Hi all. We have this late model Doosan light tower (I think about 2011-2012?) and 2 of the lights don't fire up. Before I start digging in with test lights I wanted to see if anyone could point me in the best direction to start. We put a new capacitor in it to make 60Hz and 120 volts (approximately). So I know the power is good. One set of lights just need love. Where is the best place to start testing? Thank you
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Doosan Light Tower....2 lights work 2 dont
- Thread starter Parts
- Start date
The Peej
Senior Member
It depends on your budget. The cheapest is to start with bulb and ballast. If you use it a lot you should consider upgrading to LED lamps
Thanks @The Peej ...I dont think they're gonna do the LED upgrade but maybe in the future. Its a nice unit but the part that stinks is nobody can tell me if they saw 1 light go out and then the second go out of if they both went out at once. Do you see any reason I couldn't swap bulbs first to see what happens?
kiilowatt bender
Member
Do you have proper voltage at the light fixture itself? What type of bulb is used?
Heres where I am at on this tower:
All 4 bulbs work. I switched the ballast/capacitor combos around and got the other bulbs on. I then moved the wires around for the switches and confirmed both switches work. Right now the top two bulbs come on and that cooresponds to the correct switch (I put everything back after diagnostics). I checked the capacitance of the capacitors at the ballasts and they were all correct. I am thinking I need a new set of ballasts and capacitors. My ballasts have 3 wires coming off of them. I called 1000bulbs and they said this would be my replacement but I would like to confirm with someone that knows better - seemed a little iffy. He asked if I have 120V, 277V, or 480V going into the ballasts and I had not checked that but I know I have 120V at the plug outlet. I suspect I have 120V. Can anyone tell me if these ballasts can be wired with 3 wires? See link: https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/89418/PLUSRITE-7243.html#
On that page theres a PDF with specs too if that helps.
All 4 bulbs work. I switched the ballast/capacitor combos around and got the other bulbs on. I then moved the wires around for the switches and confirmed both switches work. Right now the top two bulbs come on and that cooresponds to the correct switch (I put everything back after diagnostics). I checked the capacitance of the capacitors at the ballasts and they were all correct. I am thinking I need a new set of ballasts and capacitors. My ballasts have 3 wires coming off of them. I called 1000bulbs and they said this would be my replacement but I would like to confirm with someone that knows better - seemed a little iffy. He asked if I have 120V, 277V, or 480V going into the ballasts and I had not checked that but I know I have 120V at the plug outlet. I suspect I have 120V. Can anyone tell me if these ballasts can be wired with 3 wires? See link: https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/89418/PLUSRITE-7243.html#
On that page theres a PDF with specs too if that helps.
kiilowatt bender
Member
I do not know what wattage your bulbs are but as a master electrician I expect they are the large Mogul base screw in type. By the time you buy the capacitors and ballasts I suspect you are spending more than you would if you just eliminate the capacitors and ballasts and wired directly to a Mogul base LED "Corn light" with 5000 Kelvin brightness or above. You can buy these Led "Corn lights on-line for less than than you would pay for the capacitors and ballast. The LED bulbs are direct wired to your power source and usually they come with 120-208-240and277 volt input range . Less heat, instant on, better illumination and very long life. Keep life simple and yoor wiring connection simple! I think that is your win-Win solution. Operating cost is about 1/4th of HID lights.
Yes mogul base BT37 bulb! I didn't realize LED conversion was just about getting line voltage to the sockets. I can do that. The machine makes 120V at the regular plug. Where would you suggest I check for voltage before ordering LED bulbs? When you do these upgrades do you just cut out the ballasts and reconnect the wires to take generator voltage up to the sockets? I could also leave all that in the belly and rewire off the circuit breaker to new switches that control the lights. I don't want to mess up anything with the electrical generation so maybe makes sense to put in new toggle switches feeding the lights?
Camshawn
Senior Member
We just changed the lamp to LED and bypassed the ballast/capacitor on streetlights and area lights. The high wattage LEDs were just becoming available when I retired. Cam