CMI / bartmill PR 300 b parts help

[XxTrasHxX]

I'm repairing are mill and I am having problems finding parts for it any one have any idea were I can find a new or used drum or parts supplier?

 

[milling_drum]

Hey man, you might have to go directly to Terex/CMI and ask them for parts since manufactuering of those machines has stopped.

Drums can be bought from a number of different sources. Kennametal, Wirtgen, Shebeci and so on.

 

[Turtle]

Keystone Engineering can make you a new cutter drum. They are in Indiana.

 

[Toegrinder]

Keystone Engineering can make you a new cutter drum. They are in Indiana.

I personally would never recommend keystone. We have one on our W2000, and it has got to be the biggest piece of s*@t I have ever had. The pattern looks like hell, you have to use additional wear washers between the holder and tooth body, and even then they wear out far too quickly. But again, my opinion.

 

[Turtle]

Keystone Cutter Drums

I personally would never recommend keystone. We have one on our W2000, and it has got to be the biggest piece of s*@t I have ever had. The pattern looks like hell, you have to use additional wear washers between the holder and tooth body, and even then they wear out far too quickly. But again, my opinion.

It is unfortunate that you had a bad experience with a keystone cutter. We have had nothing but success. we have tried every drum oout there and none have come close to the durability and pattern that keystone provides. We get over 2000 hours on a set of holders and 4 changes before the pockets start to show wear. They best thing about them is that if you hit something you usually only lose some cutter bits. But if you do loose a holder, the pcoket is not damaged and it only takes 15 min to repalce. The washers they provide are not necessary, but they do help eliminate block wear since they don't rotate. We usually get 2 sets of bit changes per washer and we run a set without washers every 6 changes to restablish the seat. The system is a little more complicated than some because they use 4 different blocks depending on where the block is on the drum, but if maintained properly the pattern remains perfect. This has been our experience.

 

[milling_drum]

Some of the materials in the west are alot different then found out east. I can vouch for the fact that chipseal surfaces do a number on certain types of teeth while other teeth cut right through it like nothing....

Never liked Sanvik teeth or holders but they work very well in Texas and through the upper plains. Wirtgen and Kenametal teeth burned out quickly in surfaces that were an easy cut.

Flighting makes a big difference in how teeth wear as well.

 

[XxTrasHxX]

thanks for the info

 

[bean]

Ive had good luck with keystone drums we run 2 of them. Much better then old weld ons .

 

[roadtecrumbler]

Im siding with keystone on this one we run all keystone drums and coulgnt be happier with them we usually get between 1600 to 2000 hours out of a set of holders. Usually flip our paddles around half way thru the season. Our holders wear out quicker over in eastern ohio wear theres alot of river rock in the aggregate. We used to run acouple of sollami drums and were not to happy with them it seemed when you got in real hard conditions youd just snap the holder right in half it was a real pain on the end rings when this happened to get the rest of the remaining holder out of the pocket espically after working all night and having to mess with that in the morning that was no good. This is all just my opinion though would like to see what the match looks like on a ht11 wirtgen drum is anyone has sum pics to share.

 

[milling_drum]

River rock is some hard stone, I've had plenty of nasty times with it. Agreed about the Sollami drums. Don't like em at all. Keystone make a good drum as well.