Cat 951C loader with broken track tensioin springs.

[Railman10579]

I have a 951C bucket loader that I recently purchased. The bottom was done not that many hours ago but that was 12 years ago. I took the covers off to paint but found the track tension springs broken on both sides. There is no chain master link to unbolt. I think I would like to replace these springs but really don't feel cracking the chains. Looking at it, it seems I may be able to used the bucket and a block of wood to push the idler back and compress the spring and remove the keeper. Then split the shaft where the grease fitting is and take the spring out. Or I could leave it and run it as is because the track is adjusted for slack. Thoughts?

 

[Nige]

Search this forum using the keywords "Death Spring"...……
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/death-spring-removal.75004/
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...955l-track-tensioner-spring-compressor.53035/

Either way you are going to have to split the track to get the idler & recoil assembly out to disassemble it. the track will have a master pin that can be driven out. The trick is in finding it.

 

[workshoprat92]

The springs are already broke so I would go ahead and torch them up in place right off the bat. Once they are all cut and no tension is present your now in the safe zone. You may be able to get it all out with the track still on. If I remeber correctly you have to split the track to be able to get the front idler forward far enough to disengage it all from the tensioner. Id about garuntee the there is far more to repair than just the springs. Pay real attention to the sliders that keep the tensioner cylinder and pistion in place. Its damn rare to see that in good condition.

Glad to see my thread on the spring compressor is still out there!

 

[Tags]

Isn't it possible to collapse the idler and "walk" the track off of the idler if you are applying a little side tension with a chain hooked to the track and another machine pulling on it? I'd imagine you would need to block up the machine to do this, but if not properly equipped to drive out the main track pin would it be easier?

 

[workshoprat92]

Isn't it possible to collapse the idler and "walk" the track off of the idler if you are applying a little side tension with a chain hooked to the track and another machine pulling on it? I'd imagine you would need to block up the machine to do this, but if not properly equipped to drive out the main track pin would it be easier?

Im not gona say ya cant because i have been able to do many things other people say ya cant do on your own like compress my own track springs. Now the question as to weither it would be esier or not I do not know the answer to. In my opinion and keep in mind thats all it is is just an opinion I think that it would not be esier! I think you would find it would be a huge fight with very heavy stuff that your gona work your guts off to get it done. By the time your done you may just wish you had paid someone who has the tools portable to come ut and press the pin out or if you have the skills get in the manual and see what kind of tool it takes and what kind of force and design and build your own tool like I did on my spring compressor. Do some searches on you tube and see if there are any videos on how other people are doing it.

 

[Welder Dave]

I wonder if you could get the track loose enough to get it off and then take it to a track shop to press the master link out in their track press? If they had a portable track press would be even better. They could come to you to do it.

 

[Railman10579]

The sliders have heavy rust pits but are generally in fair condition. The springs still have tension and I can adjust the tracks to spec so I just might leave it for now. I was hoping the bucket might have enough force to shove the idler into the spring so the sliders can be installed with the tracks still on. Maybe nose into a tree and drive the idler back. If that's not the case and I need major tools then it's time to defer. The spring pockets are 7.5" x 24". Next thing, it's time to drop the belly pan and change out the flex coupler discs. $77 each from HO Penn. The springs are on eBay for around $600 for the pair.

 

[Nige]

TBH I wouldn’t be running it with broken recoils springs if it was mine, but it isn’t.

The tracks will have a master pin that can be beaten out using an FBH, finding the correct pin shouldn’t be hard, it’s the only one with a dimple on both ends of the pin.

Offroad Equipment usually have good prices for aftermarket parts - www.offroadeq.com

 

[ih100]

You can get tracks off without splitting them, the buggers usually jump off in the most awkward places.

As Nige says, the pin with two dimples is the master, but on a machine that age you’ll be lucky to flog it out without heat. All these ideas of short-cutting by leaving the track on, or taking it off unbroken, often lead to more damage or injury than doing the job right.

 

[Railman10579]

Just returned from HO Penn. They're getting me a quote. They have the equipment like the pin extractor and the spring compressor. In the mean time, with the tracks adjusted, I should be ready to put it back to work. It will take a few months to budget for this repair.

 

[tctractors]

The Drive Pucks can be changed from the top easy, try lifting the loader frame up to the top and fit in the safety strut, the recoil can be removed with the track still coupled if you know what you are doing without any drama. tctractors

 

[ih100]

How, Tony? Genuine question. Might help me in future.

 

[Railman10579]

Just got the pucks from HO PENN and got a new safety strut from my local welding shop and she's a beauty. The pucks look easy enough to change from the top. I don't feel like dropping the pan even though it's full of oily dirt. I'll clean out what I can. I got the recoil spring removal procedure and diagrams from Penn and yes it can definitely be removed without cracking the tracks but I don't think it will go back. There is a local Heavy Equipment mobile repair guy that has a 100 and 150 ton pin press and was thinking if worst comes to worst I can have him crack the track and then put them right back together again. I'll have Penn squeeze the spring. But there is only 3 coils broken on each side and the tracks are adjusted. I think I'll run it for a while the way it is. Just spent 3 days washing, sanding and painting the beast with $5 gallons of dented cans of Rustoleum Professional safety yellow with 2 Oz of bright red added per gallon. Makes a nice tractor color. Used an airless sprayer. "Photos on FB under Caterpillar Equipment Only (New and Old)"

 

[Railman10579]

TBH I wouldn’t be running it with broken recoils springs if it was mine, but it isn’t.

The tracks will have a master pin that can be beaten out using an FBH, finding the correct pin shouldn’t be hard, it’s the only one with a dimple on both ends of the pin.

Offroad Equipment usually have good prices for aftermarket parts - www.offroadeq.com

"Tracksandteeth" have the best price by far for the springs. A little over $500 delivered. I only have really light work for the machine for now. The springs will be renewed before anything major. Thanks.

 

[Nige]

Just got the pucks from HO PENN and got a new safety strut from my local welding shop and she's a beauty. The pucks look easy enough to change from the top. I don't feel like dropping the pan even though it's full of oily dirt. I'll clean out what I can.

I think you're maybe missing a trick there. Apart from being a fire risk if it's full of oily dirt that machine will run way cooler if the belly guards are cleaned out. Also it's often surprising what you find in there, from wrenches dropped by previous mechanics to hydraulic hoses just on the point of popping that otherwise might pop when you're working in 2ft depth of slop. It's a job that nobody like to do, but somebody should always do it. My 2c.

 

[kshansen]

I also would strongly suggest dropping all belly pans and cleaning the bottom. Besides the cooler running if you were to hit something with the guards you stand a good chance of a stone or just hard dirt busting the oil pan or engine or other components. Then when putting pans back one use a good coat of anti-seize on those bolts.

Some day you will need to get in there and fix something and knowing they will come off at that time will make the project less of a problem.

Also be very careful when taking the pans/guards off do not trust any of the bolts to actually be holding. Have a good jack or chains holding them up and have a safe way to lower them. They will be a lot heavier than you might expect the first time!