d 8n

[John C.]

I've not seen any problems with standard coolant when changed on the manufacturer's recommended schedule. That usually means replacing it every two years or as indicated by analysis. I've seen plenty of rotten systems with brown colored standard coolants that have been used for more than five years and witnessed the cost of failed components.

On the other hand I've seen plenty of machines with the Cat ELC installed for more than six years that showed no solder bloom in the radiator and the operator / mechanics didn't remember ever adding coolant. The stuff is more expensive but well worth the cost in my experience. There is also a light green stuff I've seen being used in the automotive industry that is in my wife's 4Runner that has never been changed since we bought the car. That's at least ten years ago. I'm all for ELC.

 

[StanRUS]

I've not seen any problems with standard coolant when changed on the manufacturer's recommended schedule. That usually means replacing it every two years or as indicated by analysis.

Standard coolants versus NOT following OEM's recommended schedule or NOT READING OEM's maintenance manuals. Using straight glycol anti-freeze as make up coolant means increasing additive solids.

I get really pi$$ed having to spend 8-10hrs removing built up crap inside of cylinder block cooling jackets before machining counterbores, upper inserts or repairing head bolt threads. 3408-3412s with cavitation erosion caused block cracks; no fun welding up with N55.

ELC works as advertised and eliminates 'crap shoot' as to waters' chemical, biological make up etc.

 

[burns]

ambient air temp today was 40degc
removed 50w oil and replaced with cat tdto 30w,
cleaned radiator, with very little dust in it.
put to work pushing loose dirt within 0.5 hr engine was up to 100deg transmission 115 deg
put machine in neutral @ high idle in 10mins engine went to 85 transmission 100
when machine was at hi idle front radiator doors were open i put a ray temp gun on top tank and bottom tank, there was 100 deg top tank 88deg bottom
cooling fan pushes out threw the radiator hense why i took engine bay doors off
my transmission and engine temp raise together and fall together, im confused as to which is making the other one hot

 

[burns]

operator can work in the morning for 4 hrs and it just gradually creeps up, he cools it for 15 mins gets temp to 85 engine 100 trans once hot it takes half and hour to get back up to hi temps again of 105 engine 120 transmission

 

[Nige]

12 degrees difference between top tank and bottom tank is spot on what it should be. The thermostat should be controlling the temp around 88-90 so it will be fully open at 88 for the return coolant.

See post #58 on P3. Is the fan facing the right way..? And before you ask - reversing the fan will not make it suck air from the front and push it out the engine bay. But having a fan installed "backwards" can severely reduce the air flow through the radiator. Post a photo if you're not sure if it's installed correctly or not. It's another box to tick.

 

[farmerlund]

I don't Know about D8Ns but does it have the reversible style fan like older ones? If it does are all the blades facing the same direction? If some are pushing and some are pulling it will mess up your cooling.
If its a fixed style fan disregard last transmission. LOL

 

[kshansen]

See post #58 on P3. Is the fan facing the right way..? And before you ask - reversing the fan will not make it suck air from the front and push it out the engine bay. But having a fan installed "backwards" can severely reduce the air flow through the radiator. Post a photo if you're not sure if it's installed correctly or not. It's another box to tick.

That one brings back a memory! Had a guy who at the time was the "road mechanic" for the shop back when I was the new kid and he tried like hell to convince me and others that would work to reverse the flow of air for the winter!

To try to explain why to others over the years why it will not work I always used the analogy of the fan being a very short piece of all thread and the air was the nut. If you always turned the end of the all thread facing you clockwise no matter which end of the all thread faced you the nut always moved in the same direction!

As for the fan running backwards not moving enough air ask a pilot if he thinks a plane would fly with the wings facing the opposite way?

 

[burns]

Does this photo make sense

 

[Shimmy1]

Looks right to me. Engine turns CCW when viewed from the rear, the knife edge of the blade would be leading. We're running out of ideas, bud.

 

[epirbalex]

I think it is capacity of the cooling system . Every thing has been replaced , and the one thing is that it does not cool enough when not working to carry on . I have already said what a fella did here with a D4H after trying to sort this problem . He told me Goughs ,Caterpillar NZ agents , had a good look at what he had done . Another , all be it stop gap , windscreen washer motor and jets can be added to jet water through the radiator every now and then , if putting another radiator in front of the current one is not an option . Caterpillar would not have designed too much redundency into the system nor I doubt build it to be working nearly forty years later flat out .

 

[379Pete]

Tough to say without being there, sometimes it’s tough enough when you are there. From the sound of it, the T/C is putting a lot of heat into the cooling system. That tells me that the T/C is sending plenty of oil flow going to the cooler, not leaking to the scavenge pump. I’m pretty sure if the clearance between the impeller/stator/turbine are too wide it can cause a drastic loss of efficiency in the T/C, and extra heat. The O/P says the T/C was rebuilt, could be that parts were reused that shouldn’t have been. The radiator can do a good job of cooling the coolant, but just before it enters the engine it goes through that big ass transmission oil cooler. I’ve shot dozer transmission cases with my I/R in the Arizona afternoon after shift and seen 200F. Just an idea.

 

[burns]

yeah its tough one im going to get a friend with experience to give me a hand with a few different thoughts. t/c was a rebuild from tillys, one operator in qld says his machine wouldnt go past 90deg engine and 110 on trans its a long way off that. im only using a infa red gun im thinking i need to borrow correct temp guages to guage exact differences between coolers, radiators, oil pipes transmission and engine. whats really hard is this machine has done it since he bought it 18 months ago, and i havent got any past service history.

 

[StanRUS]

3406Bs temps @ 91.1-92.2C (196-198F) are normal with T-stat opening 90C (194F)

Tilly's family owned non-dealer; inquire if their T/C rebuild-exchange has a warranty.

If your friend has Cat 8T5300 injection timing meter, check inj timing also. Governor has wear parts that can cause heating issues.

Without machine's past service history can add to diagnostic challenges.

 

[burns]

one thing i did the other week was check timing just pin timing but it was correct not to say governor has issues

 

[John C.]

That photo shows a sandblast guard. What kind of tubes do you have in that radiator. Are they the big copper tubes that can unplug from the tanks? Or is it more like the older radiators with the small tubes?

 

[burns]

i not sure what you mean, they are on angles fine fins and to fit them you need tolift top tank up

 

[John C.]

I recall years ago a core they called a desert cooler that had big round copper tubes instead of the smaller tubes with the small strips of metal fins that always got bent over on fan side on the left side of the machine. There were fins on the large tubes but not nearly as many fins but it looked like lots of surface area for air to cross over on the front of the radiator. The only issue that I heard with those units was that you had to have a sand blast guard on the fan side to prevent the sand and debris from wearing through the tubes. The larger fins were also suppose to let debris go though the core without getting trapped. I saw one used in a landfill. It still packed up but with big stuff. It took a lot longer for the broken dry wall fibers to plug the thing up.

 

[StanRUS]

Mesabi (L&M Radiator) is in Western Australia with exchange radiators. Using individually replaceable cores like Cat.
http://www.mesabi.com.au/coolcats.html

 

[Queenslander]

t/c was a rebuild from tillys[/ QUOTE]

This statement is a little worrying and worthy of further investigation.

 

[StanRUS]

T/C rebuild from Tillys is waving a big red flag.