Nige
Senior Member
That’s strange. I have an account with a Cat dealer in the US and it shows both price & availability for both part numbers of stop - LH & RH. The prices make you wince though....
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Cat 977L
- Thread starter ChrisUK
- Start date
Out of interest Nige, what is the price and availability for these ? I approached dealer here and none were shown
I think I can get these finished off for not much more than my time and obviously cost of the 80mm plate. Chris
I think I can get these finished off for not much more than my time and obviously cost of the 80mm plate. Chris
Nige
Senior Member
They were priced at $642 ea. IIRC. So a full set of four would’ve been close to £2000....... 
I pretty sure that you ought to be able to fab them for a lot less than that.
I pretty sure that you ought to be able to fab them for a lot less than that.
Also exhaust has had a makeover complete with rain flap
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Cat977
Senior Member
You're doing some first rate work on that machine Chris! There's no covering up the jealousy anymore.
The bolts for the spring stops look to be grade 5. In this place I would want to buy Cat bolts that are spec. as the same as the original bolts you took out, but of course longer. The Cat parts guy may not know about spec. for application. I've heard Cat bolts are all better than grade 8 with a taller head and heard that's not true. There are better than a grade 8 bolts. I think a B8 stud might be a good choice since the treads in the frame aren't 100%. Shear strength is very important in this application. You should torque the bolt or nut properly also.
Best of Luck
The bolts for the spring stops look to be grade 5. In this place I would want to buy Cat bolts that are spec. as the same as the original bolts you took out, but of course longer. The Cat parts guy may not know about spec. for application. I've heard Cat bolts are all better than grade 8 with a taller head and heard that's not true. There are better than a grade 8 bolts. I think a B8 stud might be a good choice since the treads in the frame aren't 100%. Shear strength is very important in this application. You should torque the bolt or nut properly also.
Best of Luck
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Cat977
Senior Member
Nice looking work Chris! A real good score on the bucket! Don't bother wire brushing or painting where the bucket has dirt rubbing by a lot. It'll get polished up just fine by working the dirt. On my 977L also has a 4in1 the dirt has worn down the sides that go down to the bottom of the bucket and teeth. I might be doing some reinforcing one of these days.
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This looks like fun, was having a crawl round underneath and spotted some missing bits !
Any tips most welcome, these are the big bolts that attach the track frame to the main body underneath, I think they are 1-1/8 UNC.
Chris
Any tips most welcome, these are the big bolts that attach the track frame to the main body underneath, I think they are 1-1/8 UNC.
Chris
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Cat977
Senior Member
Looks like (maybe) track frame connection bolts. If so you may haft to block up the body. But then if you could do one or two at a time maybe not. Start spraying them with penetrating oil every few days. Heat the bolt head a few times before trying to unscrew. You don't say where you're pointing the camera. Definitely looking at some fun Chris!
Shawn
Shawn
Cat977
Senior Member
To get the bolt out that's broken off flush. Try drilling the threads out of a 1" nut. Then run a counter sink in about half way weld a rod to it to hold it.. If you can get an Extractalloy rod weld like you welding the nut on, stop at the chamfer let it cool, wack it a bit and the nut falls off. Then weld the nut on good, and let cool, more penetrating oil. Use a breaker bar and 3 pound hammer and wrap it gently back and forth. Work it free then drink some Beer!
Scrape the frame flat where the washers go. Buy the cat bolts and washers. If you must use extra thick grade 8 Sae washers and bolts and lots of Neverseize or grease for rust prevention. Free all the bolts then replace and go one at a time on the Neverseize.
Best of Luck!
Scrape the frame flat where the washers go. Buy the cat bolts and washers. If you must use extra thick grade 8 Sae washers and bolts and lots of Neverseize or grease for rust prevention. Free all the bolts then replace and go one at a time on the Neverseize.
Best of Luck!
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Cat977
Senior Member
Try using horse shoe shaped welding rods to the a joining bolt heads to hold the 1" nut in place. This way you can bang the nut in place and don't have to hold it. You may have to try several times but driving the heat into the stud will help loosen it.
Cat977
Senior Member
I was thinking of your bolt removal challenge. The number 1 priority is Don’t Break the Head Off. Impact guns work the best sometimes, because they use a lot of little hits. Of course definitely once it's free to spin it out. If you use too big an impact gun with the power turned up too high you can twist the head off before you know it. I like a Big Gun and turning it way down gives you a better feel for what you are doing. It has less hits but they are more powerful. Don' just back out, drive in to. The idea is to break the bolt free. Also taking a 3 pound or bigger hammer wack straight in on the head to break the rust free under the head. If you can get a hammer breaker wrench in there it may break it free. Beware most have a 12 point, and you don't want to screw up the bolt head, use 6 point sockets. Get the handle of your wrench as close to the frame/bolt head as possible. Use a 3/4" or 1" set it has less play and less flex. Cut off the end of a deep well socket to get it in tight. Weld the socket to bar stock and take out any looseness or flexing. Make it heavy to match that Big F**king Hammer!
Luck will set you Free!
Luck will set you Free!
DMiller
Senior Member
Commonly referred as "Rain Rattles" around here!!
A few more bits replaced. The coupling between the turbo and exhaust bend was leaking badly and must have been like that for many years as it had been spinning round in the turbo and bend housing and worn them away. Also every time the throttle was opened more smoke came from there than the exhaust.
Air filter housing going back on too after elements replaced. Slowly getting bits done !
Air filter housing going back on too after elements replaced. Slowly getting bits done !
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Nige
Senior Member
Shiny parts are always nice.......
I hope you had the safety engaged while work was going on. Don't depend on the lift cylinders to hold the arms & bucket up.
I hope you had the safety engaged while work was going on. Don't depend on the lift cylinders to hold the arms & bucket up.
Hi Nige, yes loader frame has been propped using the supports I made. It didn’t come with one so I made a pair myself, cheers Chris.
