charles walton
Senior Member
I just can't bring myself to pay $800 for a used sprocket. I know of a couple of parts tractors with complete finals for not a whole lot, $3000.
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Cat 941b resurrection/ Under carriage
- Thread starter charles walton
- Start date
Cat977
Senior Member
Can you take a close up picture of the splines on the hub and the drivers/backside of the sprocket. What I'm looking for is where the damage stops and you see undamaged right next to it.
charles walton
Senior Member
charles walton
Senior Member
Cat977
Senior Member
Things don't Look too bad. The hub looks like it has the most wear. It would help to have more pictures with different types of lighting and angles. Try setting up a trouble light and turning off the flash. Take some pictures of the other side of the sprocket splines. Take some pictures of the rails and bushings. You might have to use multiple posts to fit the pictures in. The undercarriage parts wear into each other. Changing one piece and not all could upset the apple cart.
charles walton
Senior Member
Right, I just showed the hub so you can see the wear, it won't be used. Nothing will change on the track system at this time. I have 200-300 hours left before the bushings wear through I think so I am going to run it and then scrap them and get a new set of SALT. I hate dry tracks.
charles walton
Senior Member
Wanted to make sure I am comprehending this correctly. Is this saying that the sprocket should go past flush of the hub splines by .06-.18 or am I backwards.
Cat977
Senior Member
This is a place to have a good picture of what they want. It could could be pushed past or sticking out. It has a range of .12 or like say 1/8". If you assemble the 2 pieces together by hand with a gentle wack with a deadblow is the shoulder in or out? The splines on the sprocket are distorted by running loose and may cause the hub not to go in as far as it should or it may go in too far. Using the layout dye can tell you where the 2 pieces are hitting each other. Using new pieces against worn pieces is a tricky business. But sometimes you just have to do the best you can under mitigating circumstances. Let me remind you this is not doing things "By the Book" and a good outcome is not promised.
Best of Luck
Best of Luck
charles walton
Senior Member
I understand, I coated the sprocket with dycum and slid them together,didnot hit it because getting them apart is a problem with my wife helping me lift the sprocket, it looked like its matching ok. I posted a pic last week trying to show that the sprocket does not slide all the way down before it gets tight. It has about a 1/4-1/2" before flush. I intend to put a good coat of retainer on both parts and slide it together and then smack it down to as close to flush as I can get. I will post some picks later of how I am blocking up the hub,gear and case and how I will protect the cther end of the hub while I hit it.
Your backwards the The sprocket should be proud after pressing it and unless you press it it won't stay tight.
Bob
charles walton
Senior Member
I don't believe it will get tight and still be proud, I realize that it needs to be pressed on but there's nowhere around here that I know of that does it except the dealership and I don't want to spend the money that they would have to have because they want to sell all new parts to put it together. I gave $9500 for the tractor and it would probably cost half that amount for them to assemble the FD.
Cat977
Senior Member
On June 12 I think I thought there was supposed to be a picture of the 2 together but I never saw a picture. Bob's right about the need to press them together. The Loctite can help to hold them together and fill up any gaps. On straight splines the Locktite probably would hold fine, depending.... On a taper it wants to come apart. In a way you are expanding the sprocket and shrinking the hub. Think of it like wood and glue the glue won't work without a tight joint. If you put Locktite on the pieces, the pieces might not even touch each other. You "Need" to press them together to squeeze out the excess Locktite, almost like gluing 2 boards together using clamps. But you need to go even further. You need the hub and the sprocket to always clamp each other together. Wood has pores/grain/imperfections/growth rings for the glue to mate them together. When the glue drys you can take the clamps off, jobs done. Steel has micro pores, ect.....,but not enough. You have to leave the clamps on, or the Locktite won't help you. Changes of temperature, fibration, running back and forth will cause the tapered splines to loosen up. Once they loosen even a little the whole thing is loose. That is not true for a straight shaft. I have to go right now but I thought I was thinking before about using your jack to put it back together.
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charles walton
Senior Member
Yes,I thought about doing it with the jack and I might try it but the only thing I have to press against is the bottom of my bucket on the loader and the VERY MOST I could hope for there would be 10-12 tons of resistence. I was thinking of driving it on with a big hammer and a tube that fits over the hub and will contact the sprocket. I know neither one is ideal but I'm going to try one or the other tommorow. The picture I thought I sent is not on here now,I will check my camera and see if I still have it.
Cat977
Senior Member
I used taper pins a lot when positioning big machines at the Power Plant. I would use totally clean nickel based Never Seize on them. Most people put them in dry. Dry is fast and solid. After a while.... though rusted in solid. Sooooooooo.... When installing the pins the Never Seize would be thinned with medium weight oil. You could hit them all day and they would just bounce back at you, hit 'em hard enough and they’ll bounce right out of the hole. Turn and push them to get the excess out of this really thin paste and then easy hits like a heavy dead hit that just drops on the pin. Quick raps won't work at least not as quickly.
You will probably have to press your pieces together I think. Also you must fully press them before the Locktite starts hardening. You need a good setup or some extra hands. I have never seen the progress pictures. It would be best to set it up as to get a full press.
You will probably have to press your pieces together I think. Also you must fully press them before the Locktite starts hardening. You need a good setup or some extra hands. I have never seen the progress pictures. It would be best to set it up as to get a full press.
charles walton
Senior Member
The best that I can do with the jack is setting it up and pressing against the bottom of the bucket on my loader until it starts lifting the front of the tractor but I don't know if that would be enough to do it.
I have some plans going on in my head for building a press for the next time but it will take a while to get the material together.
Cat977
Senior Member
I should look back at some of the pictures...... What about using the nut......... Can you set the unit on an I beam, then the FD. then jack, then chain the beam to the bucket.
Trouble would be the bore of the hub may shrink too much.
Trouble would be the bore of the hub may shrink too much.
charles walton
Senior Member
I think I will build a cage to work as a press with my jack,I have it pictured in mt head now. It will take another week or so to get the materials to build it and assemle it but I am confident that it will work.
charles walton
Senior Member
How far do you think the sprocket will travel inward from the point where it begins to tighten and stops moving by hand once I start to press it on with the setup I'm planning to build next week? I only have about 1/4-3/8" before the splines are flush. I wish I had a new sprocket but I can't get one.
charles walton
Senior Member
I'm going to order some 660, I found it on e-bay. How much do you think I should order for this fit? Thanks for the advice,I was in a hurry before and I'm hard headed and just didn't read everything correctly about the properties of these compounds. Now I'm slowing down and rethinking everything before I try to assemble the parts.