the check valves or diaphragm in the pump to fail. I've had to replace a lift pump on a small tractor with a Ford/Perkins engine 3 times in 30 years. In fact - I have a new pump - #4 - waiting to be installed.
Hope this is of some help.
Ron

 

[RonO]

I've found that the track drive on my Drott 40B stripped the output shaft/drive sprocket. Does anyone have a sprocket and shaft available? Or - have experience on making one functional by welding or pinning? I bet Sheepfoot does but it looks like we lost him as he has not posted for a year. Wish I could talk to him. Such a treasure of knowledge.