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D8N engine rebuild. Couple of questions.

Alberta Cowman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2015
Messages
48
Location
Alberta
Hi guys.

I appreciate all the info. Unfortunately I've been dealing with some personal stuff and this project got on the back burner for a bit.

I was preoccupied when my machine shop finished checking the crank and cam, rebuilding the head and reshimming the counterbores. Seeing as he had all the internal components and I had no time at that point I got him to assemble it. I'm not sure which cylinder packs he ended up going with. He's on holidays now so it will be a while before I can ask him.

Just got started on this again a few day ago. I opened the torque converter. I was hesitant as I've never been inside one before but it was fairly straight forward. The bearings showed wear so I replaced them and the seal rings. The turbine, impeller, and stator all had machining marks yet. The sun and planet gears showed some wear so I replaced them.

I replaced any of the hydraulic and transmission lines that were easy to get at. Also the engine oil pump too.

Finally got the engine and torque bolted in. The shelves of parts are starting to get smaller so it feels like we're making headway.

Hoping to get her buttoned up this week. Thanks for the help.
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Nige

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
28,974
Location
G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
Congrats on what you're done so far. Kudos for replacing the engine oil pump as well.

I think if it was mine I'd want to establish the Part Numbers of the cylinder packs and piston cooling jets that went into the rebuild before I turned the key. In fact I don't think I'd be doing any more assembly on the machine just in case that engine has to come back out again. For the amount of money spent on the rebuild it would be a shame to have something go South just for want of making sure the correct parts went into it.
 

Alberta Cowman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2015
Messages
48
Location
Alberta
Congrats on what you're done so far. Kudos for replacing the engine oil pump as well.

I think if it was mine I'd want to establish the Part Numbers of the cylinder packs and piston cooling jets that went into the rebuild before I turned the key. In fact I don't think I'd be doing any more assembly on the machine just in case that engine has to come back out again. For the amount of money spent on the rebuild it would be a shame to have something go South just for want of making sure the correct parts went into it.

Took some time but I finally ascertained my machine shop used the updated 20R-1115 cylinder packs and 290-6567 piston cooling jets. He's a very meticulous German who takes pride in his work. But this does make me feel a little better too knowing that everything is up to snuff.

What would you recommend for a start up procedure? I filled the transmission and hydraulic reservoir to slightly over full. Do I need to fill the torque converter or will the transmission charge pump do that? I oiled all the bearings and seal rings when I assembled it.

As far as the engine I've usually just started in the shop and monitored oil pressure and check for leaks for 10-15 minutes then out the door and put to hard work.

Thanks for all the advice.
 

Alberta Cowman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2015
Messages
48
Location
Alberta
$$$$$$$$$$$
Well I'm still just shy of $30k in parts. That is Canadian pesos mind you. Includes a lot of "while we're in here lets do it" stuff. There's a few grand just in hoses because they look like originals yet. Not sure what this would have cost at a shop. I stopped counting hours a couple days in. Lol. Good thing I work for cheap.
 

Alberta Cowman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2015
Messages
48
Location
Alberta
Did you recheck crankshaft end play after you installed the torque converter? It only takes about a minute but if the torque converter pushes the crank forward, that check could save you thousands.

Thanks for the heads up. Wouldn't have crossed my mind.

Just checked and its at .012". Which is in the middle of the spec.

Thank you.
 

cuttin edge

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2014
Messages
2,690
Location
NB Canada
Occupation
Finish grader operator
Forgot the D. I don't have an 8N, but I do have a tea20. No attachments for it, just a fixer upper that belonged to my grandfather
 

Alberta Cowman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2015
Messages
48
Location
Alberta
Finally got everything hooked up. Went to start it and she cranked real slow and some smoke signals from the starter. My dad who usually operates it had mentioned the starter was getting weak but it slipped my mind. Open the starter up and it was a carboned up mess inside as the seal was leaking and the brushes were shot.

Quick run to town for a new one and she spun over way better. Had oil pressure after just a few seconds. Had her primed and running after maybe another 40 seconds of cranking total.

Have 60 psi engine oil pressure at an idle and no leaks.

The coolant flow alarm was going off. Finally traced it down to a bad ground wire on the sensor circuit. Still haven't quite figured out the purpose of it though? Seems kind of redundant with a coolant temp gauge and warning light.

Just need to install the hood, canopy, c frame and blade.

Thanks for the help.
 

Nige

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
28,974
Location
G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
The coolant flow alarm was going off. Finally traced it down to a bad ground wire on the sensor circuit. Still haven't quite figured out the purpose of it though? Seems kind of redundant with a coolant temp gauge and warning light.
Consider the coolant flow indicator as just another insurance policy. If you lose a fan belt or a water pump impeller or something like that the coolant flow is going to be the first alarm to go off. Like car insurance, always good to have it and not need it than need it and not have it, especially when you consider how much $$ you put into the engine rebuild.
 

cuttin edge

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2014
Messages
2,690
Location
NB Canada
Occupation
Finish grader operator
Consider the coolant flow indicator as just another insurance policy. If you lose a fan belt or a water pump impeller or something like that the coolant flow is going to be the first alarm to go off. Like car insurance, always good to have it and not need it than need it and not have it, especially when you consider how much $$ you put into the engine rebuild.
Agreed. Sometimes those Temps can sneak up on you. I find when I'm grading, I tend to neglect the gauges, especially on our maintainer graders as they are over my head. One night, I pushed the snow banks back on 4kms of road with the loader. Back and forth, back and forth all night. Warning light and buzzer went off as the trans temperature was up and I hadn't noticed
 

Alberta Cowman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2015
Messages
48
Location
Alberta
Well I figured it's time for an update.

She has 100 hours and no surprises yet.

I have a pic of when I hauled it to the 1/4 we're clearing bush on but haven't been back to see it till today as we had to replace a broken pin on the brush rake. My dads cousin has been running it and he's the kind of guy who you just have to tell him which direction you'd like the brush piles and he's off. He's got it all walked down and about 30 acres piled so far.

I'll try and post a video but I've never done that before.

Thanks for all the help.

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