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D6T Transmission Fault When Calibrating
- Thread starter PMW
- Start date
Yes all 3. And slid that collar left
Mobiltech
Senior Member
Sounds like you have everything right. The sliding collar will only move over about an 1 1/2”.
I wonder if the big O-Ring on the front collar is binding enough to hold it back. Some of them do take a fair bit of torque on the forcing bolts to come out. Just make sure you have all the mounting bolts completely out around the rear flange.
Maybe post some pics of the rear of the machine.
We all love a good rear end pic.
I wonder if the big O-Ring on the front collar is binding enough to hold it back. Some of them do take a fair bit of torque on the forcing bolts to come out. Just make sure you have all the mounting bolts completely out around the rear flange.
Maybe post some pics of the rear of the machine.
We all love a good rear end pic.
I really think the front is released because when I watch it as someone torques the bolts it moves rearward and then comes back when they take bolts out. Something binding it seams but I guess we could throw more bolts on it and keep trying
I’ll post pictures
Attachments
tctractors
Senior Member
Push it back home and have another go of pulling the coupling off the left hand drive, you will need to leave some long bolts in the gear case as a guide, there is a measurement for the depth in to hook on and a depth to be clear. Did you remove the round plate behind the spider drive.
Yes I’ve got it out now. Must just have been that rubber seal that was holding it back. Took a lot of force with all 4 force bolts with longer thread to break loose. We’ve got it out and cleaning it now
Nige
Senior Member
No. Just real dark oil for the most part.
tctractors
Senior Member
Never in my life has the rubber seal been an issue, the drive was not pulled off enough chap, when you drain out all the oil from the back tray you will see enough crap don't worry, it takes a small speck of crud to stop the modulation valves from working, another important thing to do is drain down the Transmission filter case and clean the bowl out, the drain plug is under the fender, remove the plug from underneath before you lift out the filter cartridge, you are going to need the clean up filter fitted after this major mash up you have.
tctractors
Senior Member
Just thought to say you will need a full set of springs as any nutty temp will make them weak or knackered, you can check the length and tension but hardly worth messing with, first speed clutch usually fails on the seal area only with the plate stack still good, 2nd speed clutch with its couple of plates is near always Stuffed, the clutch runs a higher pressure that first when calibrated I think its 370 psi.
Nige
Senior Member
Do you have a Part Number off the top of your head Tony.? I thought about it yesterday but when I looked at the standard filter element P/N I couldn’t see a cleanout element equivalent for it.
Nige
Senior Member
I was going to say that if he could get hold of the former 1R-1809 element from somewhere that would work as a cleanout element in the short term (first 20 hours or so). Either way after the rebuild i would suggest changing the filter at no more than 50 operating hours and do a filter cut on the old one to check for condition.
I remember the confusion when that change away from 1R-1809 happened. We had machines that previously used it for both powertrai and hydraulics now needing separate Part Numbers depending on location.
I remember the confusion when that change away from 1R-1809 happened. We had machines that previously used it for both powertrai and hydraulics now needing separate Part Numbers depending on location.
Nige
Senior Member
3 weeks have gone by and no update or questions. Progress report.?
So just an update here with not much progress yet. We got the rebuilt trans back and put it all together. Put in td4 oil and tried it. Won’t move… tq output shaft is spinning only on startup, when I try engage fwd or rev it stops spinning and won’t start again when going back to neutral. Get a code that’s not shown up before and that’s “torque converter output speed sensor intermittent/ erratic” .
Shop that fixed transmission is telling me it’s had similar issues in older machine where it was just the speed sensor but doesn’t know for sure. Wondering what your guy’s thoughts were on it?
Shop that fixed transmission is telling me it’s had similar issues in older machine where it was just the speed sensor but doesn’t know for sure. Wondering what your guy’s thoughts were on it?
Nige
Senior Member
Nige
Senior Member
Here you go. Transmission output speed sensor #2. See attached.
However I will point out that provided transmission output speed sensor #1 is still giving a good genuine signal the transmission should function normally. That's why there are two sensors - redundancy.
Question: Did the company who did the transmission repair/overhaul install the following new parts that are usually standard for any rebuild. If not is there any reason why.?
1. All five clutch modulation valves.
2. Transmission wiring harness.
3. Output speed sensors.