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Caterpillar 950G-I problems x 3

Nige

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Good to hear you have a manual. Paper one or pdf it makes no difference.
There will be no info on Diagnostic Codes in SEBU7018.
However the Troubleshooting Procedure for any Code that is Active could be extremely useful to an auto-spark if you are bringing one in to work on the dash panel. He could kill two birds with one stone.
The quad gauge cluster and the Monitor System panel (message window) are two completely separate components. You don't need the quad gauge working to read the Diagnostic Codes. Caveat: an electronic defect in the quad gauge panel would most likely show up as a Diagnostic Code. However if you know that then you also know that fixing the quad gauge will fix the Code. If the coolant temp gauge sweeps correctly during the self-test I'm reasonably certain that the quad gauge assembly is most likely OK. Having replaced the sender then the only possible cause I can think of is a wiring or electrical connector fault.
 

kshansen

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Ill get onto that tomorrow, its the middle of the night over here now. Do you think I should have that panel/ gauge working then check the fault codes? I do have a hard copy of the Ops manual. SEBU7018-08 That might have the code info in it.
Im off for some shut eye now, thanks for your help, Ill keep you posted.

Oldboy,

I and I'm sure Nige and many others have the list of code information. Just checked and to print it out would take 414 pages as it covers just about anything Cat made that can throw an error code!

But if you can post the active codes on your machine one of us can check on SIS and point you in the right direction. I believe you already posted the S/N but to save someone time looking back for it include it in the post with the error codes.
 

Oldboy

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I have found a total of 12 fault codes. I was going to add all the photos below but limit is 4. So Ill list them here. Seems an awful lot I hope I got the technique right. And i hope I have not created too much work for you.
If its too much let me know and Ill see if I can find some help locally. thanks again.
096FO3
110FO8
819F02
631F13
633F13
081
635F13
030
632F13
634F13
636F13
672F02
IMG_0929.JPG IMG_0943.JPG IMG_0944.JPG IMG_0946.JPG

 

Nige

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A quick question. Does the SERV CODE icon light up for every one of the Codes listed above..?
A list like yours and the first thing I think of is "Harness/connector fault. Broken or damaged wires, or a connector issue. Maybe more than one."

Quick explanation of your list: -
096F03 - Fuel Gauge - signal voltage above range. (Gauge will read low)
110F08 - Engine coolant temp sensor - surprise, surprise. Procedure attached. The sensor is receiving no signal voltage.
819F02 - display module not receiving correct information. ***This should be your #1 priority - procedure attached. Another reason why you needed the Electrical Schematic - to locate all the connectors related to the Monitor System Data Link.
631F13 - Transmission Solenoid #1 (Reverse)
633F13 - Transmission Solenoid #3 (4th speed)
635F14 - Transmission Solenoid #5 (2nd speed)
632F13 - Transmission Solenoid #2 (Forward)
634F13 - Transmission Solenoid #4 (3rd speed)
636F13 - Transmission Solenoid #6 (1st speed)
627F02 - Parking brake pressure sensor.

All the "F13" Codes mean that the clutch solenoid requires calibration. It looks like the complete transmission needs a calibration run on it. I need to check up on the procedure for that but I am certain that it will require at least a Click Box. Having all those F13's will not stop the transmission from working. I may be off-base here but I think that possibly at some time the powertrain ECM may have been replaced (new one would have had no calibration data in it) and the clutches were never calibrated after that.

Looks like your auto-spark will have plenty of work to do ..........
 

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Oldboy

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Just a quick one Nige, could any of those transmission codes be related to the changed transmission controller ( gear lever and associated electrics). This replacement had the effect of correcting the non selection of gears, change over done a couple of weeks ago.
Ill do some more work on it today and see where we are.
thank you
 

Oldboy

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Okay. Re your earlier question, I sent you the codes that had the SERV CODE noted. There were lots of others that did not have SC noted, obviously cleared. Is there a way to clear these current codes without the use of an ET type unit?
 

kshansen

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Okay. Re your earlier question, I sent you the codes that had the SERV CODE noted. There were lots of others that did not have SC noted, obviously cleared. Is there a way to clear these current codes without the use of an ET type unit?

Not Nige here but if they are active "Serv Code" not sure what would be gained by clearing them. As soon as you start machine or even turn on the key they would be right back. Unless I'm missing what you are asking.

In other words if say a code is being set due to a dead short in the harness and you were able to clear it as soon as you powered up the machine the code would be there for the dead short.

If you were to repair the dead short but not clear the code the code would still show but the "SERVCODE" warning would not show. This would let you now the problem has been repaired so now you could clear the code and not see it again.

As to clearing code without Cat ET I have to be honest I've been away from working too long to remember if that was possible on your machine or any others. I'm sure Nige will stop by latter or in the morning with the answer.
 
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Oldboy

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Thanks KSHannsen, what I was thinking is if we clean up some connections or make other changes, then clear the codes and see which ones come back, to determine if we have made any progress. But Im not sure if we need extra equipment to clear them.
 

Nige

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Good morning all. To clarify, you can't clear Active Codes. which is what the SERV CODE icon is referring to.
If SERV CODE is lit when a particular Code is displayed in the window you have to first fix the problem that caused that Code to be displayed. At that time the Code becomes Logged meaning it was there once but is not there now.
A Logged Code can be cleared, so all the long list of Codes the OP apparently has can be significantly shortened by clearing all the Logged Codes, thus leaving the list of 10 Active Codes in Post #24 above.

What he proposes makes perfect sense, and it can be done with nothing more than 2 pieces of 18SWG automotive cable about 6" long and 3 Deustch connector sockets, although the last items are somewhat optional. They do make the process far easier though.
The machine connector looks like the one in the photo. The two gold pins next to it are typical of the pins you'll find inside it. The mating sockets to those pins are like the one shown installed on the twisted end of the wire. Using them makes it easier to connect the wires.
Strip both ends of the two pieces of wire. Twist one end of piece together to form what looks like a chicken wishbone common at one end and with two separate ends at the other. Crimp a Deutsch female connector pin to each of the bare ends. I would make the wires longer than shown in the photo. I just knocked that up to illustrate what the assembly looks like.
upload_2019-7-25_6-53-18.png
 
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Nige

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First you need to refer to the Click Box thread, because your two pieces of wire are going to be used as a McGiver'd replacement for the Click Box. Your attention is specifically drawn to the diagram in post #16 on Page 1 where I tried to explain how the Click Box interacts with the machine electrical system. Forget the Click Box part for now and concentrate on the wiring between the "Caterpillar Monitor System" and the "Monitor Service Connector" (MSC), a 4 pin Deustch connector with male pins in it.....
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/the-famous-cat-click-box.72956/

This is what you do: -
1. To access the system in order to clear the Logged ones the Monitor Panel has to be put into Service Mode, so we're trying to duplicate the Click Box procedure of grounding both the Scroll and the Clear contacts of the Monitor System at the same time. This is what the Mode switch does if you look at the wiring diagram.
2. Connect one of the separate ends of the cable to Pin #1 (wire #290) of the MSC, and connect the other one to Pin #2 (wire #291) of the MSC. (The connector pin numbers are stamped on the back of it. I always use the Wire Numbers though, just to be sure.)
3. Turn the key on and let the panel do the self-test. Connect the common end of the wire assembly to Pin #4 (wire #200) of the MSC. The display panel should show -0- which will then change every couple of seconds to -1-, -2-, etc.
4. When the display shows -3- remove the wire from Pin #4. The -3- should disappear and the first of the list of Diagnostic Codes should appear. Be aware that every Code is displayed in two steps. The first is the module recording the Code (e.g. 030 or 113), the second is the Code itself (096F03, 248F01, etc.), so even though the display will change to show one after the other on an endless loop it's all really one Code that you are seeing.
5. If the first displayed Code is Logged, you can clear it - go to the next Step. If it is Active you will have to Scroll to the next Code on the list - go to Step 7.
6. Remove the wire from Pin #1 of the MSC, leaving only the wire connected to Pin # 2. Then touch the common end (that you previously removed from Pin #4) briefly back to Pin #4 which will ground the Clear connector of the MSC. The Code should disappear and when it does it should be replaced by the next Code on the list. Continue clearing until a message END or three dashes --- appears. This indicates that you have reached the end of the list of Codes in the Monitor.
7. To Scroll to the next Code in the event of coming across a Code that is Active, remove the wire from Pin #2. Connect a single end of your wire assembly to Pin #1. Briefly touch the common end of the wire assembly to Pin #4. The current displayed Code should scroll to the next Code in the list. Be careful, if two consecutive Codes are the same module (e.g. 030) you might think it hasn't scrolled. Give the new Code a couple of seconds to display completely before deciding whether it has scrolled to the next Code or not.
8. To summarize. If you clear a Logged Code the next Code on the list will automatically appear. If the next Code is Active you will need to Scroll the list in order to get to the next Logged Code.
9. There is nothing at all to stop you going through the Code list twice or even a dozen times if the mood takes you.
10. Once you finish clearing Codes the Monitor has to be put back to the Operating Mode again. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 above but obviously forget the first bit because your power is already on. The display will start at -3- and go upwards through each Mode in turn. I'm not sure how many Modes your particular Monitor has, it may be as many as 10, but no problem. Keep at it until it shows -0- again remove the wire from Pin #4 and you're done. The display should then return to the normal Operating Mode that you had before you started. Remove your wire assembly and put it somewhere safe. You are going to need it again once you've done some electrical repairs.
 
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Oldboy

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Plant mechanic finally here tomorrow. ill let you know how it goes,
 

Oldboy

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We have finally got this old girl sorted out. All fault codes cleared and shes running well. The final steps required a new torque converter out-put sensor, which then allowed us to access the transmission codes (all 6 pressure sensors where out of whack, it appears there was a new transmission ECU fitted some 500 hours earlier but not synced with the system). All reset and going.
The brake pressure light and park brake light / warnings came back on too. We had a worn out brake valve. Replaced and all sorted. thanks to everyone for your help. Cheers Michael.
 

kshansen

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Kind of sucks when you have to come to a problem someone has done half a job on and not finished the fine details.
 
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