D8R hot trans?

[Nige]

I'd be interested to know what is in the hole where the tee is supposed to screw into the case of the machine - arrowed. If that is open like the end of the hose then major amounts of dirt have been getting into the transmission via the back end of the machine as well as what has been getting into the converter via the open end of the hose.



From the looks of the photos that machine needs a good pressure washing in the area of the Hell Hole before the floor goes back in. I can see at least one oil leak, there may be more under all the dirt. After all the effort to remove the seat and raise the floorplate IMHO it would be time well spent to get things cleaned up under there and fix any leaks that are visible before putting the floor back. But BEFORE hitting it with the pressure washer all the open holes, such as the hose for the missing transmission breather, ought to be closed up or fixed. You don't want to be washing dirt into the machine systems.

 

[nicky 68a]

On another note,My D8R handbook states that speeds on the implement pump can be slowed or sped up?
I had an implement pump failure a couple of years ago,s/x pump from Cat was around 5k.
Put clean up filters in it and worked fine to this day.
However,I swear it worked slower on the lift,but it doesn't really affect the job.
I also change the engine oil,fuel,steering and tranny filter every 250 hours with new engine oil at 250 hours,tranny oil 2000 hours and final drive oil every 500 hours.
Hyd oil at 2000 hours too.
I only use Cat oil and filters,and some will say I'm throwing good oil away.

 

[Robert0769]

Yes would be handy to know what that tag says in the image that ends with 8226-JPG

Here is what SIS shows for the location of the transmission breather:

View attachment 199899

I'm looking for the breather and T location now. Between the trans and torque converter would be under the floorboard more toward the front right? I don't see anything toward the back

 

[Robert0769]

Here's the breather I believe. That hose that connects to nothing is something else. It's directly under the left side of the seat. I'll try to get a number off it. Everything is pretty dirty

 

[Robert0769]

I'd be interested to know what is in the hole where the tee is supposed to screw into the case of the machine - arrowed. If that is open like the end of the hose then major amounts of dirt have been getting into the transmission via the back end of the machine as well as what has been getting into the converter via the open end of the hose.

View attachment 199919

From the looks of the photos that machine needs a good pressure washing in the area of the Hell Hole before the floor goes back in. I can see at least one oil leak, there may be more under all the dirt. After all the effort to remove the seat and raise the floorplate IMHO it would be time well spent to get things cleaned up under there and fix any leaks that are visible before putting the floor back. But BEFORE hitting it with the pressure washer all the open holes, such as the hose for the missing transmission breather, ought to be closed up or fixed. You don't want to be washing dirt into the machine systems.

6Y4046
F01

This is the tag on that hose

 

[Nige]

You are correct. That is the breather.
6Y-4046 is one of two hoses on the steering lines. I wonder (out loud) if someone has bypassed a filter somewhere..?
Can you find where the other end of that same hose goes..?

 

[Robert0769]

You are correct. That is the breather.
6Y-4046 is one of two hoses on the steering lines. I wonder (out loud) if someone has bypassed a filter somewhere..?
Can you find where the other end of the hose goes..?

So far I followed the hose and it goes under the left fender area. Will have to take more apart to follow it

 

[Nige]

I’ll see if I can post up some info regarding where the hose goes.
Not too good, but you might get the idea. This is looking from the front of the tractor towards the back. It appears as though they come from the steering pump and end up somewhere on top at the test points for the system (circled). Although the 6Y-4046 don't go all the way to the test points. It only goes as far as the connectors #46.

 

[Robert0769]

I’ll see if I can post up some info regarding where the hose goes.
Not too good, but you might get the idea. This is looking from the front of the tractor towards the back. It appears as though they come from the steering pump and end up somewhere on top at the test points for the system (circled). Although the 6Y-4046 don't go all the way to the test points. It only goes as far as the connectors #46.

View attachment 200140

So that hose is disconnected on both ends. It also has damage in the middle. I think it was replaced and just left there because it's tied to another hose with a clamp. I looked at all connections down there and don't see any disconnected. So I think it's just a trash hose and they didn't want to take the time to unclamp it.

Also found this little electric cover. 'Cause you know, burly men don't need instructions. (It was just sitting free on the bottom after I cleaned everything)

By the way, did you know these machines are actually yellow when clean?

 

[Robert0769]

I'm off to get the pressure hose for the gauge and the quick connect end.

Again, I did the cylinder leak test, cylinders all the way retracted, loosen hose, pull back to lift. At first no change then fluid did stream after about 5 seconds. You would think a lot more fluid would gush out so I'll do the pressure gauge test. If the pressure is good that means repack the cylinders?

That was one think I said needed to be done before I bought it but they obviously didn't.

 

[Robert0769]

No. Only coolant analysis has two levels - 1 & 2. Normally a Level 1 is done every 500-1000 hours and a Level 2 every 2-4000 operating hours.
Approximately how many gallons of fuel were you burning in a typical day..? The normal way is to relate how many gallons of fuel are burned for every quart of top-up oil added, provided that the engine has no visible external oil leaks.
Testing the implement pressure is not as simple as it is on some machines. The test points are under the floor and you need to remove both the operator seat and the floor panel to access them. See the illustration below. If you want a full procedure send me a PM with your email address.
View attachment 199483

So I sent a picture of my machine that looks like it matches A and B.

You said tilt the blade all the way then I connect the pressure gauge to A and tilt the same way and read pressure then connect to B and do the same thing? Both can tilt left and read pressure from both separately?

 

[Nige]

Answering your last point first. Blade on the ground, connect the quick coupler and gauge to Test Point A.
1. Start engine and set throttle to High Idle. Note the pressure on the gauge, it should be around 435psi. I know the gauge you are using is a 6000psi one and it won't be totally accurate at that sort of pressure, but it will give an idea.
2. Reduce engine speed. Raise the blade so that the lift cylinders are about half-way. Stop lifting. Tilt the blade all the way to the Tilt Left or Tilt Right position (makes no difference which). When the tilt cylinder will not move any more, keep the control in the full Tilt position and raise the engine speed to High Idle. Record the pressure on the gauge

 

[Nige]

I'm off to get the pressure hose for the gauge and the quick connect end.

Again, I did the cylinder leak test, cylinders all the way retracted, loosen hose, pull back to lift. At first no change then fluid did stream after about 5 seconds. You would think a lot more fluid would gush out so I'll do the pressure gauge test. If the pressure is good that means repack the cylinders?

That was one think I said needed to be done before I bought it but they obviously didn't.

As John C posted earlier, the blade lift cylinders have valves in the pistons that when the cylinders are at full stroke oil can pass from one side of the piston to the other, so what I suggested will not work. Instead try a lift cylinder drift test.

1. Check the hydraulic oil temperature. Use the temperature along with the table below. Make sure you get the hydraulic system at least a little bit warm.
2. Lift the blade until the cutting edge is approximately 300 mm (12 inch) off the ground. Put the dozer lift control lever in the HOLD position, stop the engine.
3. Measure the extension of the lift cylinder rods from the lift cylinders. Record the distance that was measured. Wrapping some insulation tape around the chrome rod gives you a good point to measure from.
4. Record the distance and check the time that the cylinders extend. Compare the readings with the chart below.

 

[Robert0769]

As John C posted earlier, the blade lift cylinders have valves in the pistons that when the cylinders are at full stroke oil can pass from one side of the piston to the other, so what I suggested will not work. Instead try a lift cylinder drift test.

1. Check the hydraulic oil temperature. Use the temperature along with the table below.
2. Lift the blade until the cutting edge is approximately 300 mm (12 inch) off the ground. Put the dozer lift control lever in the HOLD position, stop the engine.
3. Measure the extension of the lift cylinder rods from the lift cylinders. Record the distance that was measured.
4. Record the distance and check the time that the cylinders extend. Compare the readings with the chart below.
View attachment 200143

I'll try this lift test. However I can tell you that the blade stays up forever, doesn't really go down on it's its own. The rippers go down over a shorter time, an hour or so, but the blade stays up

 

[Robert0769]

Answering your last point first. Blade on the ground, connect the quick coupler and gauge to Test Point A.
1. Start engine and set throttle to High Idle. Note the pressure on the gauge, it should be around 435psi. I know the gauge you are using is a 6000psi one and it won't be totally accurate at that sort of pressure, but it will give an idea.
2. Reduce engine speed. Raise the blade so that the lift cylinders are about half-way. Stop lifting. Tilt the blade all the way to the Tilt Left or Tilt Right position (makes no difference which). When the tilt cylinder will not move any more, keep the control in the full Tilt position and raise the engine speed to High Idle. Record the pressure on the gauge

The quick connect doesn't fit :/ Seems too big. I'm asking cat if they have a smaller one

 

[John C.]

You need to make sure all the pressure is out of the circuit you are plugging into. You will need to make sure all the implements are on the ground first, removed the hydraulic tank cap slowly and let off the air pressure and then move all the controls around with the engine off to make sure all the pressure is gone.

 

[Robert0769]

You need to make sure all the pressure is out of the circuit you are plugging into. You will need to make sure all the implements are on the ground first, removed the hydraulic tank cap slowly and let off the air pressure and then move all the controls around with the engine off to make sure all the pressure is gone.

I can push the inner circle on the male part in with a tool and it keeps leaking. Do I push until the leaking stops? It still won't connect

 

[Robert0769]

Can't get the gauge on so I pushed the tool in the quick connect while the machine was running. I got a nice shower.

Must be the cylinder or something wrong with the control. When I pull it back it doesn't have any pressure. I wonder if it got disconnected somehow

 

[Robert0769]

As John C posted earlier, the blade lift cylinders have valves in the pistons that when the cylinders are at full stroke oil can pass from one side of the piston to the other, so what I suggested will not work. Instead try a lift cylinder drift test.

1. Check the hydraulic oil temperature. Use the temperature along with the table below. Make sure you get the hydraulic system at least a little bit warm.
2. Lift the blade until the cutting edge is approximately 300 mm (12 inch) off the ground. Put the dozer lift control lever in the HOLD position, stop the engine.
3. Measure the extension of the lift cylinder rods from the lift cylinders. Record the distance that was measured. Wrapping some insulation tape around the chrome rod gives you a good point to measure from.
4. Record the distance and check the time that the cylinders extend. Compare the readings with the chart below.
View attachment 200143

Moved 1.25"

 

[Robert0769]

I got to the control. The one that controls up and down has some black build up on it that looks like a tiny leak. Could that be the issue?