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D353 engine thrust bearing.

gary808

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Joined
Oct 8, 2009
Messages
218
Location
hawaii
Occupation
operator,maintanence ,fabricator
We thought about grinding down and counter sink bolting on a wear surface back to original specs. We have a lathe that can swing it and a good tool post grinder. But it all sounds iffy when you have to take the machine out on jobs and rely on it not failing.
This situation has already done a number on wearing the con bearings unevenly. We will throw a new set of besrings in it also.
we want to find a better engine when we can afford to but would still like to keep this engine as a spare in the shop incase we ever get stuck. Knowing it's fixed proper is peace of mind. The welded up block is worrysum enough.
We might just try to locate a good block with a standard set of mains and build one our selves or just buy a reman.

Shipping is not to bad via sea freight. We brought over a new set of tracks from Oklahoma and it was about 2k total the move them.
 

gary808

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Oct 8, 2009
Messages
218
Location
hawaii
Occupation
operator,maintanence ,fabricator
Shoot I have to get back to another shop on monday. They said they have a few good d353 cranks laying in their wearhouse they would sell.
Maybe we could just score a crank.
 

Nige

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Jun 22, 2011
Messages
28,984
Location
G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
If you could score a good crank (straight & standard size main/rod journals) that would be probably the quickest and most cost-effective solution.
I may also have some documentation regarding crank inspections and tolerances in respect of straightness, etc, if you're interested.
 
Last edited:

gary808

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Joined
Oct 8, 2009
Messages
218
Location
hawaii
Occupation
operator,maintanence ,fabricator
If you could score a good crank (straight & standard size main/rod journals) that would be probably the quickest and most cost-effective solution.
I may also have some documentation regarding crank inspections and tolerances in respect of straightness, etc, if you're interested.

Thats the thought I have been having. I know this block was welded up and I can only hope they changed the crank out.
I would really appreciate the info on how to measure it.
Would you happen to know where they stamp the part number on the crank? I'm trying to locate it before I reach out to the shop with the cranks.
Thanks.
 

Nige

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Jun 22, 2011
Messages
28,984
Location
G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
If it threw a leg out of bed then I'm as sure as I can be that the crank would have been toasted, the big end that locked up would most certainly have been totally welded to the crank. In those circumstances even a regrind wouldn't be likely to put it right,
As regards where the Part Number is marked on the crank - no idea, maybe OM could come up with something.
 

d9gdon

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2010
Messages
1,517
Location
central texas
If it threw a leg out of bed then I'm as sure as I can be that the crank would have been toasted, the big end that locked up would most certainly have been totally welded to the crank. In those circumstances even a regrind wouldn't be likely to put it right,
As regards where the Part Number is marked on the crank - no idea, maybe OM could come up with something.

Nige, I've always wondered why the D353 had a lot of crankshaft problems.

I have to wonder if it's because those engines lasted for so long and were rebuilt several times in their lifetime that metal fatigue was the ultimate cause of failure, and not really a design problem. I know a lot of them were worked around the clock in mines before the D10 came along.
 

Old Magnet

Senior Member
Joined
May 11, 2010
Messages
2,003
Location
Corralitos, California
Thats the thought I have been having. I know this block was welded up and I can only hope they changed the crank out.
I would really appreciate the info on how to measure it.
Would you happen to know where they stamp the part number on the crank? I'm trying to locate it before I reach out to the shop with the cranks.
Thanks.

Should be raised number on one of the rod throws. Latest would be a 2P2800
 

gary808

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Joined
Oct 8, 2009
Messages
218
Location
hawaii
Occupation
operator,maintanence ,fabricator
So the crank is still in the block. It's stripped down except for the bellhousing. We had to order a better puller to get the governer timing gear off.
So far we found all the pistons are cracked. Number one cylinder has a big split in it. I'm guessing they ran the engine hot with poor fuel pressure or bad injectors or a bad pump.
It's odd because the block was welded on number one cylinder in the past. I'm thinking the issue with the fuel was not corrected?
We also found #4 and #5 on the head have cracked from the injector hole to the exhaust valve seat.
The spacer plate is also bad on #4. It just started to attack the block.

This things a train wreck. :/
I'm glad we ignored all advice of local businesses to "just run it"
 

Bluox

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2010
Messages
1,960
Location
WA state
An outfit in Portland OR. had 2 D-353 take out industrial motors for sale a while back.
Bob
 

gary808

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Joined
Oct 8, 2009
Messages
218
Location
hawaii
Occupation
operator,maintanence ,fabricator
An outfit in Portland OR. had 2 D-353 take out industrial motors for sale a while back.
Bob
We have been looking at a few. Thanks for the heads up.
 
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