D5G tracks will not move with flashing code 168 ???

[Nige]

Is this not the new four wire sensor? Right and left sensor look the same.

Both the former and replacement sensors are 4-wire. The difference between them is that on the former design the connector on the machine harness plugs directly into the body of the sensor, as per your photo. On the new design sensor it has 4 wires coming out of the sensor body and the machine harness plugs into a connector that you have to install on the end of those wires. Hope that makes sense.

Does that mean the original sensor is not available? Only the new style replacement? Does this look like one of them?

The former Part Number 183-4584 is no longer available from Cat. It has been updated to a newer number as mentioned above. The former Part Number had a habit of leaking oil from the motor into the sensor body which would result in the sensor not working.

Your photo shows the former design, I assume it is an aftermarket part. If what is in the box is the same as the photo it would be plug & play on your machine. IMHO it all depends how much faith you have in non-OEM electronic parts.

Oh, and if you remove a motor speed sensor from the machine be ready to catch some oil because it will spill.

 

[Richie Nell]

Ok. Thanks

 

[Richie Nell]

Just a thought, last time I had sensor replaced, the machine didn’t go in neutral/park like now. It would just steer and move slowly.

 

[Nige]

Sorry for poor photo quality but this was installed on a machine. This is what the new P/N sensor from Cat looks like.
The body is square with the wires coming out to the right side then round in an "S" shape to meet the connector plug of the machine harness in the rectangle.

 

[Nige]

Just a thought, last time I had sensor replaced, the machine didn’t go in neutral/park like now. It would just steer and move slowly.

Sounds like it could have had oil in it. It wouldn't be surprising for it so emit an incorrect signal as opposed to failing completely.

 

[Richie Nell]

Ok. I just attached all connectors and still get same three plus the 252

And of course put everything back together in order to access those two plugs

 

[Nige]

Ok. I just attached all connectors and still get same three plus the 252

252 is the brake pedal sensor. Should disappear when reconnected. Give both halves of the connector a squirt with contact cleaner and try again, or maybe it is not plugged in fully.?

 

[Richie Nell]

252 is the brake pedal sensor. Should disappear when reconnected. Give both halves of the connector a squirt with contact cleaner and try again, or maybe it is not plugged in fully.?

I did spray it before connecting but perhaps not seated fully. I have a $200 plug n play sensor on the way from ConEquip.

 

[Richie Nell]

Nige, do you know which one of these parts are throwing the 168 code? The part with long prong is located at top of radiator, which is what I thought would be the "coolant temp sensor". Not sure where other one is located. Thanks

 

[Nige]

It's the one located at the top of the radiator - 191-6587.

If you are planning on replacing the sensor be aware that you could just as easily have a wiring problem. Why not try this diagnostic procedure and test whether or not the sensor is actually bad before buying a new one that may or may not fix the problem.

FYI the O-Ring seal for the sensor comes separate - 153-4906.

 

[Richie Nell]

I will test temp sensor. Thanks

 

[Richie Nell]

Temp sensor harness test showed 0.00 volts with ignition ON. With that it passed the test resulting in replacing sensor.

 

[Richie Nell]

Nige,
I installed new speed sensor. Cleaned sensor pins and harness connector. Plugged her in. With ignition to ON and when engine cranked, I get codes 168 and 124....over and over. At least for now the other code, I believe was 426, is gone.

In post #29 and #30 of page 2, I typed the code as 426. You responded as code 246 as being the right track speed sensor. Which was the typo? Thanks

 

[Nige]

I typed the code as 426. You responded as code 246 as being the right track speed sensor. Which was the typo?

Mine was the typo, and for that I must apologize. I was convinced that it was 246 and had to go back and look at Post #30 again to confirm that it was not. Code 426 is related to the circuits for the 8-pin connector that you pull apart to read the Blink Codes. If it has gone for now then hopefully it is nothing to worry about. Again my apologies for steering you in the direction of the RH motor speed sensor.

Did you get anywhere regarding troubleshooting the coolant temperature sensor.? Not that it would stop the machine from moving but if you could fix it and the 168 Code disappeared at least it would give you some confidence that the troubleshooting procedures work and that you are moving in the right direction.

The 124 is worrying. That is related to the 8v sensor supply and AFAIK it will stop the machine if that supply is not working as it should. I know you found nothing in your tests. Maybe it is time to get someone with Cat ET diagnostic software to hook up to the machine and take a look.?

 

[Richie Nell]

Well I appreciate your efforts regardless. The 426 code disappeared for some reason after replacing the speed sensor. With my luck 426 will appear again. Based on the volt test on the temp sensor, it needs replacing but I haven't ordered the part yet. Dozer still will not move an inch. I will probably do the 124 troubleshooting again, I guess. The very last option is to hire a Cat mechanic per hour, and his truck per hour, and his truck transportation both ways and their mysterious $83 miscellanous fee, etc. etc. But I may have to.

 

[Nige]

The very last option is to hire a Cat mechanic per hour,

The other (likely cheaper) option would be to find a local independent mechanic who has ET. Its use is not limited to Cat dealers.

 

[Richie Nell]

The results in ohms testing harness pin connectors either make ohms buzzing sound and or less than 5000 ohms. Am I reading this correctly that the ohms are less than 5000 therefore there is an issue with harness OR does ohms sound indicate no resistance at all?



“NOT OK - The resistance measurement is less than 5000 ohms.
Repair: The machine harness has failed. There is a short between the +battery circuit and the circuit for the sensor power supply in the machine harness. Repair the machine harness or replace the machine harness.”

 

[Richie Nell]

Wonder if this could be the problem. ? It is coming from wiring left of battery

I taped it up and still has 124 code

 

[Nige]

Wonder if this could be the problem. ? It is coming from wiring left of battery

Can you identify the wire number on the Pink wire in the front left of your 1st photo. I think I can see "41" but the 3rd number is covered by dirt. With the wire number the connector, and which circuit it feeds, can be traced.

 

[Nige]

The results in ohms testing harness pin connectors either make ohms buzzing sound and or less than 5000 ohms. Am I reading this correctly that the ohms are less than 5000 therefore there is an issue with harness OR does ohms sound indicate no resistance at all?

I've never used a meter like the one you have so it's hard to tell. If you remember earlier I poisted a link to the user manual for it. Does that give any clues.?

If not then I suggest it might pay you to confirm your results using a different meter.