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Cat 988B heating issue
- Thread starter ajginger
- Start date
Could I ask you to tell me which way this screen goes back into the housing on the transmission ?Should it sit this way up inside the housing or the other way around ?
When I pulled it out in a hurry as there was oil running back down my arm & I didnt take notice.
Nige
Senior Member
If that fuzz has accumulated in 650 hours it doesn't appear to be anything worth worrying about.
Below is an illustration of a magnetic screen from a different model of machine, but it shows the correct orientation of the screen/magnet assembly with reference to the cover plate #1. Just imagine the whole thing rotated 90 degrees anti-clockwise and it is somewhat similar to your installation. #2 is the wave washer that keeps the whole shooting match pushed up against the suction tube, #3 the screen, & #4 the magnet tube assembly.
Below is an illustration of a magnetic screen from a different model of machine, but it shows the correct orientation of the screen/magnet assembly with reference to the cover plate #1. Just imagine the whole thing rotated 90 degrees anti-clockwise and it is somewhat similar to your installation. #2 is the wave washer that keeps the whole shooting match pushed up against the suction tube, #3 the screen, & #4 the magnet tube assembly.
Nige
Senior Member
Regarding the larger pieces you found on the outside. This is logical, the oil flows from the outside of the screen to the inside then up the suction tube (on the RH side of the the above illustration). The "fuzz" will pass through the screen and be picked up by the magnets. The larger particles will not and (generally speaking) remain stuck to the outside of the screen due to the attraction of the magnets inside the assembly.
Thanks Cmark.
It is stamped " Assemble this end in " on the outer sceen at the end that you place the inner magnet holder inside.
I didnt know if the stamped words were in reference to the assembly of the screen/magnet holder or in reference to placing the whole thing into the screen housing on the tractor.
Thanks again Nige.
That makes sense now......I was reading a downloaded service manuel that said that the oil was pushed through the inside of the screen so the magnets vvould pick up any bits of metal.
That manual must be for another machine.
Thanks for the diagram......If I am reading it right I should place the screen in the
housing on the tractor ' magnet entry end up '. ( as it sits on the bench in photo )
By the way what are your thoughts on the bits of fibre/gasket and the small, thin slice of yellow o-ring ?...... are there any of these that would worry you ?
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Nige
Senior Member
I wouldn't necessarily worry about them right now. TBH with your heating problem you don't need anything else at this time to deflect your focus from solving that.
Keep the bits of gasket/seal on the back burner for now. Maybe at some time in the future the subject might get revisited if you get into transmission pressure testing.
A thought struck me regarding your heating issue. Obviously getting a working converter temperature guage in the machine is absolutely essential, but I'm thinking you should also have a working VCTC system as well. Now with a broken switch and missing idiot light on the panel that's not going to happen tomorrow but it ought to be moved up your list of priorities to a point right behind "get a working converter outlet temp gauge fitted".........
Nige
Senior Member
Install the magnet tube/screen assembly as follows: -
1. Install the plain (non-rolled end) of the magnet tube into the end of the screen marked "Assemble This End In".
2. Install the compete assembly into the housing on the machine with the lettered end to the inside of the housing (upwards in your case).
3. Install the wave washer and the cover.
1. Install the plain (non-rolled end) of the magnet tube into the end of the screen marked "Assemble This End In".
2. Install the compete assembly into the housing on the machine with the lettered end to the inside of the housing (upwards in your case).
3. Install the wave washer and the cover.
Yes I agree..... I have ordered and paid for the broken guages and also the green light bulb and lense for the dash. The old owner has the solenoid and other bits to get the switch on the lever going again. ( he bought the bits when he bought the machine but never got round to fixing it )
kshansen
Senior Member
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I probably missed but tried reading back through the whole thread twice, did we get a serial number for this machine in this thread?
Not trying to panic any one here!
Reason I ask is I recall we had to do upgrades our 988B torque converters. Checking in SIS it looks like the ones we upgraded were S/N 50W3100 and below.
Does anyone have access to SMAU2382 I believe that is the Service Magazine that tells about the up grade to the impeller and related parts.
One of the things was the converter was upgraded to 9 bolts from the previous 6 bolts. But making that change requires three somewhat major parts and not to mention those normally used to rebuilt the converter!
Not saying this is need, actually may have already been done on a machine of this vintage. But in our application it was almost a given that it would be needed when the converter was in for repair during a transmission rebuild.
Not trying to panic any one here!
Reason I ask is I recall we had to do upgrades our 988B torque converters. Checking in SIS it looks like the ones we upgraded were S/N 50W3100 and below.
Does anyone have access to SMAU2382 I believe that is the Service Magazine that tells about the up grade to the impeller and related parts.
One of the things was the converter was upgraded to 9 bolts from the previous 6 bolts. But making that change requires three somewhat major parts and not to mention those normally used to rebuilt the converter!
Not saying this is need, actually may have already been done on a machine of this vintage. But in our application it was almost a given that it would be needed when the converter was in for repair during a transmission rebuild.
Nige
Senior Member
S/N I have is 50W03844. Not sure where it was posted.
I’ll have a look at the SMAG later.
EDIT: Here is the SMAG. Unfortunately it does not contain any information regarding Serial Number effectivity. The OP's machine was built in April 1979 so the chances are it was in the machines that should have been upgraded. Saying that does not mean that it was not upgraded at some time in the past though.
I’ll have a look at the SMAG later.
EDIT: Here is the SMAG. Unfortunately it does not contain any information regarding Serial Number effectivity. The OP's machine was built in April 1979 so the chances are it was in the machines that should have been upgraded. Saying that does not mean that it was not upgraded at some time in the past though.
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That is the correct serial number ( 50W03844 ) .
When I was washing it down with the high pressure water, I noticed the remains of an old red sticker stuck to the ' on side ' of the transmission housing. Cant see any words written on the bits that are left, but its about 3 inches wide × 6 inches long .
It gives me the idea that at some point this machine has had the transmission out for rebuild/repairs by someone other than CAT because, correct me if I am wrong, but as far as I know CAT don't use a red color in any of their stickers.
Nige
Senior Member
I think you're probably right, unless it was a Cat dealer sticker that was something like "reconditioned by Gough & Gilmour".
It would need input from our Australian members to confirm. Post a photo, somebody might recognize it.
Otherwise i think your assumption that it was a non-Cat rebuild is most likely correct.
That still doesn't help with any confirmation regarding the converter upgrade though.
It would need input from our Australian members to confirm. Post a photo, somebody might recognize it.
Otherwise i think your assumption that it was a non-Cat rebuild is most likely correct.
That still doesn't help with any confirmation regarding the converter upgrade though.
DB2
Senior Member
After reading this entire thread it seems as though the problem developed after the machine sat for an extended period of time. Did it have plain water in the cooling system during that interlude?
Anybody suspect the trans cooler?
Just thinking out loud here.
Lots of good information here nonetheless.
Anybody suspect the trans cooler?
Just thinking out loud here.
Lots of good information here nonetheless.
I have thought about the trans oil cooler......and will investigate it if the other options dont pan out. I havent been able to drive it since changing out the thermostats becuase of a badly leaking lift ram that I have lined up to fix as soon as the seal kits get here.
The system was full of caterpiller coolant while it sat and the inside of the thermostat housings were in mint condition ( no corrosion what so ever ) so I am hoping the oil coolers are good inside as well.
Nige
Senior Member
Out of interest what colour was the coolant that was in thre system when it was parked.?
Your supposition is most likely correct that if the inside of the thermostat housings were in mint condition when you disassembled that area the rest of the internals of the cooling system are more than likely to be the same.
The coolant was a pink / red color but not bright......it had a diluted look to it. The previous owner said he ran cat coolant as that was what the owner before him ran in it.
Nige
Senior Member
If it was full strength Cat Coolant it would be bright red and totally transparent (not cloudy).
The thing is that you don't need full-strength coolant in your climate to protect from freezing because that never happens. The protection is required against corrosion & boiling issues. It's digressing a bit but there is a product available now from Cat callled Extended Life Inhibitor (as opposed to the more common Extended Life Coolant) that contains the chemical package necessary to provide protection against corrosion & boiling but does not contain glycol for anti-freeze protection. https://www.cat.com/en_US/campaigns/awareness/cat-fluids/coolants.html
The thing is that you don't need full-strength coolant in your climate to protect from freezing because that never happens. The protection is required against corrosion & boiling issues. It's digressing a bit but there is a product available now from Cat callled Extended Life Inhibitor (as opposed to the more common Extended Life Coolant) that contains the chemical package necessary to provide protection against corrosion & boiling but does not contain glycol for anti-freeze protection. https://www.cat.com/en_US/campaigns/awareness/cat-fluids/coolants.html