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D6R - no reverse, lots of trans codes

Discussion in 'Dozers' started by 02Dmax, May 11, 2013.

  1. 02Dmax

    02Dmax Senior Member

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    One of my good customers has a D6R and was pushing mud the other day, he got off in a hole and water got about 6" over the track frames. When he was backing out the dozer quit moving and wouldn't do anything in any gear forward or backward. So he got it pulled out, and was pushing it onto the lowboy and suddenly it kicked into 2 forward (which is what his selector was placed in) so he loaded it up. Back at the shop they had to pull it off backwards but when they started pushing it forwards it kicked into gear again and drove itself into the shop. (still no reverse or 1st or 3rd forward). The machine is throwing about a dozen tranny codes related to the solenoids so I assume a bad harness or water in a harness somehow. So I pull the seat out and right in front of me where the main cab harness plugs into the short tranny pigtail is a chewed up mess where mice have chewed the insulation off about half of the wires going to the tranny and they're all rubbing together. None of the wires are damaged, the insulation is just gone. So I pull them out of the Deutsch connector one by one, heat shrink new insulation on and replace them back in their terminals. I was 100% sure I'd found the problem, but start it up and it does the same exact thing, only now I have 1st and 2nd forward but still no reverse or 3rd gear. Any ideas? Should I just go ahead and replace the cab harness (not that I'm dying to do that)

    Any pointers are appreciated.
     
  2. Per Eriksson

    Per Eriksson Senior Member

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    What codes do you still have as active?
     
  3. Nige

    Nige Senior Member

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    Do you have an electrical schematic..? If you want one PM me with the S/No and an e-mail address to send it to.
     
  4. 02Dmax

    02Dmax Senior Member

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    S/N is ADE 00379.

    Codes:
    030:
    96.03
    113:
    168.04
    298.02
    299.13
    468.08
    621.02
    623.02
    671.02
    673.02
    691.07
    692.07
     
  5. Nige

    Nige Senior Member

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    Your codes are

    030 096 03 - Monitor System, Fuel Level Sensor, Voltage Above Normal
    113 - Transmission Control
    168 04 - System Voltage, Voltage Below Normal
    298 02 - Service Brake Pedal Switch, Data erratic, intermittent, or incorrect
    299 13 - Trans Lever Position Sensor, Requires calibration
    468 08 - Service Brake Pedal Sensor, Abnormal Frequency, Pulse Width, or Period
    621 02 - Downshift Switch, Data erratic, intermittent, or incorrect
    623 02 - Directional Switch, data erratic, intermittent, or incorrect
    671 02 - Transmission Output Speed Sensor #1, Data erratic, intermittent, or incorrect
    673 02 - Transmission Output Speed Sensor #2, Data erratic, intermittent, or incorrect

    691 07 - Transmission Solenoid #1, Mechanical System not responding properly
    692 07 - Transmission Solenoid #2, Mechanical System not responding properly

    Are all of those Diagnostic Codes listed actually active, or are some of them logged codes..? If some are only logged you should be able to clear them and come back with a shorter list of Codes that need diagnosing.

    I'd look at sorting the 2 transmission speed sensors (if they are active codes) as a first step.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2013
  6. lantraxco

    lantraxco Senior Member

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    In a former life I worked for a CAT dealer as a parts geek. We ordered those speed sensors by the gross, horribly failure prone.
     
  7. caterpillarmech

    caterpillarmech Senior Member

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    Failure prone, maybe. Cheap insurance though. One over speed condition is enough to wipe out and engine or transmission. I would rather buy a $100 sensor.
    Let us know when you get the codes clear and get a better picture of what you are fighting. May still be water or dirt in a few plugs that is fighting you.
     
  8. Bob/Ont

    Bob/Ont Senior Member

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    If you backed or slid into deep muddy water and recovered the machine, look at the water line and disconnect, clean and reconnect all trans wireing harnesses. Then try it again.
    Assumeing the trans worked alright before it should work alright again when dried out.
    Later Bob
     
  9. Chisumtrail

    Chisumtrail Well-Known Member

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    Did you check transmission for water? Have had two 6Ms get in water deep enough in water that the drive line got under water. With a hard oil seal the spinning drive shaft pushed water into transmission. You can switch forward and reverse solenoids and see if it changes, the direction it goes in. If it has a sticking solenoid it will not show a code.
     
  10. 02Dmax

    02Dmax Senior Member

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    I swapped the solenoids the other day and it made no difference. can you clear the codes through the monitor or do I need to plug in to clear them? I could have the operator clear them and read whats left since he lives about a mile from the machine and it'd save me a trip.
     
  11. Nige

    Nige Senior Member

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    Not sure about that, I'd have to check. I'll get back to you later- just off out for lunch.
     
  12. Nige

    Nige Senior Member

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    OK, I think you can do this simply with a couple of 6" long pieces of automotive wire bared for 1/2" at each end to use as a jumper cable. It really it needs a 4C-8195 "click box" (do a search on here, the details have been posted before) to do it right but jumper cables should still work.

    1. Find the Monitor System service connector. It is a square 4-pin connector in the panel behind the operator's seat, right next to the round 9-pin Datalink service connector.
    2. The wires leading to that connector will be numbered 290 Black, 291 Black, 201 Black, & E375 Purple.
    3. Take the two 6" pieces of wire and twist one end of each together so that basically you have 2 parallel pieces of wire terminating in a common end. You may have to trim the end down so that the resulting twisted cable will fit into the connector.
    4. Connect the common end of the jumper cable into the connector pin of wire 201 Black. It will remain there for the whole procedure. The other 2 ends should be hanging loose.
    5. Connect the 2 free ends of the jumper cable to the respective connector pins of wires 290 & 291. The Monitor Panel on the dash will start to scroll though the various Modes, -1-, -2-, etc. Remove the wires when the Monitor Display shows Mode -3- which is the Service Mode.
    6. To scroll through the various Diagnostic Codes touch one of the loose jumper ends to wire 290. When a code appears on the Monitor Panel screen remove the jumper wire.
    7. To clear the Code touch one of the loose jumper ends to wire 291. The Code will disappear if it is a logged Code.
    8. Repeat Steps 6 & 7 as you scroll though the list of Codes. You may have to go through the list of codes a couple of times to get all the Logged ones, it's easy to miss one.

    Whatever you're left with should be the Active Codes. You'll be able to confirm that by the fact that "SERV CODE" logo on the bottom RH side of the Monitor Panel will illuminate when you scroll to that code.

    Once you have a list of Active Codes post them here and we can move on.
     
  13. 02Dmax

    02Dmax Senior Member

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    Thanks Nige, got all the codes cleared and the only one left is the fuel sensor code. But thats kind of irrelevant now. I ended up taking the manipulator valves apart and a couple were sticking. Cleaned it up and everything works great. Thanks for the help anyhow guys. Pretty sure it still needs those speed sensors in the tranny though too. throws that code every now and then.
     
  14. 02Dmax

    02Dmax Senior Member

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    Well, fixed it for a day. Now it acts like its slipping, my guess is some clutch material or shrapnel of some sort is messing up those manipulator valves and the tranny needs overhauled.
     
  15. Nige

    Nige Senior Member

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    Has it thrown any Diagnostic Codes since you cleared them all (except the fuel level sensor that is)...?

    If it has e-mail me the list of Codes amd I'll send you a diagnostic procedure for each of them. The most sophisticated tool required will be an electrical tester.

    Have you tried looking in the filters/screens for the Powertrain to check for debris, especially traces of transmission clutch friction material..?
     
  16. 02Dmax

    02Dmax Senior Member

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    Ya, I put a new filter in it right off the bat and cut the old one apart. Didn't find anything. I've had the rear plate off several times and there wasn't anything in any of the solenoid valves and the inside of the case is clean as a pin.

    671.02
    673.02
    691.07
    692.07

    are all logged codes and none of those are active. 673.02 goes active every once in a while but only for a few seconds. But when it does go active the tranny light comes on and the alarm horn sounds.

    The operator seems to think that when it gets warm it starts slipping but sometimes if he shuts it off it kinda resets itself and works good for awhile, but sometimes shutting it off doesn't make a difference either.
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2013
  17. jake980

    jake980 Well-Known Member

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    did you look in the magnetic screen?... there is a service letter for those 671.02 and 673.02 codes if my memory hasn't failed me.... Ill look into it and get back to you... If I remember right it has to do with a failure inside the transmission....
     
  18. 02Dmax

    02Dmax Senior Member

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    Do you mean the screen behind the plate with 4 bolts in the bottom rear of the tranny? We've gotten debris out of it before but nothing recently.
     
  19. Z2898

    Z2898 Well-Known Member

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    Just a couple things. Always if a clutch is worn out or piston seal is damaged it will slip under load. If operator says sometimes it slips and sometimes not I don't think you have a clutch problem. Also you probably would/should have seen clutch material in the old filter.

    I know the solenoid valves very well. If the little spool hangs up inside the aluminum body it will affect clutch fill and pressure. It is possible for it to stick while compensating for normal leakage at the piston. It is not reccomended to remove-clean-reinstall. To many issues with hanging spools in the valve body. Well worth the cost to install complete new valve assemblies considering the significant cost of a damaged transmission. Find out what gears are slipping-swap solenoid valves on transmission to confirm. Problem should follow valve to the clutch it went on to. Then replace bad valve assembly-complete.

    Hope this helps!

    Z