Cracked tranny and bearing replacement

[Delmer]

If the crack is big enough for oil to leak out, then the brake fluid will go through it, and warm JB weld will suck in a little way. MOST important, the oil won't come back out before the JB is in place.

I can't say how the factory drilled the original grease hole. To go at an angle you just need to get it started then it's easy. Use a cape chisel to raise a bur to give you some "footing" to get the drill bit started at an angle.

 

[kshansen]

The idea with the vacuum is that you get things as clean as possible before hand and have the JB Weld ready to mix up. Then connect the vacuum to, say, the filler neck and let it run. Then use the acetone/brake clean to wash off the weld area and it should suck some in through the cracks. Then while leaving the vacuum running mix up and apply the JB Weld, thinned or warmed to make it flow a bit better. Then let it set till the JB Weld cures all the while the vacuum keeps running. Let it run all night then the JB Weld should be cured. You could then put a second coat of JB on just to get a little more thickness.

Just a thought, if you have access to a small sand blaster you could hit the area around the welds a quick shot or two to give it a little better "bite". Just make sure everything else is covered up and protected from the sand and do this just before the final clean up while the vacuum is running.

 

[AllDodge]

Delmer and kshansen there is some good ideas, will give it a go. Will maybe grid a bit more to see it anything shows up and maybe make a spot where a bit might start. Don't have a vacuum pump for this tyoe work, only for AC work. Think if I connect a shop vac to the fill tube and maybe remove the vent pipe, this will be less air going through the vent hole, but enough to keep the vac cool enough for all night run, and still have some vacuum in the case.

 

[AllDodge]

Have received no response from JB Weld folks. Might have to try a phone call if nothing come back before Monday

 

[Hobbytime]

is it possible at all to drop the tranny pan?

 

[kshansen]

is it possible at all to drop the tranny pan?

Not familiar first hand with this machine but I don't think that is a separate pan but is actually the major housing for the transmission.

As for the vacuum, a shop vac is just what I was suggesting to use. hooked to the filler neck and if there is a separate breather some where reemove and plug the hole for that. Don't need a real strong vacuum just enough to create a negative pressure in side the transmission case, just to keep the oil from leaking out and suck in the brake clean a little and maybe encourage the JB Weld to work in there too!

ATT: Alldodge!!!

Did a search on my old emails and found the reply from JB Weld about thinning it:

From: Customer Service <info@jbweld.net>

You can use one teaspoon of lacquer thinner per two ounces of product.


Just note that they are saying lacquer thinner, and that stuff will melt plastic so don't use wife's good measuring spoons if they are plastic, if they a metal don't use them if she is around and wash them real good when done!

 

[DMiller]

:notworthy

 

[Delmer]

I would use your refrigeration vacuum pump, or a junk fridge or freezer compressor to save your good one. It won't develop much vacuum because the seals will leak in the tranny, but it should do the trick if you can seal up the openings enough. The shop vacs I have would burn up in ten minutes.

The other way to thin JBweld is to heat it up. Have the transmission case nice and warm, mix up the JB and let it sit for 20 minutes, then heat it up and spread it on. Or wait 30 minutes and spread it on the warm cast iron. The sitting time is so the stuff is ready to set up fast, instead of dripping off before it hardens.

 

[AllDodge]

Dang sure wish I could be notified of a post

Sure appreciate the input. Have not received anything from JB Weld products. I have it fairly clean but it still drips oil out of the pan it two spots, even though real slow. Was thinking of pouring about a quart of acetone in and see it drip/pour out. Don't think that little bit of acetone would do any harm. Maybe do it a few times to help clean out the pours

 

[kshansen]

Dang sure wish I could be notified of a post

Sure appreciate the input. Have not received anything from JB Weld products. I have it fairly clean but it still drips oil out of the pan it two spots, even though real slow. Was thinking of pouring about a quart of acetone in and see it drip/pour out. Don't think that little bit of acetone would do any harm. Maybe do it a few times to help clean out the pours

Just be careful with the acetone very flammable and small spark could set it off, just turning on the shop vac could be a problem.

Also note: if you elect to use a non-flammable brake cleaner to get the oil out be sure to read this first. Do not heat:

http://www.brewracingframes.com/safety-alert-brake-cleaner--phosgene-gas.html

 

[AllDodge]

Just noticed this, thanks.

I'm using the flammable stuff and its cleaning it up fairly well. Currently letting it continue to see if any more will leak out. Installed the old line back on after putting it in my press to straighten it out some. Has one spot where it was wearing a tad but think it will be OK (I hope). Plan to install the other line tomorrow.

Have the local welder coming out toward the end of the week to have a look at what needs to be done for the bushings. Have done some more grinding and still no signs of the grease hole

 

[AllDodge]

Had to do a lot of grinding and managed to find the grease holes. From what we can figure is the PO installed a piece of pipe on the bore and then the bearing, maybe just pipe. In any case there was never any chance the grease was going to make it.

Current plan is once the bearings come in, going to weld another pieces of pipe in it then weld the bearings in. Will drill some holes in the center to allow grease to pass. Will also use a 2 inch OD pipe long enough to go from one side to the other to keep them aligned.

 

[AllDodge]

Well to close this thread out.
Picked up a 2 inch OD bar (bushings are 2 ID) as discussed with Metalman, with the bushings also in the hole we could see how much needed to be filled. The welder made beads from one side to the other about 3/8 inch apart. Then a bit of grinding for correct positioning.



We left the bar flush with the outside edge of the bushing as it was welded in place. The bar kept the splatter out of the bushing and also acted as a heat sink. Once one was welded, we had to lightly hit the bar thu so it could be flush with the other outside bushing. The reason to hit a bit is it had gotten a bit tighter from the heat. After doing the other side and letting it cool, the bar came out with only our hands.

We used some old pins to install from the outside in to use the same way. Was easier then holding a 30 pound 4 foot bar. Should have taken more pics but its all back together and here is one of the weld jobs.



Used brake cleared and Acetone, never di use the vacuum because trying to figure out how to get it done. Applied on coat of JB Weld and next morning there were only two drips.



Second coat and no drips the next morning


This is after a 2 more coats for a total of 4


Now just need to get it moved back over to the farm to reinstall the bucket

 

[Metalman 55]

Well to close this thread out.
Picked up a 2 inch ID bar as discussed with Metalman, with the bushings also in the hole we could see how much needed to be filled. The welder made beads from one side to the other about 3/8 inch apart. Then a bit of grinding for correct positioning.

View attachment 160684

We left the bar flush with the outside edge of the bushing as it was welded in place. The bar kept the splatter out of the bushing and also acted as a heat sink. Once one was welded, we had to lightly hit the bar thu so it could be flush with the other outside bushing. The reason to hit a bit is it had gotten a bit tighter from the heat. After doing the other side and letting it cool, the bar came out with only our hands.

We used some old pins to install from the outside in to use the same way. Was easier then holding a 30 pound 4 foot bar. Should have taken more pics but its all back together and here is one of the weld jobs.

Now just need to get it moved back over to the farm to reinstall the bucket

Looks good All Dodge. Your bar is better than mine..........mine was about .080 smaller than the bushing ID's so had to do some guessing. It turned out ok though in the end.

Will you need to build on the bore on bucket pin bosses? I had to do mine.

 

[AllDodge]

Will you need to build on the bore on bucket pin bosses? I had to do mine.

My guess is your right about that. Will probably wait for another day. I hope since the bushings can now be greased that there will be less torque on the bolts until I can get the bucket fixed. It was bending and even breaking the grade 8 bolts

I'm still not being notified of any post. Just me checking to see if there was a response

 

[DMiller]

Very nice work, and less work than weld up align bore out.