smoothoperator
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2007
- Messages
- 90
- Location
- North Dakota USA
- Occupation
- County and township maintenance and snow removal,
I don't know if this question has been asked before but...
I was wondering what type of cutting edge most operators prefer. I'm guessing that it might vary with what type of grading you normally do. Back in '81 when I started as a maintenance blade operator, we ran 16', 8' of hardened in the middle, and 4' of regular (cheap) edge on either end, 5/8 by 8". This was on old straight frame machines without moldboard tilt. In the mid 80's, we went to two pieces of hardened, Cat DH-2 or equivalent, still 5/8 by 8". This was our standard issue cutting edge for many years. We did try the Cat graderbit system with medium width bits for a short time, but it seemed like we were always fighting with roads that were short on gravel, but long on weeds and grass. Not a good combination. Those bit holders, and other brands, have been moved to our dozer attachments to help cut out washboards in summer, and shear off small hardpack snowdrifts in winter.
Another change that we made was the switch from curved edges to flat. I wanted to try a set, just to see what they were like. FOR ME, they seem to pick up windrows without as much spillage off the toe, and you can run the moldboard more upright, allowing trash to slide through without getting trapped. It took me a little while, but I got the other operators to try them, and now all of us use them. Some of the other reasons we like them- where the edge meets the road, a flat edge can be near vertical, which means that you are cutting with a relatively narrow piece of steel. Penetration is easier, and on very hard roads, you will have less wasted metal curling up in front of your edge, and ending up in someones tire. Burning a crown into a flat edge still happens, but it is not as noticeable as with curved edges. When you do want to torch them straight again, you throw away less metal.
We have tried edges with carbide bars embedded in the middle, and carbide blasted onto their faces. I can see where they would be alright if your gravel roads were high quality, and you didn't have to deal with dirt and weeds, but in some of our jobs, we have to work with some roads that only get bladed 2-4 times per year. So for now, our use of carbide edges is very limited.
I'm still learning every day, as we all should. These are some of my thoughts, and I know they won't be the answer to all operators, situations, or conditions. All we can do is our best with what we have to work with.
smoothoperator...most of the time anyway.
I was wondering what type of cutting edge most operators prefer. I'm guessing that it might vary with what type of grading you normally do. Back in '81 when I started as a maintenance blade operator, we ran 16', 8' of hardened in the middle, and 4' of regular (cheap) edge on either end, 5/8 by 8". This was on old straight frame machines without moldboard tilt. In the mid 80's, we went to two pieces of hardened, Cat DH-2 or equivalent, still 5/8 by 8". This was our standard issue cutting edge for many years. We did try the Cat graderbit system with medium width bits for a short time, but it seemed like we were always fighting with roads that were short on gravel, but long on weeds and grass. Not a good combination. Those bit holders, and other brands, have been moved to our dozer attachments to help cut out washboards in summer, and shear off small hardpack snowdrifts in winter.
Another change that we made was the switch from curved edges to flat. I wanted to try a set, just to see what they were like. FOR ME, they seem to pick up windrows without as much spillage off the toe, and you can run the moldboard more upright, allowing trash to slide through without getting trapped. It took me a little while, but I got the other operators to try them, and now all of us use them. Some of the other reasons we like them- where the edge meets the road, a flat edge can be near vertical, which means that you are cutting with a relatively narrow piece of steel. Penetration is easier, and on very hard roads, you will have less wasted metal curling up in front of your edge, and ending up in someones tire. Burning a crown into a flat edge still happens, but it is not as noticeable as with curved edges. When you do want to torch them straight again, you throw away less metal.
We have tried edges with carbide bars embedded in the middle, and carbide blasted onto their faces. I can see where they would be alright if your gravel roads were high quality, and you didn't have to deal with dirt and weeds, but in some of our jobs, we have to work with some roads that only get bladed 2-4 times per year. So for now, our use of carbide edges is very limited.
I'm still learning every day, as we all should. These are some of my thoughts, and I know they won't be the answer to all operators, situations, or conditions. All we can do is our best with what we have to work with.
smoothoperator...most of the time anyway.