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Cat 941b resurrection/ Under carriage

Welder Dave

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
12,492
Location
Canada
If you use Loctite 660 it will only dry if the parts are .5mm max. gap. In air it won't dry. I'd guess 2 tubes would be enough and I'd put it on both pieces after making sure they are spotlessly clean. I wouldn't use primer because it lesions the strength. You could use some heat to help it cure faster though. Even a little heater with a tarp to contain the heat would work for a couple hours. A little warm to the touch is all you need and then let it sit another 24 hours to fully cure and have the most strength.
 

charles walton

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2012
Messages
555
Location
Etowah Tennessee
If you use Loctite 660 it will only dry if the parts are .5mm max. gap. In air it won't dry. I'd guess 2 tubes would be enough and I'd put it on both pieces after making sure they are spotlessly clean. I wouldn't use primer because it lesions the strength. You could use some heat to help it cure faster though. Even a little heater with a tarp to contain the heat would work for a couple hours. A little warm to the touch is all you need and then let it sit another 24 hours to fully cure and have the most strength.
I ordered 2x50ml. tubes.
 

Cat977

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2006
Messages
505
Location
Madison WI
Occupation
Machinist/Millwright
You got me Charles. I'd say you bought the threaded rod say 3/4". 4" H-beam x 10' long x 1/4" top and bottom. Now if it was me I'd cut that frame in two and put the block side down to either side and set a big I-bream down the middle, that makes your base. You can set what ever you like on top of it. If you had a few hands or hoist, bolt your jack to another piece of that I-beam you used on the bottom. Figure out your spacing and pin or bolt that to your uprights with the jack pointing down.
Best of Luck
What ever Way you Go!
 

charles walton

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2012
Messages
555
Location
Etowah Tennessee
You got me Charles. I'd say you bought the threaded rod say 3/4". 4" H-beam x 10' long x 1/4" top and bottom. Now if it was me I'd cut that frame in two and put the block side down to either side and set a big I-bream down the middle, that makes your base. You can set what ever you like on top of it. If you had a few hands or hoist, bolt your jack to another piece of that I-beam you used on the bottom. Figure out your spacing and pin or bolt that to your uprights with the jack pointing down.
Best of Luck
What ever Way you Go!
that's a little different than what i have planned. I got it cut out today. I will start welding tomorrow, it will only be 4' long,only big enough for a D-4 size sprocket,maybe a D-5. But I'M sure it's going to work. I'll take a bunch of pictures when I start welding.
 

Cat977

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2006
Messages
505
Location
Madison WI
Occupation
Machinist/Millwright
Way to get busy Charles! Pink's not my favorite color, but pink steel is probably Cheaper! The design holds good promise. I like the extra wide spacing between the beams, you can always use cross beams, if you need to. You won't be bending the I beams. Even 3/4" rods have plenty of strength. If the rods start stretching, it will get easier to pump until they break. Best To stop first because you don't want to have the sprocket bounce back and loosen. Before the Lock Tight dries it will behave like a lubricant. At first the steel to steel press fit is what holds it together, but use the lock nut before you release the jack. The Lock Tit will fill in the voids and add grip when it dries. After you give it 20 tons back off on the jack. Because of the wear on the bore of the sprocket and the possible off center push of the jack. It may be a bit tilted. Then let it sit for a week. Don't use a primer unless you you can get it together in 20-25 min. or less.
 

charles walton

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2012
Messages
555
Location
Etowah Tennessee
IMG_20210703_204024097.jpg IMG_20210703_204024097.jpg
Way to get busy Charles! Pink's not my favorite color, but pink steel is probably Cheaper! The design holds good promise. I like the extra wide spacing between the beams, you can always use cross beams, if you need to. You won't be bending the I beams. Even 3/4" rods have plenty of strength. If the rods start stretching, it will get easier to pump until they break. Best To stop first because you don't want to have the sprocket bounce back and loosen. Before the Lock Tight dries it will behave like a lubricant. At first the steel to steel press fit is what holds it together, but use the lock nut before you release the jack. The Lock Tit will fill in the voids and add grip when it dries. After you give it 20 tons back off on the jack. Because of the wear on the bore of the sprocket and the possible off center push of the jack. It may be a bit tilted. Then let it sit for a week. Don't use a primer unless you you can get it together in 20-25 min. or less.
Well it's done!
 
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charles walton

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2012
Messages
555
Location
Etowah Tennessee
It's on there tight and the sprocket splines are a little bit proud of the hub splines. Pink is not my favorite color either LOL put for 25 cents per pound I'll take it,I might paint it a better color one day if I ever get caught up, it worked great.
 
Last edited:

Cat977

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Joined
Feb 19, 2006
Messages
505
Location
Madison WI
Occupation
Machinist/Millwright
Yea 25 Cents! Pink's looking Good! That nice little ring of Lock Tite on the top means it filled in Good. On the bottom there will be a lot more. If you used primer there will be hardened drips after some time. Looks Good! That cage could come in mighty handy.
It'd be nice if you can hang the jack from the top on a side to side slide. Use it to flatten, bend, some V blocks to straiten shafts. The only Thing the old Press at work had on Yours was it was Tan! LOL...
Good Job
 

charles walton

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2012
Messages
555
Location
Etowah Tennessee
Yea 25 Cents! Pink's looking Good! That nice little ring of Lock Tite on the top means it filled in Good. On the bottom there will be a lot more. If you used primer there will be hardened drips after some time. Looks Good! That cage could come in mighty handy.
It'd be nice if you can hang the jack from the top on a side to side slide. Use it to flatten, bend, some V blocks to straiten shafts. The only Thing the old Press at work had on Yours was it was Tan! LOL...
Good Job
Thanks, the press will definitly be used again.
 

charles walton

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2012
Messages
555
Location
Etowah Tennessee
I'm trying to put my final drive back on and it feels really tight, hard to pull it up and I was wondering if there is some good tricks to make sure the pinion race is going into the bearing.
 
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