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Doesn't it just fry your ass that something so small could stop your machine from operating AND costs $1040??!!!
It’s absolute robbery, there is no way that sensor could in any way be worth that much. I was down for 3 hours, and had to drive into town to get the sensor, it’s a good thing I opened the package when I got it, there was no o-ring in the package at all. Probably charged me an extra $10 for a stupid oring when I mentioned it to the parts guy. I wasn’t allowed to go into the building because I never had a face mask so I called and made them bring it to me, if I’m going to get bent over I may as well get courted first.Doesn't it just fry your ass that something so small could stop your machine from operating AND costs $1040??!!!
We have a steel mill here and they don’t like it. Not even worth the time and effort to take it in. $20 a ton. Lol it was cheaper for me to dig a hole and get rid of it then it was for him to drive it all the way into the city.Scrappers here are LIKING Fence wire, High Tensile!!
If as you mentioned earlier when you wiggle the pigtail between the connector and the ballast (the silver tube) then maybe you have a soldered joint somewhere that is giving up. It may well be fixable quite simply.I’m taking the old one in to a farm electronics shop that rebuilds sensors switches and everything and I’m going to see if they can figure out what makes it tick and rebuild it. Then I’ll keep it as a spare if they figure it out.
Hold the Serivce and Clear switches over together until the Mode shows "-3-" then release.After I replaced the sensor the machine ran flawless no codes. I forget how to clear the service codes with the switches under the right console. Anyone care to refresh my memory? I can’t remember what page I was told before.
Hold the Serivce and Clear switches over together until the Mode shows "-3-" then release.
Each press of the service switch will scroll from one Diagnostic Code to the next.
Each press of the clear switch will erase a Logged Code.
When you're done press both switches together again until the Mode shows "-0-" and release. that will put you back in operational mode.
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Are you talking about this switch.? The Operator Manual lists it as being for the ether start aid.
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Are there any ether lines hooked up to the air inlet manifold.?
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According to the schematic the air inlet heater wiring is not connected to anything. Look for "CONN 19" you will see that there is nothing connected to the "business side" of it. It must have been an attachment for another model. This is borne out by what the Operator Manual says when talking about the Monitoring System Panel indicators.
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Again, have a look to see if there is any ether tubing connected (or signs of it having been connected) to the inlet manifold between the turbo and the engine.
This is for machine 3RZ00297, correct..?
If you need improved low ambient temperature starting capability then I suggest you should pursue the ether system and find out if it's working.the machine has the yellow bottle of ether on the firewall, with the tubing running to the engine, unsure if it is actually plumbed into anything I never thought about it.
Ether is fine if used properly and doesn't drain the batteries like glow plugs or intake heaters. Cat factory systems inject a measured amount of ether and won't allow it if the engine is warm. The shop that did my engine lost the electrical connector that went near the water pump. It was temp. switch that wouldn't allow the ether system to work when the coolant was warm.