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Diesel Transfer Tank Options

suladas

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Wow this thread got confusing lol slam a tank on there with plenty of hose and get to work usually 24 ft of hose and definitely a auto shut off nozzle. No need at all whatsoever for baffles in a 100 gallon transfer tank Over 119 gallons your into DOT territory hazmat https://www.dot.state.mn.us/cvo/factsheets/FuelTanks.pdf MN has exemptions for farmers
If you need more than about 100 gallons at a time might drop a tank on site and have the fuel truck fill it or make more than one trip with the pickup

You bet a 100 gallon tank needs baffles. Not only will it cause the tank to move, or tear the mounts over a matter of time from panic stops, but it will eventually destroy the tank. I wouldn't have a tank without baffles on my trucks. Wouldn't trust anyone who would build one without them. Not only does it stop fuel from sloshing around, it's extra support for the tank.
 

CM1995

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What do you do for plating or unloading it before refueling?
An automatic nozzle is a must, can't imagine anyone not going for one.
Graham

Graham I haven't plated this one. My other trucks have steel tanks with green Diesel labels on them.

It's under the hazmat limit so it doesn't have to be unloaded before fueling. Since it's an L-shape tank it fits nicely with a Weatherguard tool box.

IMG_0117.JPGIMG_0118.JPGIMG_0116.JPG
 

Hallback

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Filter is a must, I cringe every time I see a slip tank with no filter.
Unless you are recycling diesel you do not need a filter on them and they kill pumps in half the time it seems due to restriction.
 

suladas

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Unless you are recycling diesel you do not need a filter on them and they kill pumps in half the time it seems due to restriction.

I will pay $300 to buy a new slip tank pump every few years then spend tens of thousands repairing an engine. I would guess 95% of tank I see have a filter, or more.
 
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CM1995

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Unless you are recycling diesel you do not need a filter on them and they kill pumps in half the time it seems due to restriction.

You definitely need a filter on a slip tank.:rolleyes:
 

Hallback

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Evidently we are doing something wrong then as we have never had any issues with dirty fuel.
Pay more attention to the nozzle being dirty if worried about fuel being dirty.
 

Graham1

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Graham I haven't plated this one. My other trucks have steel tanks with green Diesel labels on them.

It's under the hazmat limit so it doesn't have to be unloaded before fueling. Since it's an L-shape tank it fits nicely with a Weatherguard tool box.
That looks a very smart set up. Are you going to put a fixed hose reel and pump on it, or do you use the machines own refuelling pump?
Graham
 

Graham1

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With regards filters on mobile tanks I think it depends how you use them. My tank lives indoors when not in use so little chance of condensation. It is only filled when required from a main tank with a 10 micron filter, then used almost immediately, so I don’t bother filtering the fuel again. If I was to have a permanent mounted tank and leave fuel in it I would consider a filter and water trap a good investment.
Graham
 

CM1995

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Graham it has it's own pump, nozzle and dispenser. I have had good luck with GPI pumps.

IMG_0121.JPG IMG_0120.JPG
 

CM1995

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I live in a sub-tropical environment that gets more rain per year than Seattle WA, a filter is a must on a fuel tank as condensation inside the tank is a constant battle.

Also I have drained too many steel fuel tanks in my career and every single one had a shocking amount of rust inside. That's why I went aluminum this time.
 

CM1995

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Graham what materials do you process with the screen bucket and how well does it work?

On a side note I heard a rumor that Ford is bringing the Ranger back to the US with a diesel option. Chevy has put a diesel in the Canyon. How do you like yours?
 

Graham1

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Graham what materials do you process with the screen bucket and how well does it work?

On a side note I heard a rumor that Ford is bringing the Ranger back to the US with a diesel option. Chevy has put a diesel in the Canyon. How do you like yours?

I normally screen bullets out of sand. It works well for that, but you need to make sure the brushes are in good condition or it will clog easily.
I like the ranger. I have the 3.2l automatic. Plenty of power to tow to our limit of 3500kg and very comfortable compared to my last pickup, a Landrover Defender. The only downside was it broke a piston ring at 62,000 miles, 2000 out of warranty, so Ford we no help even though it was less than two years old.
 

Graham1

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Graham … Bullets ? Nato 5.56 are pretty small … So you must be doing 50 caliber or better. Tell us more ..
Mainly 5.56 and 9mm. With sieve the sand through 5 x 30mm slots. Most outdoor bullets catchers (berms to you) are covered in sand so it is easy to recover the bullets. We have contracts to clean out mainly military ranges to prevent build up behind the target causing ricochet or backsplash.
Can’t think of any ranges we cover that are licensed for 50 cal, too powerful. If they miss there is not enough clear land behind.
 
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suladas

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Evidently we are doing something wrong then as we have never had any issues with dirty fuel.
Pay more attention to the nozzle being dirty if worried about fuel being dirty.

Doesn't mean everyone who doesn't run a filter will have an issue, or just because you have a filter doesn't mean you won't. But a filter just makes the chances much lower. There is a reason in all types of trucks and equipment filtration is always improving. Like I said, a good 95% of the tanks I see have filters on them, i'd say there is a reason for it.
 

old-iron-habit

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You bet a 100 gallon tank needs baffles. Not only will it cause the tank to move, or tear the mounts over a matter of time from panic stops, but it will eventually destroy the tank. I wouldn't have a tank without baffles on my trucks. Wouldn't trust anyone who would build one without them. Not only does it stop fuel from sloshing around, it's extra support for the tank.

My old 110 gal L shape steel tank does not have baffles. Realistically it carries 100 usable gallons with air expansion space. When at 50 gallons the wide bottom base is full and does not slop to where it is noticeable. The upper part has never caused a issue. Now curious, I looked at new ones in Northern Tool and also in L & M Supply and never seen baffles in any of them. I've had mine for 40 years and it has not been a issue yet or moved around yet. I have seen a few that friends owned that leaked because fine road rocks from our "excellent" gravel roads got under them causing wear. Seems to be worse with checker plate flatbeds. I use a piece of conveyor belting under mine and it has been no issue. Square or rectangle tanks may behave differently.
 

Hallback

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Most every baffled tank I have ever had has leaked at the baffle welds, when you bolt the tank down the flexing causes them to crack right at the Baffle welding
 
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