Bubbles! :crying I still have bubbles! :crying Acts like it did before. I don’t know what to think. I was sure I eliminated everything from the tank to the engine. I put a clear hose after the pump, I didn’t see any damn bubbles. The only thing left is the pump. I’ll double check the fittings but I think a new pump is in order. The hard part is done, it did need at least one injector and the valves set.
One thing about the bridge clearance on the rear set of valves #2 cylinder. I think that is what was making the engine loose power (post #1) and having a different sound towards the end of the haul up the hill. (post #7)
With zero clearance, when the valves get hot and expand they wouldn’t close and loose compression.
Compression is #1-325, #2-360, #3-310 That’s a cold engine and using the starter. The book says to run the engine at 600 RPM for each cylinder checked at operating temperature. REALLY?
After I put the new injectors in I checked the valve clearance on #1 cylinder (which I didn’t do before) and they were both .020. So front to back was .020, .020 .027, zero, .016 and .033
To add to my problems, getting a decent manual has been difficult, but that’s the way it is in my world. The one from Yesterdays Tractor was good but out dated (returned). I ordered one from a dealer and is was one thick 1 1/2” book with glued solid binding that looked like a cheep reprint with faded pages. (returned!!). Ordered this one from eBay, an original manual copyright 1990 material (Revised / Updated from the original issue dated February 1985 edition). Publication Number: 6SE202 Printed in the U.S.A.
EBAY LINK I haven’t gotten it yet but I think it’s a keeper. The price went up $30 after I got mine.
The valves are set to .026 and the injectors are set to 1.496. I readjusted the fuel rod and the control levers, their set even on all the injectors. So far I haven’t messed with the governor.
