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Caterpillar D4D 83J01988 radiator

Discussion in 'Announcements' started by Hollyrock, Aug 22, 2016.

  1. Hollyrock

    Hollyrock Member

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    Aug 12, 2016
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    Location:
    Lanark Highlands, Ontario
    Hello

    Can anyone give me some advice on punching the tubes of a radiator on a Caterpillar D4D, 1971 83J01988? My differential temperature on the radiator is quite narrow.

    HR
     
  2. Rob Gunn

    Rob Gunn Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Buchanan, MI
    I plugged some fins on my 1947 D4 with JB Weld. Cleaned them up as best as I could, packed some cotton down into the fin about 1/2" (to act as a plug so the JB Weld would not just keep going), then poured in the JB Weld and let gravity help it flow down. Next day I flipped the unit over and did the same letting gravity help on the opposing fins. I did this about 5 years ago and its still holding.
     
  3. Delmer

    Delmer Senior Member

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    Are you sure the radiator isn't plugged up with dust on the air side? That's always the first thing to check if it's running hot, and especially since you say your temperature differential is narrow. Is that like 210 on the top and 200 on the bottom?

    If it really is plugged inside, then read this thread before you remove the radiator. I don't think he had to remove the radiator to clean that.

    https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showthread.php?61312-how-to-deep-clean-a-radiator
     
  4. kshansen

    kshansen Senior Member

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    Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
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    Maybe I'm not reading this one right. If the temperature drop(differential) across the core is "narrow" wouldn't that point more towards plugged on the outside than restricted on inside? Just thinking if the flow was restricted the coolant would take longer to go from top to bottom and have more time to shed heat. Now if the core was plugged on the outside there would be little air flow through the fins to draw the heat away.

    Guess which ever the problem is getting it clean both inside and out is what is important and sometimes the only way to be sure things are clean is to remove and dismantle.
     
  5. Delmer

    Delmer Senior Member

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    Ken, I'm with you, that sounds like the air isn't moving through fast enough. I think it was Nige who informed me that tubes can build up deposits on the inside enough to block the heat transfer more than the flow. I think that was substantially bigger engines than I've ever worked on.
     
  6. Hollyrock

    Hollyrock Member

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    Location:
    Lanark Highlands, Ontario
    You guys are right. One of my mistakes I make in life is over complicating problems, went home last night blew out the radiator with my air compressor then gently pressure washed it and now it runs as cool as a cucumber. Actually about 200 F and returned about 5 degrees cooler measure with my infared gun. Makes me happy!

    Bryan
     
  7. kshansen

    kshansen Senior Member

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    Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
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    Yes I did consider that too. If it has a nice even build up on the inside it could act like insulation and block the heat transfer. Guess if the outside is spotlessly clean and belts are good and the right fan is on engine next step would be a good internal cleaning. Believe the other thread had suggestions on ways to do that.

    Any chance a D4D would have a reversible fan? Had a machine many years back that was over heating and found one of say six blades was facing the wrong way.