Clark Michigan 55B

[kshansen]

After doing some research I'm pretty sure that cylinder isn't a cat part.

Mounting is completely different.
I took a couple pics of the front cylinder and it's identical to the rear.
Has FE 777 on it?
Not sure if that means anything.

I'm still gonna try and get the repair kit for my loader.
I pretty sure the cylinders are both Clark Michigan parts.

Well I can say from working on heavy equipment for forty years that while I never worked on a Terex with air over hydraulic brakes I did see those power clusters on many Hough Loaders and even Off-Highway 65 ton Mack trucks and even a few Cat loaders. As for being Clark Michigan parts the only way they are Clark Michigan parts if Clark bought them from Wagner and put Clark Michigan labels on the boxes!

Just do like I did and open up Google and type in just FE777 and hit enter and I bet one of the top three things you will see says:
Wagner Master Cylinder Part FE777 1.75 Inch Bore No Check Valve: FE777

 

[Welder Dave]

Wouldn't the GL or CL on the upper right of the OP's pic. identify who made it?

 

[homanfab]

Not sure where in Minnesota you are at but I have had good luck with Brake Equipment Warehouse in Minneapolis on some pretty old car stuff and I know I have seen heavy equipment parts in the machine shop.
https://brakeandequipment.com/

 

[chipped tooth]

After looking i found the FE777 very common.

And the Wagner repair kit is WAG-F8449

https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-Repair-WAG-F8449-Cylinder-Diameter/dp/B07LGGVM63

 

[chipped tooth]

Thanks everyone who has helped.

I'm gonna order 2 repair kits and I'll update how things go.

 

[kshansen]

Thanks everyone who has helped.

I'm gonna order 2 repair kits and I'll update how things go.

Just be sure to compare parts from original master to those in the kits. I believe there are some of those masters that have a "check valve" on side of them for some applications. I don't see one shown in the picture that is on the site you posted from E-bay.



Check valve would be the the item the arrow is pointing toward in the above picture.

 

[chipped tooth]

Yup, I noticed the 2 different kits.
The kit with check valve for FE777 is

WAG-F5350.

I'd say it's probably better to order the kit with the check valve just incase.

 

[kshansen]

To be honest I'm not recalling what the difference in applications that require the check valve as compared to those without the check valve!

My best suggestion would be to put in what you take out unless you can contact Wagner or dealer for factory information on the reason for them.

 

[chipped tooth]

I called powerbrake-drivetrain about the check valve.

Was absolutely no help.
All he wanted to do is sell me an new unit.

I might pull the front off and disassemble that since they are the same as far as I can tell.
Then I'll know if it has the check valve.

 

[DB2]

Check valve was used to hold residual pressure in the lines so as to provide a full stroke in drum brake applications. In this way the lines stayed full instead of all the fluid returning to the master cylinder. The valve was removed in clutch applications as it wasn’t desirable to keep the release bearing under pressure to prevent undue wear. I hope this makes sense.

 

[Flat Thunder Channel]

I'm partial to just taking it apart and heading to a local NAPA store. Sometimes if you are lucky the parts counter guy knows what he is talking about. As others have mentioned many master cylinders are common among manufacturers.

I ended up buying an aftermarket replacement automobile master cylinder for my older tractor. Turns out they were identical, but the automobile version was 1/3 the price of the tractor version. Prior to finding the aftermarket unit I was going to head into napa with the master cylinder guts and try to find a comparable piston seal kit. Best of luck!

 

[chipped tooth]

Had a chance to pull the back cylinder off today.

It definitely has the check valve.

The only thing I seen was the spring seal or cap is cracked.

Witch buts up against the piston end with the valve.
Everything else didn't look to bad.

I cleaned everything up and reinstalled it but it's exactly the same.

I took a video of the brake chamber rod coming out and you can tell the cylinder isn't holding pressure.
Working by myself I'm limited on my abilities to watch what is actually happening.

 

[Flat Thunder Channel]

I'd replace the seals since you already had it apart. Check the bore for damage. If the piston, seals and bore are intact it should pump fluid. I forget the details, but it could be leaking off slowly at any joint and or at a wheel cylinder.

 

[chipped tooth]

I'm sure the crack in the spring seal cap thing is probably the culprit.

I can't see anything else that would cause it to not hold pressure.

 

[kshansen]

If the crack you are referring to is what I'm seeing in the above picture the I would say it should be pretty obvious as the amount of fluid coming out would be leaving quite a puddle with each application!

 

[chipped tooth]

That pic is to show what I thought was the CAT part.
But you can see fe777 and C or 847 poorly but it's there.
No crack in the casting.
The crack is in the spring cap seal face.

Assembly order goes, rubber washer, check valve, spring, cap seal, piston then washer and clip.

The seal on the piston i believe is only there to keep fluid in.
I think the spring cap seal is what actually does the work.

At least looking at it from how the fluid is in the casting.

I ordered 2 kits so once they show up ill take better pictures of everything to post.

 

[kshansen]

Yes the seal on the piston is there to keep the fluid in the master cylinder.

The cup that is between the piston and the spring is the one that pushes the fluid out of the master to the wheel cylinder(s).

Now if you could get someone else to push and hold down on the brake while you watch through the filler cap hole in the reservoir you might be able to see the fluid moving in the master cylinder.

At the first application of the brakes you would probably see a short squirt of fluid coming out a hole that would be just in front of the cup then if the cylinder was working right that flow of fluid would stop. But if the cup is not sealing to the cylinder wall you would see a steady movement of the fluid till air chamber reached the end of it's stroke.

I tried finding a video on Youtube but all I find are for a much more complicated dual master cylinder and trying to watch thyem would probably cause more confusion!

 

[kshansen]

https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/attachments/950-brake-chamber-5k3663-png.225616/

 

[kshansen]

If you go back to post #14 and look at the second image for the 5K3663 cylinder it might help to understand how it works. Actually I posted a link just in the last message!

 

[chipped tooth]

Parts came in on Monday.
I finally had time to fix her today

Here are some pics