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D6c falling out of gear, grinding

tnc110

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Joined
Oct 2, 2011
Messages
224
Location
western nc
Seems like it only happens in second gear reverse. It will pop out of gear and then you hear gears grinding , sounds like it's not fully in gear and /or in between gears. is there an adjustment that can be made or what's going on here? Power shift model. 10k series.
 
Last edited:

tnc110

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Joined
Oct 2, 2011
Messages
224
Location
western nc
Update. Ran it for about an hour and never had a repeat issue. However left-hand-drive gave out feels like there is a problem in the valve as there is no resistance when you pull lever versus the right hand side.
 

56wrench

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Dec 4, 2016
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2,074
Location
alberta
in my opinion, if there is any gear noise, there is a failure in progress, and the powershift needs to be removed and repaired before more gears are destroyed. the gears are always in constant mesh and speed+direction changes are made with wet clutch-packs. when a planetary gearset starts to fail, usually one gear starts to fail, it tells a friend and it tells another friend and so on until it piles up the whole gearset. it can get real expensive in a hurry, especially on larger machines. the point is, check the trans filter and suction screen for filings and debris and do not use it until the cause of the noise is found
 

tnc110

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Joined
Oct 2, 2011
Messages
224
Location
western nc
I let it cool down for 2 hours got back on it and both clutches were working fine for about 2 minutes and then the left side gave out again I'm guessing it's a pressure issue I don't know much about these things though. Does the drive operate off of hydraulic pressure?
 

DMiller

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Feb 21, 2010
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16,432
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Hermann, Missouri
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Cheap "old" Geezer
More than likely seals issues, the clutches use hydraulic pressure to actuate the clutches for the steer are engaged until pull the lever then hydraulically release, is your machine not steering or not pulling?
 

tnc110

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Oct 2, 2011
Messages
224
Location
western nc
It's not pulling... when it acts up only the right side pulls.

I fooled with it again today. Problem is intermittent.
 

DMiller

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Feb 21, 2010
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Hermann, Missouri
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Cheap "old" Geezer
Start looking for metal remains in the sumps, pop the drains and sample the fluids, do not have to drain empty unless hear chunks hit the drain pan. I am thinking something is busted in the bevel gear/clutch section. The reason it fails in reverse is due to the angle of the break or the pressure direction of a failed bearing/shaft.
 

Old Magnet

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Joined
May 11, 2010
Messages
2,003
Location
Corralitos, California
Some pressure readings on the system would help. Loss of oil pressure to the transmission and steering clutches would have those symptoms. Most common source is 0-ring failure at the connection tube going into the transmission controls which allows oil to be dumped into the transmission.
 

DoyleX

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2013
Messages
571
Location
Minnesota
Occupation
Lever Puller, Gear Jammer, Pipe Twister
On top of the rear gearcase is your seat and steering valve. 2 elbows go towards the back and into the gearcase from the steering valve, they have pipe plugs in the test ports. Screw in a gauge on a hose on each side and go to work. You will be able to see whats going on inside with those gauges. Should be around 300psi or better.

Trans, torque, gearcase filter is under the floor on left side. This will be a faster way to diagnose this. A paper filter is on the left engine for this system also.
 

tnc110

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Joined
Oct 2, 2011
Messages
224
Location
western nc
Took magnetic separator apart today. It was full of needle bearings. Needles were approximately 1"long x 1/8" diameter (just guessing dimensions) any guesses a which bearings would be this small? Location? How hard to change?
Bevel gear shaft/bearings seems fine.
 

DMiller

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Feb 21, 2010
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Hermann, Missouri
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Cheap "old" Geezer
Ever have one of these out tnc? May want to call around to some independents that work these, not for the fainthearted or the tooling light person.
 

tnc110

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Joined
Oct 2, 2011
Messages
224
Location
western nc
No I haven't. I will more than likely take it some where. I was just hoping it was something fairly easy that I could tackle. If trans needs pulled I'm definitely out! Any idea what I should be looking to spend to have trans r/r and fixed. I know there is no telling until it gets pulled apart. But are we talking $5k? $10k $15k? Trying to decide my next move. Might trade in on a newer machine. Or have fixed and sell outright. It's a nice dozer. Undercarriage is strong. It was just painted a few months ago. I enjoy ruining the old girl, but a 12' blade on a relatively light tractor can be aggravating. And it doesn't get much respect when taken to the job (some people/clients look at it as being too old)
 

DMiller

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Feb 21, 2010
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16,432
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Hermann, Missouri
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Cheap "old" Geezer
Any time you come up with fatigue failure parts is time for the experts on these or throw a ton of good money after bad.

Figure high end, around $12k to go thru the entire box CORRECTLY if there is considerable damage, that can decrease as re-useable parts pop up or if the damage is localized and not completely destroyed. Find out who in your area the locals use A LOT, dealer work is usually good but anything that could remain for a hobby machine they will not leave alone. Locals usually will GENERALLY not steer you wrong as they depend on word of mouth referrals to remain making money.
 

epirbalex

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Aug 5, 2017
Messages
548
Location
Akitio
Occupation
peasant
No I haven't. I will more than likely take it some where. I was just hoping it was something fairly easy that I could tackle. If trans needs pulled I'm definitely out! Any idea what I should be looking to spend to have trans r/r and fixed. I know there is no telling until it gets pulled apart. But are we talking $5k? $10k $15k? Trying to decide my next move. Might trade in on a newer machine. Or have fixed and sell outright. It's a nice dozer. Undercarriage is strong. It was just painted a few months ago. I enjoy ruining the old girl, but a 12' blade on a relatively light tractor can be aggravating. And it doesn't get much respect when taken to the job (some people/clients look at it as being too old)
Taking out the box won't be too big a problem , not like you can ruin it . Different to replacing it though . Have you considered purchasing a second hand box , after a check over could be an economic option rather than replacing cogs bearings etc .
 

DMiller

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Feb 21, 2010
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Hermann, Missouri
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Cheap "old" Geezer
On my Old Allis I opted for a junker second machine with a trans still believed to be functional, bought it for less than I could buy a used box from a yard but a yard price was a helluva lot better than the machine sitting for the weeks for me to overhaul it and get parts to do that IF they were still available. Yours should be quite more advantageous to get a replacement used or a reman drop in.
 
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