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Cummins injection pump help

VoodooMojo

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Jan 18, 2012
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344
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Baltimore, East Coast USA
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Sr Technical Service Representative
Don't overlook 18nascar18's suggestion of moisture in the tank/fuel line being frozen.
I know from my years living in Wisconsin, Illinois and Indiana, the winters can bring havoc
to diesel starting.
Used to have to aim torpedo heaters at the fuel lines many times.

cummins fuel pump.JPG

It sounds like you will be in good hands with the SC pump guy...
 
Last edited:

kevinc1650

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Feb 17, 2012
Messages
24
Location
Jemison, AL
All of your cummins has either manual or electric pumps on them. Most are manual. If it's electric it will be in the fuel tank. Can you take a picture of the side of the motor that the injector is on and post it? I work of a big rental company and most of the equipment has cummins in them.
 

barklee

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Aug 4, 2009
Messages
903
Location
ohio
Sorry, i havent had the time to crawl up in there and clean that pump up to see the pump #s. I will try to do that this weekend and take some pictures...... If the wife lets me break free from operation kitchen painting!
 

barklee

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ohio
Here is a couple of pictures of the injection pump. I do not think there is a inline pump on this machine. There is no electrical going to the tank and there is nothing inline between the tank and the injection pump. I hope this helps figure out what to do next!
 

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thepumpguysc

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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
Voodoo's picture was correct. Zexel VE pump. Remove the outlet banjo-bolt on top of pump. It looks like thats the ONLY thing you can get a wrench on..lol
This unit requires "flow" to pump..inother words, if you cant get fuel OUT of the pump[clogged return bolt] you cant get fuel IN.
If the shut-off soleniod is bad, it will also prevent "flow" to the pump..IF you can, run a 12v jumper wire straight to the solenoid and listen for a CLICK, thats probably going to be easier than trying to remove it.
Have you tried filling the filters w/fuel inorder to prime the system?
If you do that and the fuel "disapears" then you know the pump is sucking the fuel. BUT, remove the outlet bolt first!
 

thepumpguysc

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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
I just pulled the parts breakdown and specs for your pump[104741-7062]
The lever on the side, doubles as your "start quantity adjustment" also your manual shut-off.
DO NOT TRY TO ADJUST IT!!
Pull it back afew times to see if anything is stuck..
 

barklee

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Aug 4, 2009
Messages
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Location
ohio
I pulled the banjo bolt on the top and it appears to me that that is the inlet side of the fuel?? The outlet seems to be the one with the plastic cap on it shown in voodoos picture. Anyways i blew them both out and no luck. Also messed with the manual shutoff and it was free moving.
The first thing i did when i had problems was to run a hot wire to the shut down solenoid. It is clicking when powered up. I briefly tried to pull the solenoid and it is a PITA! I didnt get that done, its getting too dark now.
 

thepumpguysc

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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
If the solenoid is clicking, chances are its good.
The outlet bolt IS the one w/the cap[top of the pump]
The INLET bolt is towards THE FRONT
 

barklee

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Aug 4, 2009
Messages
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Location
ohio
OK, so the inlet is the one (In my bottom pic) on the top left and the outlet is on the top right?
 

thepumpguysc

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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
CORRECT
THE OUTLET[RETURN] BOLT IS A RESTRICTED FITTING. It has a tiny little hole in it. Thats why I want you to remove it and pressurize the tank. it will allow you to force fuel thru the filter and pump, aslong as the solenoid is energised.
 

barklee

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Aug 4, 2009
Messages
903
Location
ohio
Ok, i get what your saying now. There is no banjo bolt on the top right fitting, its a barbed fitting the rubber hose slides over. I will try to pressurize this tomorrow. Thanks!
 

barklee

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903
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ohio
So i pulled off the outlet side of the injection pump, used a jumper wire to the stop solenoid and pressurized the fuel tank. There was no fuel coming out of the outlet of the pump. What does this mean?
 

thepumpguysc

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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
Not to be rude, but you DONT get what I'm saying. The BARBED FITTING is held into place by a BANJO BOLT[17mm] THAT IS the return fitting[17mm banjo bolt]
REMOVE the entire bolt, energize the solenoid, and pressurize the tank, wait till you get fuel spilling out the top of the pump[banjo bolt area/return]
Keep me posted.
 

barklee

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ohio
I really dont think i can get that outlet banjo bolt out the way this thing is shoe horned in there. Thats why i removed it from the hose barb. I was able (i think) to get about a quarter turn on it. As it is, i think the radiator will have to go to remove that or the whole pump.

Yes i am getting fuel to the filter when its pressurized. All the way to the inlet of the pump.
 

barklee

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ohio
Ok, so today we removed the outlet banjo bolt and connected a inline pump between the tank and filter. We have fuel from the tank to the outlet of the injection pump. Any ideas?
 

thepumpguysc

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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
Solenoid "jumped" and lines loosened at the injectors? and still no fuel squirting at the injectors?
Sound like the IP needs to come off.
Let me backtrack to a previous post to get the pump # and I may be able to assist you in the removal.
IF you have fuel in and fuel out and the solenoid is opperational, and the pumps not pumping, thats about all the diagnosis you can do.
 

thepumpguysc

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Acording to the pump breakdown, the drive shaft on the pump is keyed and is driven by a gear in the engine, so the pump will only go on 1 way. BUT the pump itself is bolted to the engine block "on slots" for fine tuneing timing. See Voodoo's picture..
Make a scratch mark on the pump and block OR trace the outline of the pump onto the block BEFORE removing any bolts!!
Your going to have to access the plate infront of the IP to remove the nut that holds the gear to the IP driveshaft.
IF you have some "white-out" mark the gears to oneanother incase the pump gear moves away from the drive gear.
The pump gear and pump driveshaft are "tapered" so you will need a puller. Normaly there are 2 or 3 threaded holes in the gear to aid the puller. Just remove the nut and washer, screw the nut back onto the driveshaft FLUSH with the driveshaft end[keeps from messing up the threads on the shaft when puller is screwed down] Install the puller and pop the gear off the shaft. DONT REMOVE THE GEAR, leave it in the engine. Send pump to pump guy for repair..lol
 

archibaldtuttle

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Joined
Apr 19, 2009
Messages
38
Location
Rhode Island
rebooting this old thread as i'm looking at a similar year snorkel with this same engine. I already have a B3.3 2006 in a snorkel and have had zero trouble but its relatively low hours for its age (1800). This unit I'm looking at has 5000 so i'm starting to think about common middle age problems. I don't see a lot of posts about problems but the injector pump seems to come up more than anything.

Similar aged Deutz ,which is another industrial engine snorkel(and JLG) used, Timing Belt is a common recommendation. Does the B3.3 have a chain? What is recommended interval?

This engine runs like a top, no issues. But just trying to see if there is anything I should do for its age. I also heard from a field mechanic that when I say Cummins they say starter. That's the kind of perrennial issue I don't mind as much from a cost and simplicity standpoint. And the very first thing I did with the other was to put a block heater and oil pan heater on it to baby the starter and engine in cold weather (got a great trick for grabbing a pipe tapping about midway up the jacket and putting a pipe tee in at the temp sensor tapping at the water pump and then using an 1500 watt external. works great.)

If I' reading @thepumpguysc correctly this is actually a Komatsu engine? Anything else stand out to anyone as common problems for these engines generally and esp. at medium hours e.g. 5 grand?

Thanks,
Brian
 
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