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Dresser TD-8G

Discussion in 'Dozers' started by Alaskaman, Feb 26, 2020.

  1. Alaskaman

    Alaskaman Member

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    I'm volunteering with a ministry and they had "running" a Dresser TD-8G donated to them. It was off loaded running, but the key was taken away with the truck driver.

    Being around different equipment, I was able to make a key to turn the switch on. However I can't get anything to work or turn over. No Horn, lights or even the engine to turn over.

    The battery is charged and load checked, all is good.

    I've looked all over for a hidden Master switch, nothing.

    Help! Is there a secret to starting this piece of equipment?

    Thank you in advanced.
     
  2. Vetech63

    Vetech63 Senior Member

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    Since it was off-loaded with the correct key, I would assume that the key you made isn't doing the trick. I would try getting the proper ignition key for that machine before you do anything else. Master switches are usually connected to the battery ground cable (BLACK). Follow that cable from the battery to find the master switch, if it is equipped with one.
     
    mg2361 likes this.
  3. John C.

    John C. Senior Member

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    The G machines used what was known at the snoopy key because it looked like the cartoon dog.

    The ignition is interlocked with the safety lever on the transmission. The transmission has to be in neutral and the lever in the park position in order for the engine to be turned over. Does this machine have a Cummins B engine installed?
     
  4. GODSDOZER

    GODSDOZER Well-Known Member

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    I have a dressta TD8M, the master switch on this machine is under your legs when sitting in the seat. If it isn't in the cab , check battery box it may be located in there.
     
  5. Alaskaman

    Alaskaman Member

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    Thank you everyone for your replies.

    Okay, I do have the correct Master Switch. Although it does turn on, I'll get a correct key.

    Not sure of which engine, But it is a diesel. :)

    I will double check the transmission lock position again.

    Thank you all of your information.
     
  6. GODSDOZER

    GODSDOZER Well-Known Member

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    On my dozer, the dash board will light up with master switch in the On position and the key is turned to Accessory position even if transmission lock position is in the wrong position, but it wont crank the engine.
     
  7. John C.

    John C. Senior Member

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    The G models only have a master key which is the snoopy key below the seat. Does your throttle lever have a start position and then move it to run or is it just start and stop on a toggle switch?
     
  8. Alaskaman

    Alaskaman Member

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    I have the Snoopy key under the seat and the start/stop toggle switch.

    After I found the correct key, the only thing that works is the Either injection button.

    I've made sure the transmission is in neutral (with the lock).

    I'm having the Battery charged just to make sure it up all the way and not just enough to switch the either button.
     
  9. FWD

    FWD Well-Known Member

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    I thought they had a push button on the dash for starting. Still need the master witch on and the neutral safety lever up. There is a switch below that lever that could be not working.
    FWD
     
  10. John C.

    John C. Senior Member

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    It sounds like your machine has the Cummins engine in it then. Is there a starter button on the dash as well as the ether injection button? If so have you check for voltage to and through that button?
     
  11. Alaskaman

    Alaskaman Member

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    It does have the Start/Stop switch, along with a Start Button on the dash. The Dozer is away from my house but, I'll be there next Tuesday to check things out.

    I appreciate all the feed back and help.
     
  12. Willie B

    Willie B Senior Member

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    The TD7G I own has a heavy positive cable direct to the starter. The negative cable passes through the master switch below the seat, then to the frame of the tractor. Signal (positive) to a solenoid comes from the transmission interlock to the start button. start button to a relay behind the control panel. The relay controls heavier current feeding down to the starter drive mechanism. Most common problem will be high resistance connections somewhere in one of these two circuits.

    I have a set of manuals with schematics if you need.
     
  13. Alaskaman

    Alaskaman Member

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    Thank you Willie B.

    I'll let you know next week if I might need a schematic.
     
  14. Tinkerer

    Tinkerer Senior Member

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    Can you get in contact with the truck driver that delivered it ?
    He may know what the problem is.
     
  15. g_man

    g_man Senior Member

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    The battery disconnect switch (snoopy) is on the negative side of the battery. When made the battery is grounded and every thing on dash board switches should work - lights, horn, ether inject, dash volt meter, ect. Having the ether inject work says your battery is grounded and you have 12 volts to the dash. There is a circuit breaker dedicated to the horn and back up alarm which could explain why the horn does not work. There is a second circuit breaker for the lights. If the transmission is in neutral with the safety lock lever pulled up the motor should crank when the Start switch is pushed independent of the Run/Stop switch position. The only thing the run stop switch does is open and close the fuel solenoid. So if the Run/Stop is in Stop it will crank but not start for lack of fuel. When you push the start button with the neutral lock lever up (locked) it pulls in a relay that makes the white wire on the starter go to 12 V powering the starter solenoid which connects the starter motor to the 12v on the heavy red battery cable.

    Maybe this will help you figure out what isn't working.

    gg
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2020
  16. Alaskaman

    Alaskaman Member

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    Thank you g-man & Tinker.

    I've been trying to get ahold of the person whom delivered it.

    It's a waiting game. :-(
     
  17. Brandon_M

    Brandon_M Well-Known Member

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    Both guys here are correct. I’ve got a TD8G & on the dash you’ve got a push button for the starter, push button for ether injection, toggle switch for the off/run & a push/pull switch for the lights. I believe you could bypass your main disconnect to see if that was your problem or not. But also I got a lot of slack in mine, I could kill the power but had trouble putting the power back on. I bought a replacement disconnect switch with key off of Fleabay for like $20.
     
  18. Willie B

    Willie B Senior Member

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    TD7G got an extensive renovation in 2016/17. Wiring was replaced. Still it was hard to start in winter. One day out in the cold 10 degree F. I spent a couple hours following the circuitry. It involved a considerable amount of parts removal in a very tight shed. I finally found the problem: A bolt where the ground cable terminates on the frame was polished, and coated with corrosion inhibitor. A Nylock nut was started, but not tightened.

    Here Columbus day weekend 2019 I pulled 30 800 LB blocks & a 1200 LB boat, 25,200 Not bad for a 14600 LB tractor.
    The man in the red hat, plaid shirt is my son, event organizer. 30 blocks.jpeg
     
    balls2go likes this.
  19. Brandon_M

    Brandon_M Well-Known Member

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    That’s quite the load for the ole girl there very impressive, sharp looking dozer too Willie B. When you redone your harness did you buy a wiring harness or just build one as you went along?
     
  20. Willie B

    Willie B Senior Member

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    My own creation. I hate harnesses. They are overpriced, never quite fit. I run my own, use the plastic spring material to contain it. High current circuits I feel need special treatment harness makers NEVER use. My favorite are soldered copper terminals. They are illegal for any work covered under National Electrical Code. I believe because few understand how to solder. Nicola Tesla pioneered the soldered connector. The durability of a soldered connection done by a skilled hand is unsurpassed in longevity. No human has lived long enough to see his good soldered connection fail. Proper solder joints exclude air & water, preventing copper oxidation, and serve as an anode, preventing oxidation, even where the solder doesn't touch.